Отзывы о Wi-Fi роутер D-Link DIR-815/S

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Скорость держит! =)

Полностью согласен со сказанным выше ! Не рекомендую ....

In my capacity as IT admin, general geek, and most importantly family tech support rep, I make lots of recommendations for tech purchasing. So when both my parents and myself needed new routers to replace aging 802.11g routers, I went to work researching. Long story short -- this router from Dlink, the 605L, is extremely reliable and has excellent range, which are the most important criteria for home users.Solid routers are notoriously difficult to find/recommend. You may have noticed that even the highest-rated routers on Amazon (such as the Cisco-Linksys e4200v2 and the Asus Dark Knight n66u) both have as many as 15-30% 1 and 2-star reviews! Why is there so much divergence in opinion? For one, networking equipment performance varies depending on location installed, and the experience of the installer. Choosing the right place to put the router, upgrading to the most stable firmware, and choosing the right channel/band/bandwidth are just as important as the device itself.In my personal research I narrowed the field down to 4 models: two expensive, feature-rich models (the above-mentioned linksys and asus), capable of hard-drive/printer sharing, gigabit switch ports, and three-stream dual-band operation for maximum bandwidth, and two inexpensive but reliable, stable, and easily configured models (this model, Dlink 605L, and the linksys-cisco e3200). If the advanced features I just mentioned don't interest you, the cheaper models are all you need -- and at less than forty dollars, the 605L (this router) is a clear winner. (What about dual-band 2.4/5Ghz vs single-band 2.4Ghz operation of this router? In most locations, even though there is more traffic on the 2.4ghz band, it usually has better range. Bandwidth on the 5ghz channel tends to be higher but only at close to medium range. For most, 2.4ghz works just fine and supports the most devices.)I settled on the 605L and bought it two weeks ago, setting it up in a relatively central location in a medium-sized single story house. In that time it has operated reliably with zero connection drops or required resets since I plugged it in 2 weeks ago, which is a remarkable feat in and of itself. Also, it has excellent range; I would estimate the wireless range is in the 65-75th percentile for home routers and is comparable to the range of most $60-80 routers. My parents' furthest device is about 40 feet away with 4 walls in between, and it gets about 50% signal which is enough for ~50Mbit of bandwidth (half of what you get when you plug in to the 100Mbit ports on back of the router, of which there are 4). Since most home internet connections are less than 25Mbit, this is more than sufficient for 99% of people who might consider this router. From the same location, I was able to do a file transfer between two computers (the other plugged into the router directly) at a rate of 1GB/2.5 min, which is reasonably fast (about 7-11MB/s).Most important for novices is the easy setup interface. After plugging the device into your modem and a computer for initial setup with ethernet cables, typing in 192.168.0.1 takes you right to the web-based setup interface (admin/). You start with the simple setup wizard -- allowing you to set up your basic ISP settings and your desired WiFi name/password -- and for most people this is all they will need to setup and the router's default settings will take care of the rest. For advanced users, the manual settings provide a lot of additional control, such as parental controls, access lists, firewall tweaking, 40mhz band option, QoS settings, etc. But both routers I purchased were connected to the internet and all devices (asus laptop, mac mini, smart tv, roku, ipad, printer) with the basic setup option within 5 minutes.The 'cloud' features allow you to view/block connected devices and reboot the router from a website (mydlink.com), as well as seeing your current internet bandwidth use (an instantaneous poll of your current use -- not cumulative use). Handy for family techs.For its reliability, range, and simplicity, this is an excellent choice. (Other options under a hundred dollars to consider might be the linksys-cisco e3200 and apple's 2012 model airport express.Feel free to ask questions in comments.Tech specs:CPU: Realtek RTL8196C 5 port 10/100 switch & 32 bit RISC CPU SoCSwitch: Realtek RTL8196CRAM: 32 MBFlash: 4 MBRadio: Realtek RTL8192CE 802.11b/g/n 2T2R WLAN SoC------------An update, 7-nov-2012:I have been running this router since purchase months ago without restarting once due to connection issue! This is a small miracle. I continue to highly recommend this router, esp now.Competitive update:Asus has announced a soon to be available router, model RT-N12HP (google search if curious) that has huge 9dBi amplified antennas specifically designed for implementations where maximum range is required. If you have a largish area to cover, this router might be a better choice, though the release date hasn't been anno

