Отзывы о Wi-Fi роутер Cisco SRP521W-U

У меня железка самого первого выпыска версия 1.0 привезена из сша, за полтора года ни одного зависания! исключительно рекомендую, очень надежен, настраивается через web интерфейс...

Очень хороший роутер,в течении года никаких глюков,сразу устанавливается...

Никакого Cloud он не требует (по крайней мере пока),...

Устройство фактически без конкурентов, брал за топовые характеристики, ценю за то,что они таки соответствуют заявленным. В работе не перегревается, не нужно прятать его от глаз т.к. он классически красивый и подойдет большинству, в общем очень достойное устройство и по сей день я не нашел лучше по характеристикам.

Брал из-за того, что мой провайдер раздает каналы 250мб/сек, WAN себя оправдал полностью, скачка проходит на скорости 25-30 мегабайт в секунду, но в качестве бонуса получил большую по сравнению с предыдущей точкой доступа зону покрытия, мощность сигнала и интуитивный интерфейс. Минусом для меня стало отсутствие в модельном ряду модели с глянцевым покрытием, эта матовая и для меня это минус.

Бест бай как говорят америкосы, все в одном, iptv, внешний диск, еще sip шлюз подключил и он стал единым коммуникационным узлом.

Отличная железка, только в последнее...

возможно какие недостатки ПО

<промежуток класс="">переход от в Linksys беспроводной маршрутизатор E2500 в моей небольшой квартире для этого RV215W был большой выбор. Мой широкополосные скорости удвоились, Netflix содержание гораздо острее, плюс теперь у меня есть мелкозернистой контроля за моего интернет-соединения и устройства. Он теряет 1 звезду так дешево и сердито, учитывая цену я заплатил и конкурент качественный маршрутизатор в том же ценовом диапазоне.

<промежуток класс="">используется для волокна инсталяция. Работает хорошо. Никаких жалоб на

I have been operating the V2 for about three weeks now (Firmware version 2.0.26.124551). I've been able to "real-world" compare this router in my home with two other excellent dual band wireless routers: the Asus NT-R56U and the Apple Time Capsule, 3rd Generation. I give the V2 five stars because this router delivers the best consistent range and performance in my "heavy wireless device usage home" than any other router I have owned.Pros:Setup: Set up in minutes with the included setup disk--I chose to skip the disk and setup via the browser on my iMac. (Both approaches = 3-4 minutes)Future Proof: Supports IPv6, dual band 5Ghz/2.4Ghz, supports up to 450 Mbps on the 2.4/5 Ghz bandPowerful: Range and throughput in my house exceeded both the Asus NT-R56U and the Apple Time Capsule 3rd Generation. E.g. 5-7 Mbps vs 25+ Mbs at the most distant areas of my house from the routerLoad Testing: Exceeded range and performance ( significantly) of the R56U and the TC 3rd Gen during multiple device/heavy use streaming, gaming, computer, iPad connections in my houseConsistent: I haven't run into any performance issues whatsoever with the e4200 V2 after 3+ weeks of continuous operationCisco Connect Express: This is a great app for your iPhone/iPad/Android device to monitor and manage your Cisco Home Network ( Very similar to the Apple Airport Utility app)Editors Choice: Both CNET and PC Magazine awarded the e4200 V2 their "Editors Choice" 2011Cons:Runs very warm: Maybe some will call it "hot"--I haven't experienced any issues yet ( that I know of) but it does run warmer than any other wireless router I have ownedExpensive: The Asus Nt-R56U ( another very fast dual band router) might be a better value especially for smaller spaces ( compared to current V1 or V2 list prices)450Mbps: According to the recent professional reviews you need a 450MBps capable wireless client to experience the "maximum" range and performance from this router (None of my current wireless devices are 450Mbps capable so the max speed I could get was up to 300 Mbps when in very close proximity to the e4200 V2) So if you don't experience "advertised" performance it may be due to your own wireless clients5Ghz;short range: The 5Ghz band does not have anywhere near the range of the 2.4ghz band--but I think is the same for most current wireless routers. (If your wireless devices are located more than one or two rooms away from the router use the 2.4Ghz band)Professional Reviews:See helpful e4200 V2 professional reviews on:-cnet.com-pcmag.com-smallnetbuilder.comFor those of you looking for settings for your wireless router to maximize your router's performance in a Home environment try these:Set Security to "WPA2-Personal" and Channel to "Auto" for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. Channel Width for the 2.4Ghz band should be set to "20Mhz Only" and 5Ghz should be set to "40Mhz Only". Network mode should be set to "N-Only" for both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. **Note: if you have older wireless devices that only use wireless a,b,or g, then set the 2.4Ghz to "mixed" Network Mode else these devices will not connect to the N-Only network.Update 1/12/2012:Apparently there is a recently discovered security issue with most routers that offer WPS ( Wi-Fi Protected Setup) to include the e4200 V2. Until a fix is released by the manufacturers, its probably a good idea to frequently monitor your networks "connected devices" for potential unknown/unwanted visitors. You can always restrict access to unwanted devices by enabling Parental Controls under Access Restrictions/Parental Controls/Target DevicesIf your e4200 V2 is running too warm, try turning off the port lights on the back of the router under Setup(Tab)/Basic Setup/then scroll down to bottom of page and set Port Lights to off. (I ended up putting something under the router to lift it up about two inches to increase the airflow under the unit--this resulted in a much cooler continuous operating temperature .Update March 6, 2012:Firmware Version: 2.0.36.126507The e4200 V2 has been pretty much a "set it and forget it" experience for me since I set it up. I haven't experienced any operational issues at all and was pleased to discover that the router also has an automated firmware update feature--so I don't even have to worry about making sure my router has the latest firmware since it updates itself. ( I think this is a default setting--but you can check for the same ( or you can turn off this feature) under the main Administration tab: Administration/Firmware Upgrade/then select On-Line Upgrade and then select Upgrade Automatically) From the same menu, you can also use the "Restore Previous Firmware" feature if you experience any issues with any of the new firmware updates.Update August 3, 2012:Firmware Ver.2.1.38.138880 Cisco Connect Cloud FirmwareThere continue to be a lot of additions to the Cisco wireless home router model line since I purchased my e4200 V2 only 8 months ago. However, and most importantly I am