I think if I had purchased this as my first or only router, it would have worked great right out of the box. So if you are buying a router for the first time, please don't hesitate to buy this. However, if you already have a firewall router that runs DHCP, and you want to add this as a wireless-N access point, then it might be a bit challenging. D-link includes only a "Quick Install Guide", and no other documentation. Their website is (in my opinion) very hard to navigate, so I resorted to google to find instructions on how to configure this as a wireless access point. Here's the info I found (pay particular attention to step 7):If you are connecting the D-Link router to another router to use as a wireless access point and/or switch, you will have to do the following before connecting the router to your network:• Disable UPnP• Disable DHCP• Change the LAN IP address to an available address on your network. The LAN ports on the router cannot accept a DHCP address from your other router.To connect to another router, please follow the steps below:1. Plug the power into the router. Connect one of your computers to the router (LAN port) using an Ethernet cable. Make sure your IP address on the computer is 192.168.0.xxx (where xxx is between 2 and 254). Please see the Networking Basics section for more information. If you need to change the settings, write down your existing settings before making any changes. In most cases, your computer should be set to receive an IP address automatically in which case you will not have to do anything to your computer.2. Open a web browser and enter [...] and press Enter. When the login window appears, set the user name to Admin and leave the password XXX empty. Click Log In to continue.3. Click on Advanced and then click Advanced Network. Uncheck the Enable UPnP checkbox. Click Save Settings to continue.4. Click Setup and then click Network Settings. Uncheck the Enable DHCP Server server checkbox. Click Save Settings to continue.5. Under Router Settings, enter an available IP address and the subnet mask of your network. Click Save Settings to save your settings. Use this new IP address to access the configuration utility of the router in the future. Close the browser and change your computer’s IP settings back to the original values as in Step 1.6. Disconnect the Ethernet cable from the router and reconnect your computer to your network.7. Connect an Ethernet cable in one of the LAN ports of the router and connect it to your other router. Do not plug anything into the Internet port of the D-Link router.8. You may now use the other 3 LAN ports to connect other Ethernet devices and computers. To configure your wireless network, open a web browser and enter the IP address you assigned to the router. Refer to the Configuration and Wireless Security sections for more information on setting up your wireless network.Hope this helps! The router is now working great as a wireless access point.

Swapped this D-Link out from the "old reliable" Linksys WRT54G router. That particular model had seen its age and I wanted to "update" my wireless network a little. Setup is pretty straight forward, if you have set up a router before using the gateway ip address, setting up your security (I suggest wpa2, not WEP) setting your broadcast SSID and a few other things are straight forward.As I'm currently enrolled in Comptia's Network+ Certification program, I've become a little more invested in customizing my network for increased security, connection and making use of all those other tabs no one uses on a consumer level.. The first problem with the DIR-635 had to do with my PCI wireless adapter. As soon as I booted up the router, I connected two laptops around 4 years old to the wireless without any problems, then, my PCI adapter would "see" the signal but could not complete a "handshake". It's fine, I invested in a USB LinkSyS Wireless adapter (I hate USB dongles but, never the less).After thirty minutes I was connected to the d-link and networking away. Connected a brother 2270DW printer with ease and shared it on the network. Soon, I noticed significant drops between my wireless adapter and the router. I checked my phone (HTC Inspire)did not lose signal at all. Hmmm..I ran a few tests, reinstalled the wireless usb dongle and it's still dropping. So, this could be a fault of either A)the usb dongle software b)my USB ports on my motherboard(which I doubt, I tested other devices successfully) or C)the USB dongle itself.A brief mention, I HATE usb dongles of any sort. While you're getting about the same "speed" of a hard wired or otherwise built in radio of laptops and desktops, using a USB dongle is an inefficient means of getting the best signal for short periods of time. Since the PCI card is plugged into the motherboard directly, it shares a different relationship with the CPU and without the technical jargon, provides a more "stable" means of connectivity. If it's plugged in and not working, try another PCI port, if both ports won't recognize the device, check another PCI device, if another works, it's the card.USB is great for transferring data, however, it's not "priority" when communicating with the CPU. Want an example? Put your PC into standby mode and plug in a USB dongle. "wake up" your PC and check what comes on first. The USB will normally be "last" since it's not priority on the system bus and often drops due to inactivity. Think of it as a light that goes off due to inactivity and you have to wave your arm every once in awhile to get it back up.Back on the D-Link, while I have a pretty different situation and I can blame my USB dongle, I noticed at times that the router would drop my signal and take more than a few tries getting connected back to the main gateway. This D-Link has a few features which I looked into to determine the cause, but, pinging back and forth between my PC and a website like google showed no packet loss.So either this is a flaw in the antennae or I have to look even further by contacting the ISP and make sure their modem speeds are correct coming into our house. (If you ever have constant drops or resets on your ISP modem but blazingly fast speeds, this is usually the technicians job to fix the issue.) Either way, this router does its job, but, I'd personally suggest Linksys or Cisco products, they range between $50+ but their design and technical support are great.When contacting D-Link , I was given the per usual, "is it on? Are other devices connected? Hmmm, it sounds like you need another wireless adapter."Some other suggestions, if you're a "gamer" meaning the words "camping" and "raid" mean something completely different too you, I'd suggest a direct connection to any router other than LinkSyS or Cisco, if you're looking for photo, video streaming and facebook this router is budget friendly and easily set up but it's prone to signal drops and complete failure at times.

We purchased this dLink cloud router to replace an aging router that was beginning to cause a lot of problems, especially because of download and upload speeds. We were impressed with the positive reviews on this router, and set up was pretty easy, taking about 45 minutes at most. We joined our newly created network with all five of our wireless devices -- our two Apple laptops, our iPhone, our iPad 2 and our HP Wireless printer. These devices were added one by one with no problems whatsoever. Gee, this was great, so far at least.I was the first one to have a problem. On the iPhone, I noticed when about 100 feet away from the router that my signal strength would fluctuate between one to two bars. This was not impressing me, as this signal strength was about the same as the outdated router we had just discarded. Then, I got kicked off the net. Not once, not twice, but three times within about 2 hours! But, just getting kicked off wasn't the worse of it. . . I had to go to settings, select my own network, and THEN, I had to rejoin!! Again and again, as if I was someone coming over to the home asking if they could connect to our internet -- each time I had to do the reconnect, I was required to input my password. Yet, anyone knows that once you give a password for an internet connection, that you should be "good to go" always. Then, my spouse began to have problems with connectivity with one of our laptops. I then downloaded the free DLink Lite app on our iPhone, and sure enough all five "clients" were listed as connected.Bottom line is we would give this router zero stars, if it were possible to do so.Did we configure it incorrectly? No. Our HP Wireless printer works on all devices, all devices found the network immediately after our set up. So, what else could it have been?? The fact that we have Apple products? I think that possibility is very slim. Perhaps this particular router was a lemon. Who knows? It's the only one I can review though, isn't it.We ultimately solved our problem by installing an Airport Extreme manufactured by Apple. Pricey, but well worth it.