(Review updated 06/20/11 to add details concerning firmware version 1.0.02 and USB printer support with the E4200 router. Please see the end of the review for that update.)I networked my home long before wireless routers were even available (or affordable) for home users, using Ethernet back then and moving to wireless as soon as it was available for home use. Throughout the years, I've almost always used Linksys routers, and the few times I've tried other brands, I was soon sorry and switched back to Linksys. I won't say I've always had perfect experiences with this manufacturer, but my overall experience with them has been very good enough to position Linksys as a name I trust.When I saw the feature set for the new Cisco-Linksys E4200 router, I was more than intrigued, particularly by the dual-band feature and the potential speeds it boasts.As it turns out, only one of the wireless adapters I already owned supported the 5 GHz band, and it was the internal NIC on one of my computers. In order to fully test the Linksys E4200, I bought one Cisco-Linksys AE1000 High-Performance Wireless-N Adapter and connected it to each of my computers to test it with the new router.The dual-band feature by default uses the same SSID for both the 2.4 GHz band and the 5 GHz band. This allows a wireless adapter to seamlessly connect to whichever of those bands it can, but doesn't help if you want to force certain wireless devices to connect using the 5 GHz band, which is potentially faster. Fortunately, you can manually name the two wireless bands with different SSIDs, and simply connect your devices that support 5 GHz bands to the SSID for that band.Before I progress, I should state that I live in a three story townhouse, and I placed the router as centrally as possible, in the den on the second floor. I use the den as my office, and I have a good spot for wireless routers that has no reflective surfaces near it, nor any other items that might interfere with the wireless signal.The living room is just down the hall from the den, and there are no doors in between the two rooms. I get a fantastic signal using the 5 GHz band when I am anywhere on the second floor, whether using my laptop's internal wireless adapter or the AE1000 USB adapter that I bought. I connected the AE1000 on my desktop PC, my laptop, and my netbook and each enjoys speeds of 300 Mbps when using the 5 GHz band on the second floor. However, when I use the 5 GHz band with the same laptop and netbook and the same wireless adapters on the third floor, the signal is weak and the speeds jump wildly from 13.5 Mbps to 300 Mbps, with the 300 Mbps being a rarity upstairs.Conversely, when I connect to the E4200 router using its 2.4 GHz band, the signal is strong on every floor and in every room and the speed is stable rather than erratic. I find that the 2.4 GHz band connects my devices with speeds on par with my older wireless routers - 65 Mbps to 130 Mbps, depending on which wireless adapter I use.The configuration itself is very easy and users who run the setup disk to configure it will find themselves with a basic, mostly secure network. There are some things I don't like about the Cisco Connect software that runs the setup, but I'll get to that a bit later.For more experienced users with more advanced needs, the advanced configuration is where you'll spend more of your time, if not all. This is where you can set additional levels of security, name the two wireless networks and the guest network with different SSIDs, manage connected storage devices, and more.I prefer to not rely on only WPA encryption for my wireless security. In addition, I employ MAC address filtering, don't broadcast my SSID, and I limit the number of DHCP connections to the number of devices I need to use on my network. For those who don't know, a MAC address is the unique identifier for a network device. Every network device has one, and no two devices use the same MAC address. I set the filtering to only allow devices with a MAC address I've specifically allowed to connect. Even if someone were to break the code on my wireless connection, they would also have to have a MAC address that is permitted on my network. On top of that, since I don't broadcast my SSID, no one can see it, even if they are in range. You have to know the name of my SSID to manually configure it, or you must have access to the router to use the Wi-Fi Protected Setup button. You can also use the Easy Setup Key if you choose to create one, but we'll get to that a bit later.I have a number of devices that I regularly connect to my network, some wired, some wireless. All were easy to configure and connect. Some I connected using the Wi-Fi Protected Setup button, others using the Easy Setup Key, and still others I connected by manually entering the wireless network information. These devices include: two TiVo Premieres with Wireless N adapters, TiVo Series 2 with a Wireless G adapter, desktop PC with an Ethernet port and a w