This is good basic router; an excellent value for most home networks.It is relatively easy to set up using either the manual method or the automated method that the included instructions recommend. We've only been using it for a couple of days so far, but no dropping or intermittent connection issues for our 11 devices. It is not dual-band, which isn't really an issue for us, and it does NOT have IPV6, which some descriptions indicated it did have. That's not really a problem for most home networks at this point, but it could be a problem in the future if / when we run out of IPV4 addresses for stuff... At ~$40, it's a solid, reliable option for a basic home router.The caveats:- The 'my dlink' service touted by dlink as a way to (remotely, if you prefer) manage your connections is not very robust. The options to configure the router are minimal at best; the connections list is extremely slow to respond to requests to refresh it, and the 'blocking' capability requires that you know the MAC addresses of all the devices in your network- which might be easy for some people, but isn't very intuitive. It identified one of our Android ereaders as a 'suspect' device and recommended blocking it with no other information except a MAC.. It seems to drop some connections from the displayed list of connected devices without explanation or reason, even though I've physically verified the devices are still connected to the network.The 'my dlink' service also allows you to connect remotely using an Android device...which seems to me to be inherently full of security problems that I'd personally prefer to avoid.- The speed of the router is just "OK". It's fine for most networks in a smaller household, but it is nowhere near the specs listed on the box. Several organizations' testing has verified this.- You can't remove the dual antennas and add bigger/better ones to increase the gain; they are large and permanently fixed to the router (whatever happened to those nice 'screw on/off' connections?).Hope that helps!

This router is funky and has serious throughput problem on upload.1.Before firmware upgrade, I was getting terrible upload speed.Compare:Linksys wrt54gl flashed with dd-wrt mini:via wifi (with wpa2): download 15.96/upload 14.22 (I have 40down/20up here)dlink 600L, firmware version 1.00:via wifi (open): download 14.96/upload 5.22 (I have 40down/20up here)dlink 600L, after firmware update (to 1.13):via wifi (open): download 12.53/upload 5.41 (I have 40 megs down/20 megs up here)2. When I went to do the update, the interface would not keep the path to the bin file:REAL PATH: c:\dlink_dir600\PATH SHOWN IN THE INTERFACE: c:\fakepathIt worked, but I wasted time renaming the directory thinking it was too long, hence the name "fakepath". If it is a variable, what a stupid variable name.3. After the firmware update, the language changed to Porteguese or Italian or something on the easy setup page. Manual setup pages are still in English. Is that weird, or what?4. History of browsing does not work even though enabled in the router (Real-time Browsing History -- checked). Claim in the manual is:"You can monitor a user's online activity with real-time website browsing history"Interestingly, the word "history" is used in the manual only in this one sentence.There's nothing in the manual on how to activate browsing history.Not only does it not work, Dlink can't spell: "No record of any vistied history" is what is reported.5. Even though the router has the correct time, the notifications are coming through with the wrong date:Instead of 2012-12-13, the date stamp on the email notifications is 2012-01-20. What's with that?6. Even though the firmware is the latest, the option to be notified of a firmware update results in continued notifications that an update is available.

Bought this to try it out. Disappointed that DHCP and QoS didn't get enough Development and QA. Reserving IP addresses causes the router and device not to work. IP addresses reserved ON the router fails to appear correct on the clients. This causes the router and DHCP services to stop working. So everything on this router needs to be DHCP or set static on client devices for users that don't care about IP reservations. Reservations on this router seems to be broke. Unfortunately, this model router is no longer in production and development.Storage is pretty nice. Nice to have the ability to install any size SATA 2.5" drive. 320Gb drive is installed in mine. Works well. I watched a movie from it on my Mac Book Pro. I've only heard the fan come one during boot up. While watching the movie, it didn't come at that I could hear. I presume that some of the fan noise is only due to certain types or brands of HDDs used. Drives that run hotter will probably make the router warmer or hotter thus causing the routers fan to turn on.Wireless range is good and works well. 2.4Ghz only.Gaming is good using 1 xbox. Not sure about anything more than 1 xbox as it doesn't have any priority and QoS custom rule option like other DIR series routers have so multiple xboxes can be used better. My 1 xbox and game play is great. Played for hours with out any problems seen on my network.Eventually it will be removed from being a main host router to become a wired AP and NAS box.So if your not too worried about IP address reservations and QoS, this is still a good router. Works well for general use and users with out specific network needs and with the additional storage options and features, getting a new one might me a good choice. I got mine cheap, new and still in the box unopened.Visit the D-Link forums for additional help, information on this router and other D-Link model routers.Good luck.

I am a Comcast performance Internet user. We used to rent a modem from Comcast and use an old linksys 802.11.b wireless router. The Internet speed is extremely slow, both upload and download speed <1M. Sometimes it's even stuck wile the signal strength looks fine. I bought a Motorola cable modem 3.0 and this dlink wireless router. The cable modem arrived earlier than dlink cloud router. I replaced it with the old Comcast cable modem. Our Internet speed improved. The download and upload speed both are around 3M for iPad 2, but the speed is still very slow for iPad 3 and old notebook (about 1M).I don't know the reason. After the dlink cloud router arrived, our Internet totally changed. The download speed reaches 20M, upload speed above 3M. The set up is very easy. I just unplug all the devices( cable modem and other devices connected to the router), replace the router, plug all the devices from lower grade device to higher grade device one by one and wait for several minutes. Then I try to connect dlink wireless using iPad. Instructions appear and step by step I complete password set up etc. You can also change wireless name and password by connect to 192.168.0.1. The initial user name is admin and password is blank. Log in and change your set up. The only problem is that you can not use linksys as your wireless name. I tried that and problems occurred. I reset the modem and the router works ok again. The Internet speed test is completed by an iPad application speedtesthd.The rang of the router is also good. We live in 2300 sq feet two stories house. The modem and dlink router are in the corner of first floor. Signals are strong enough in anywhere of second floor. In some place of the basement the iPad can also catch signals.I only have these new devices for less than 10 days.

I'm not a tech guru- just know if something works or not. The router functions very well.I'm using this in an adobe house with thick walls, in a climate with extreme weather. Neither construction nor weather help the wi-fi, yet this D-Link functions quite well. Signal carried through walls, to outside, into another structure- not strongly, but enough to use for limited-bandwidth applications.Inside my home, where D-Link lives, it's performed like a champ for a couple of months. Signal is strong. Speeds consistently good. I have added devices along the way without any problem.Set-up was very easy. No hassles. Worked right away.The bad news:I did need to have a conversation with tech support. I literally had to dial in 3 times, due to long wait times (up to one hour) and disconnects from their end.When I finally connected with a "tech", she was useless. Everything was my fault, my equipment is old, blah, blah. I did resolve the issue on my own, however.I also find the support on their web site to be very inadequate.The router itself? 5 stars. Tech support? 0. that's why this is a 3-star rating.

Like many others, I was really getting frustrated with a Linksys router and their "customer service." I got a new Linksys about a year ago, was having difficulties with connection speed from day 1, received a return authorization and they replaced my new with a re-conditioned router. When the same problems occurred (i.e. slow connection speed), I contacted customer service and they wanted $30 before they would even talk to me 'cause it was not a new router. My connection speed was about 1 - 2 Mbps and my Netflix streaming almost never gave me HD. When they asked me for more money, I said screw you, I can buy a new router for less.I went for this router as it cost about 1/2 what the linsys did (also less than the $30 Linksys wanted). It was very easy to install and add devices (I have 4 wireless and 3 wired). It always gives me above 20Mbps connection speed on both my iPhone and iPad, and Netflix always comes in at HD (provided it's an HD program of course).I would recommend this over Linksys any day.