*** It took me 6 weeks to find all the following out ***1. Comcast doesn't tailor it's installation of XFinity to any existing setup ... unless YOU KNOW TO ASK THEM and you pay about $250.00. When they set me up, they showed me the menu coming off my bluRay and said all is copasetic. I asked why I didn't have a router near my home theatre. They said they now bundle it with the modem. HAD I know this meant that w/o a phone line really close to my home theatre, I couldn't stream video and have a working landline simultaneously. They assured me everything was working. My bad for not actually trying to stream my NetFlix in. By the end of day 2, I called Comcast to find out why I couldn't stream in NetFlix. They assured me their wireless router works fine but if you want more technical information about frequency settings, etc., you have to pay $129.99 for an outsourced service (geez - even to answer the question of what kind of authorization they use employ).2. Sony assured me that this wireless bridge was what I needed for my model BluRay. I followed the installation to a T and it didn't work. I spent 3 hours on the phone with a Level 1 Sony technician, then 4 hours on the phone with a Level 2 Sony technician with a MS Electrical Engineer. We verified download speeds w/ and w/o correction - OK. He told me he couldn't spend any more time on this and said I needed to isolate the wireless router and directly plug it in to the BluRay to see if it was the BluRay. I set everything up and called back about 5 days later. Why did I wait? Because I had to go to work to pay for the non-functional Wireless Bridge. We verified the Sony BluRay by bringing over the router/modem (now with no phone since it needs a phone line). It all worked.3. I called up CISCO. They conveyed an attitude of disgust at having to deign to talk with someone who bought the bridge from someone other that CISCO. We turned of my laptop's wireless, plugged in the bridge and successfully used the bridge to communicate with the router/modem in the other room. CISCO said it wasn't their problem because obviously the bridge works fine.4. About 6 weeks went by trying to call all these folks (more than once each) to diagnose the problem. When I called Amazon back to return it. They said I had exceeded the 30 day return period.I'm sick about this. I figure the $60 purchase price + at least 20 hours of my time = $3060. I did break down and cry a couple of times and practice primal scream therapy at the multiple individuals that asked their fault tree of questions w/o deep knowledge.Anyone want a free wireless?