I will start by saying that if you have a setup hitch, D-link's tech support is about as bad as they come. The Level 1 techs do not know anything. They are completely useless and shouldn't be employed by anyone ever. To top it off, you have to fight with the Level 1 tech in order to speak directly to a Level 2 tech. To make matters even more annoying, the Level 2 techs are only available after 3pm EST and Dlink prefers it if they call you. Good luck with that as they never call. If you end up with this router plan on figuring out everything on your own because Dlink is clueless. The Level 1 tech did not even understand my problem (most likely because they spoke English as a second, possibly third language). This tech kept wanting to send me over to customer service and RMA my router. I kept telling her it wasn't defective and I just needed some help getting it setup properly. Keep in mind, if you do get sucked into RMAing a Dlink product, Dlink will send you a used/refurb'd replacement. This is unacceptable especially considering that this was originally a $300 router. I did not pay good money to send in a brand new perfect looking product, only to receive some junky scratched up used replacement. I did not get that far into this convo with the tech, but in the past for RMA's, Dlink would charge your credit card an enormous fee (like a hold) and release it once they receive the RMA product. NO THANKS Dlink. Dlink is the only major company I have ever heard of who pulls this stuff.Onto the router, setup was not so easy on two of my computers (older Dell Optiplex running XP and a newer iMac running Lion and XP). Setup was a breeze on the Dell Latitude laptop though. Who knows why. On the laptop, I am actually able to follow the instructions on the Youtube video and map my hard drive! No error messages saying it cant find the drive! Yay! I am 1 for 3! LOL.I ended up getting a Samsung Spinpoint M8 1tb 9.5mm laptop hard drive (5400 rpm I believe). Formatted fine and I just loaded a couple jpgs onto it which are now displayed on the router. Not sure how to do a slideshow though. Maybe I need that Shareport utility. Apparently, Dlink Level l techs were wrong when they swore up and down that Shareport was required in order to map the hard drive, or load files onto it (I figured they were lying or wrong about this as it defied logic, lol). They also said I had to have Shareport in order to use a usb drive with this router, I assume this was another lie, but have not had a chance to test it.I am not hearing the loud noise output from my hard drive/fan that I am reading complaints about. Perhaps I am just immune to fan noises from being a long term Xbox owner, plus, my laptop cooler is pretty loud itself, so perhaps these things mask the 685's noise. Heat also does not seem to be an issue so far. No freezes yet either, that may have been due to FrameChannel (which was a reason I bought this in a woot off). FrameChannel is no longer so squash that.

Even though I wanted the Apple Airport Extreme (which I'll probably purchase eventually) -- currently I didn't have the funds for an expensive wireless router ($175+). So this little option looked perfect & what an amazing price! Arrived on time. Simple, modern packaging. I even like the device itself. Connection is awesome but then again, I do live in a little NYC studio so long range isn't an issue for me...so unfortunately I can't give feedback on that. But I will say, the wireless connection has been perfect...no issues & I work basically all day & night!The only issue was set up & honestly I'm quite technically savvy. I agree with many other customers. Of course this wouldn't prevent me from recommending the device but it's a little frustrating. The issue is their online set up. It's quite confusing so after 20 minutes, I had to call customer service to help. Argh, I hate that! But they walked me thru it & after 30-45 minutes, everything was up & running!

OK, long story short, the product is really good. It does work well and has a pretty high build quality. Now I need to sing the song of the other reviewers, WOW DOES D-LINK NEED TO READ THEIR OWN MANUALS!!!!!! They S T I N K! I purchased the D-Link DHP-1320 Wireless-N PowerLine Router and the D-Link DHP-W306AV PowerLine AV Wireless N Extender to replace an aging home network. I need everyone reading this to understand that I am an IT professional, I do this stuff for a living. I have very little experience working with Power line adapters, but I figured the other reviewers had to have very little computer knowledge and this is why they had a hard time figuring it out.Boy was I wrong!!! Let me give you a primer, The manuals for the DHP-1320 and the DHP-W306AV actually contradict each other! Clearly giving you two different sets of directions for establishing a connection between the two. One tells you same room, one tells you different rooms, one tells you 3 seconds to hold down the button, the other doesn't say, you get the picture?!? After searching far and wide I found the answers I needed and both the manuals are wrong.While one manual tells you a specific period of time, going past 3 seconds is pretty easy. Couple this with the fact that they do not clearly tell you what the buttons look like and the DHP-1320 having no indicator that it's in pairing mode (and the US instructions not telling you the home link button should be flashing) will leave you scratching your head wondering what the heck you should actually do.Have no fear, I found a PDF manual from the Australian D-link site with much clearer instructions. Apparently holding down the button for different lengths of time puts the router (or the adapter) into different pairing modes. Here is the download [...] (now last time I checked Australian and the US spoke the same language, so why are the manuals different?) You need to hold the button from 1 - 3 seconds (a little easier to determine than a straight 3 seconds) to put it in pairing mode.If you are going to purchase this product, tread lightly if you are easily confused or bewildered. You may need to have your local IT guru on hand to help you out.