5-star product! Utter "Hell" (1-star, if none at all) for set-up!Folks, I hope you have better luck with your set-up - and I hope my experience was an anomaly!My Provider: Comcast (Harris County, TX) - very good service and signal strength for my area. Typical hang-ups during the weekday hours of 6Pm to 8PM. Over all, very pleased with Comcast.Modem: New high-speed Motorola 2010 model year, installed November 2010. This new modem is to compensate Comcast's broadband speed improvement/upgrade in early 2010. This modem was an improvement from the older modem, 2006 version. Noticeable Wi-Fi sped on my old Netgear G-router, about 2x.Replacing Old Router: Netgear RangeMax VPN v2, single band G. I had no problem with this router - my thought was - with a new upgraded/improved modem, I would benefit with a duel-band N-band.So here goes...530PM: I unplugged my old Netgear and replaced with the new E3000. I followed the USER FRIENDLY (my arse!) guide using my Mac as the installation platform. During the installation, the Mac indicated that it was NOT picking up the router signal. Of course, I tried again... and again... nothing. Confusion set it (we've all been there!) - the dreaded `personal doubt on one's ability to perform a USER FRIENDLY task' began to rear its' ugly head. I consulted the Linksys website - with (of course no answer) and no 1-800 technical support (keep reading)...600PM: I set the Mac aside - now using my Sony Vaio (the dreaded Windows product!) as the installation platform, no difference! Not pick up a router signal! My mental thought pattern was now looping the initials "WTF" again and again... and again! I performed this task repeatedly on the Sony several times causing elevated depression and anger (the proverbial first to steps of grief DABDA) - and I'm sure a spike in blood pressure.620PM: I have now given up! I disconnected the E3000 and reinstalled the old Netgear RangMax. A new problem! Now what? Both laptops were not picking up any signal from the Router. Again, looping initials "WTF", etc! I hard wired (Ethernet cable) from the Motorola Modem to the Sony. Yes! Internet still works - but no Wi-Fi.630PM: Thoughts of the moniker USER FRIENDLY, now a figment of someone's imagination. I contacted Comcast, and a very kind `American', English-speaking Houstonian (in fact) helped me out. "Kudos" to Comcast's training - because this young lady was very (1) patient with me and (2) technically proficient. Apparently the new Motorola Modem is finicky when unplugging the existing router and installing a router - in this case the E3000. She circumvented the issue by `pinging' my Modem using a re-set function (2-3 minutes). Now, my Netgear (old router) works again. Images of retuning the E3000 was now introduced to semi-logical sequence of thought. We then tried the new E3000 set-up. Verdict: Nothing! No signal from the new router. Now about this time, thoughts of (1) returning to the Amazon site, (2) printing out the return package UPS form and (3) driving past the UPS store to drop off the package - was about to be introduced to my `things to do list'. Just about the time I was going to hang up with the Comcast agent, I asked her for the Linksys 800, if indeed she had it. And she did! So (readers of this blog - get your paper and pencil ready) the technical support for Linksys is 800-326-7114. This is not available in the Linksys website. Again, Kudos to Comcast.720PM: I called Linksys (on hold for a mere 5-minutes). During this holding period, thoughts of a dreaded Bollywood sounding technical support person kept me on edge. The person who actually answered the call was a very good, English speaking Filipina. Again, luck was on my side today: She was patient and technically proficient. The culprit to this (going on 2-hour) fiasco was the IP address. Apparently, disconnecting the Old Router from the finicky Modem re-initialized the IP address. Why? Who knows? "Death to the firmware architect"! Using the Mac as the install platform, we hard-wired the Ethernet cable from Modem-to-Router and Router-to-Mac. Using the Safari web browser, I typed in the IP address (Mac: found in Settings, internet access). The address was a back-door to the E3000 firmware. This sounds complicated. And Yes... it is complicated! At this point I'm just following orders - similar to me commanding my dog to `sit'! NOTE: this was NOT in the USER FRIENDLY instructions.820PM: After running the gambit and going to the gyrations (I'm not going write the details on this one) my Mac finally picked up the router. She stayed on the line as I performed the set-up, etc. I also tried the signal on the Sony. Yippee! Wi-Fi once more! Overall speed (none to quantify) was noticeably much better going from G to N-band.LESSONS LEARNED: (1) Have the phone number of your internet provider and (2) Linksys on hand during set-up, just in case. You never know! Here's the Linksys number

The ease of setup of the Cisco-Linksys E3000 router astonished me! I had a studio and household FILLED with multiple PC's and Macs, both desktop and notebook computers, and a PC server plus Mac G5 server for my AppleTV Library, iTunes Library, and this router self-configured itself with each and every computer/device/system that I own, some 12 machines in total, in less than 7 minutes for the full cycle of the auto-connect feature to take place.That FLOORED me totally, and I'm an advanced networking expert, who was prepared for a completely tough, manual install of this router but figured I'd give it a go with the Auto-Connect Feature of this router, by simply inserting the Cisco-Linksys CD ROM into my PC server's optical drive, and followed the prompts to the letter (to a point), let the router Auto-Configure each and every PC and Mac in my mixed-stable of computers here in my studio and throughout the house, 8 computers here in my studio near the router's plug-in to my Time-Warner RoadRunner HS Turbo Modem, and 4 other computers elsewhere in the house, and I'll be danged if the new E3000 didn't pull off the complete connection routing in less than 7 minutes actual time! CRAZY GOOD!I immediately fired up the router's web interface and went into the Advanced settings, and renamed the System from default to my regular/normal System's name, set up the web interface for my network Hard Drive and plugged in a 1TB USB external HD for network sharing and backup services, reconfigured the password to my rather complex 26-digit and symbol password for ultimate security purposes, set the "renew DHCP Lease" to my own specific schedule apart from default, adjusted Media and FTP Server setting to active, and a lot of other "host services" to manual settings vs the default settings, and in less than 30 minutes total time I disconnected my former "N-Spec" router, and turned the duties over to the new E3000.Suffice to say it's been literally plug and play since then, with only a minor glitch to report, and that was perhaps my own fault but it involved updating the firmware to the latest and greatest, and my update went awry somewhat...I ended up having to re-apply the new patch TWICE before it took and set up correctly, and BAM!! All was well again, settings were intact, and when I restarted the System it fired right up, everything popped up green, blue, and yellow LED's like it's supposed to do, and voila! Firmware update a success, all was well, and the system @ 100%.The Dual-Band aspect of this router gives it a special character, with the ability to transmit and receive signals and data simultaneously, at the same time literally, and maintain its incredible bandwidth in both the 2.4Ghz and 5.8Ghz channels without fault of any sort, and that's an amazing feature! My AppleTV system works significantly better than it did with the old MaxPower N-Spec Routerat full speed ahead, it being a single-band router and some 5 years old at the time I replaced it with the E3000.I find the web interface to be simple, and simplistic too, a nice interaction to work with when you want to customize any features, or change any settings manually vs the router's automatic setups. I have yet to have to restart or "recycle" this router after some 5 months of use thus far, which I consider to be very, very unusual given the nature of routers in general, but the Cisco-Linksys E3000 seems to be in a class by itself with respect to sustainability. It is also a router that you can place ANYWHERE with respect to its antennas being all internal (6 of them!), as I have placed it UNDER MY WORK STATION now, and there's no difference in the signal being all-pervasive and strong throughout my studio, and home to boot!I also use the router to handle the Administration of my twin RAID system's web interface, and that uses one of the Gigabit Ethernet Ports of the E3000 and plugs directly into the Areca 1680IX-8 Hardware RAID Controller, and that feature of the router has also worked without fail thus far, no issues at all! I have searched and tried to figure out S*O*M*E* weakness that this new E3000 router has, but alas there is nothing left to write or say with respect to things that are wrong with it, because the dang thing just works 100% for the good!Every day that I use my system here in the studio and throughout my home I marvel at its consistency, it steadfastness, and its power, just incredible in all those aspects of use with my heavy, heavy needs placed upon it, and it's just fantastic. It would be hard to say "it could be better", because I just don't know HOW or WHAT we could do so as to make it better than it is right now.I am transmitting millions and millions of bytes of critical information up to Standford University in the Folding@Home program, with 5 active computers in the program here in my home and studio, and it's IMPORTANT that each and every byte gets transmitted up there for the benefit of mankind, and the critical research that th