Updated review:So it turns out I returned this device because I could barely get any of the features it has working properly, it gets super hot when you add a Hard drive (unless you get an ssd that gets low temps...but with a standard sata the hdd was running at 50 Celsius in a controlled environment with a laptop cooler running off the usb port right under it).The media server streaming would barely work while my devices were trying to connect under wifi. The PS3 would not see the router, the xbox would sometimes see it but wouldn't play most of the files and a logitech revue I had would see it and the files but could only play the music from it. All the same files are shared through PC's on the network and work fine...through the dir-685..nothing. Brought the router to a different location so I could connect everything wired and then everything looked fine... unfortunately most video files still wouldn't play.Wake on lan feature..another nightmare. Tried everything and nothing.Generally everything this device has to offer goes to waste once you really try to set it up. Check the dlink forum and select dir-685. Several issues, no solutions by anyone.Below I left my old review...when I still hadnt tried every thing I could to fix it.---------------------------------------------------------------------------I wrote this as a response to a bad review about the product and I thought I should post it as a seperate review."I have this product and I can tell you why yours is freezing up and dropping connection. This thing gets hot quick, especially if you install an internal hard drive. Yours probably needs RMA'ing since it is probably over heating, thats one of the downsides to this product. That and the extremely loud fan that kicks in whenever the temperature rises. The solution is to have some small quiet fan pointed at it to keep it cool. It works for me.On another note, Dlink customer service is indeed bad. Don't rely on calling them for help especially since their staff isnt really technical and will walk you through their whole playbook of troubleshooting since they can't think for themselves.Having said that, that covers most of your cons. As for the digital frame option, i would not really consider that as part of my purchase, but more of a nice to have. It is quite fun, easy to setup channels through framechannel and easy to read if you have it set up on your work desk.On the good side of this product...lots of settings in the menu. wake on lan support, bittorrent downloading, streaming your files without any computers on and also the option to setup a guest wireless network with a seperate ssid and seperate password so guessts dont need to know your password to log in.So i would say, if you RMA yours, have a quiet fan setup so it doesnt overheat and minimizes the usage of the loud built in fan, this product is exceptionally good. if it werent for the fan, I would give it a 5 out 5. Due to the fan (which is a big downside) i say 3 out of 5. I got this during an amazon gold box deal at 90 bucks and it was worth it. I might think twice at amazons discounted price at 150, but i would not pay a penny more. "

I had to call the dlink support team and it was a very uncomfortable experience. To register I needed to use my email. It kept telling my that my email was already being used. I tried 3 different email accounts i have and got the same message for all, which is untrue and frustrating. I could not password protect my wifi until this step is complete. When I called Dlink tech they tried to scare me with a story of a Trojan virus from 2009 and get me to let them FIX my computer. As I just had a new hard drive put in I knew this was not my problem and very much resent being manipulated in a attempt to sell me more product.The device itself is working fine. The humans ..not so much. Be aware if you buy from Dlink.... do not be fooled by them. and dont buy from this company if you are not electronic savvy