Well, all the reviews are correct. The 5* and the 1*. An absolute nightmare of a product, nightmare of setup, and nightmare of Cisco support. There was no instruction manual, on the CD. The Cisco Connect software was hit or miss, it always assumes that you are starting right out of the box, so in effect it only works (partially) the first install or after you have to reset the device (and trust me you will have to reset the device). After 6 hours over 2 successive days I have managed to get it going and after several runs at Tech Support. All features work but not all the time. And yes, I did install two firmware upgrades (you cannot do a thing with either of the older firmware nor the original level from the factory). My advice, avoid the product. I am considering after 48 hours going back to my old D-Link.In summary.....you can get it to work. It will reboot once and awhile. Signal for the high end A or N is poor if any more than a few feet, though the B or G signal may be better than other regular G. The claim to be HIGH PERFORMANCE is a joke unless you are running a wired setup or exclusively 2.4Ghz wireless and running everything on G. Signal range is very weak and worse than most older G, Extreme-G routers. Signal range for the N supprot on the router at 5.0 Ghz is VERY VERY VERY POOR....range of a few feet, certainly no more than 40 feet open space or 20 feet with walls and doors.The only way to make some progress is to do the following:1.) open box, run CD, install the device to your cable/DSL modem, power on unit and connect to your 'install' computer via CAT5 cable. You might get lucky and get wireless to work off the initial power on but good luck2.) immediately get to the router administration function via hard wire network connection via CAT5 and bring up router control panel in a browser via //192.168.1.1 and try use the USERID: admin and PASSWORD: admin to immediately upgrade firmware3.) once firmware upgrade complete (assuming you have it on your computer already or get lucky and the out-of-the-box config works), you can start to do the ADVANCED OPTIONS 'tuning' to get something going.4.) Using ADVANCED ADMINISTRATION (192.168.1.1 and ADMIN/ADMIN for userid and password) you can start to try some settings to get things to work5.) try click on Applications and Gaming Tab thenClick on the sub tab QoS thenDisable WMM support thenClick on save settings thenwait 4-5 minutes for browser to respond with SAVED setings and return to administrations screen(This course of action Disables the Windows Multimedia protocols but ou can still use the USB storage for music, etc.)6.) set up security as you like, recommend WPA2-PERSONAL for all systems7.) recommend setting up (2) different SSIDs for your 2.4Ghz signal and another for your 5.0Ghz signal so if you have extended issues you can figure out where things might have gone wrong. I will suggest most of the issues with the E3000 (other than the CISCO CONNECT software for adminstration) is the 5.0 and N support..........2.4Ghz and G support seems to work well enough8.) In the Advanced Administration, try to change the CHANNELS for each of your SSIDs to Channel 161 for N or A/N or mixed A/N and the same for B/G or mixed or G to Channel 9 om order to maximize signal range and strength....you might have to experiment with Channels for best results in your home/office.....you can wait the 4-5 minutes for saving of the settings each on e you want to try.9.) if you decide to use the USB storage, do not hook anthing up until you have gottent he router to function as best ou could, then install the USB into the back panel. Once you do that chances are that your router will stopp sending signals or reboot. You may have to rediscover the SSIDs on your computers and any other wireless devices (printer, iPod Touch, etc.) after you install the USB storage. the Router may even reboot.....I recommended that after a few minutes after the USB stoarge is attached and you restart the router and redicsover the network on each computer/device that you reboot the router again to ensure it picks up all setting changes and recognizes the USB storage.If you have only basic WINDOWS XP, Vista or Windows 7 skills, chances are you will be very frustrated with getting the router to get going and use of the functions....or pay Best Buy to get it going and make sure they config all the functions.If you do not need multi-channel, dual band or the SUB storage..........buy the CISCO 1000 for 60% less or get a D-LINK 655.in summary....N is poor, G is okay, USB storage is a challenge, you need to do some netork adminstration to get things working.........if none of this is okay, buy an older D-Link 655or a more basic CISCO E1000 or wait until a router manufacturer has all the bugs worked out for dual band and better signals for N(middle of 2011?). Remember this router has no external antennas and the range suffers for N beacuse there are no antennas.