Отзывы о Wi-Fi роутер D-link DIR-620S
647 отзывов пользователей o D-link DIR-620S
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D-link DIR-620S?
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1. setup process
I've never had to EVER put my phone into airplane mode to setup a device....WTF. (at lease the app tells you in the setup process to disable cellular network)
2. firmware
I made sure to upgraded to the latest firmware (1.08). After several reboots, 1/2 devices is showing up as 1.07.
3. Wifi SSID
it only supports "Only A-Z, a-z, 0-9, “-”, “_”, and spaces are allowed"
this is very unfortunate. We should be able to use any character we want for higher security
4. Router / Bridge mode
I already have a very robust and capable router. I wanted to use this system as just Access Point mode. I had to settle for bridge mode. After switching to bridge mode, I lost guest-wifi ability. Again...WTF?!?
5. point devices
the 2 devices are no longer showing as being connected to the system when I use wired connection for the backhual
6. high latency
one of the reviews mentioned slow connection. download speeds are VERY SLOW. I have 200mb internet connection. I'm barely able to get 3mbps when connected to this system.
Maybe I got a broken unit(s) like other reviewers? I'm not sure. what I do know is like the other bad reviewers, I had a really bad experience with this. I'm going to return it back.
Now to the truth of things. We do photo and video editing and while the connection says it is fast it can not keep up with my Asus RT-AC66U access points and routers. It starts out at 42Mbps for about 3-5 seconds then drops to less than 1Mbps. The unit gets hot as soon as I access large data files. My AC setup with my RT-AC66Us transfer at 50-65MBps for the whole transfer and I tried this we 4 different laptops and 2 desktops that all have AC-9260 all the way up to AX200's that do 160MHz connections.
I do not think this is a valid Netgear as it looks like it was a refurb or a knock off. Very displeasing and I will be returning it.
Just disappointing at this point that this fails on so many levels for what it was built for. I do not blame Netgear, their equipment looks more polished than this and I am sure they perform better too.
And it’s simply false advertising. They say “extremely high power antennas!” But it’s a load of BOLOGNA. Two of the antennas are a measly 2 DBI (think: your router from 2003 when roadrunner first came out and most people still had Dial-Up) and the other two *gasp* are 5 dBi... NOT TO MENTION THEY ARE ALL OMNI. WHY.
Not everyone has the luxury of being able to install the router in the dead center of their living space.
I currently use an outdoor 20 DBI directional antenna on my 5 year old Netgear so I can get full coverage in my shed and backyard. I also use a 10 DBI directional antenna to point directly at my lovely repeater in the basement. The other port has a loss-less splitter on it with 2x 9 DBI OMNI antennas. I thought to myself: gee it’s time for an upgrade... yeah. A completely utterly worthless downgrade. They charged me more for something worse than my 5 year old router cost back when it was brand new.
All those replacement parts I mentioned (outdoor 20DBI antenna $20; indoor directional 10DBI $5, 2x Omni 9DBI and splitter $3 total for all parts::: for those who can’t math well I spent $28 four years ago when I first got Google Fiber Gigabit Internet to upgrade my router. Now my 5 year old router gives me 450mbps on 2.4 ghz in the shed 100 feet from my house, and 900 on 5 ghz inside the house. On the basement repeater I get around 450 mbps...
Fast forward to today: unboxing day. 5 years later. I open this utter piece of garbage and comparatively it looks like a Geo Metro compared to my Ferrari (which by the way was $120 when I bought it 5 years ago. Cheaper than this junk. I’m not even adjusting for inflation. Even if you add in the cost of the antennas I bought for my old router the cost would be equal. EQUAL. 5 years apart. No inflation added.
I have no clue what I’m going to do with this. I am absolutely furious. Never buy D-Link again.
The new one is far more (physically) lightweight, but who cares? Because it's setup software and "admin dashboard" are FAR, FAR better and easier to use than the old model.
AND (to our amazement), even our home-wide Ethernet network (wired) is MUCH snappier than with the older model. Progress!
We only have Wi-Fi for (frequent guests), but this IS a dual-band "AC" (the successor to "N") model, at "only" 1200 speed, which is fine for the freeloader visiting us. Ha ha. We bought another D-Link because the first one has been SO reliable (it was still chugging along, albeit slowly).
Thanks, D-Link
my main complaints were
1)the web interface is terrible. There were times where I would change settings, apply them, and the modem would have a completely different configuration on startup.
2)There's no easy way to run this router with DCHP disabled. I allocated a static IP in my cable modem, set it on this router, and disabled DCHP, items connecting to the router via wifi were unable to acquire an IP.
3)The router is only happy when it's on a different network address than my cable modem. my local network address is 192.169.0.xxxx, and this router would only work with DHCP enabled, and it would create a new network address 192.168.100.xxxx
4)I pretty much gave up on the idea of integrating the router in the local network, so I focus on getting it working on its own network (they only way it likes to work), the first time I ran a speed test I got shockingly fast speed (250mbs/300mbs) but as I continued to test the speed drastically dropped to around 50mbs. the upload speeds never hit their full potential of 20mbs
I would say this router is pretty bad, not enough options, broken UI, and the speed are insanely inconstant.
I do use this router with two laptops, one tablet, two cel phones using wifi calling, and 8 ethernet devices, some of them POE cameras, and one of them an ethernet smart TV, so the cumulative data can add up. Remember, this is in a metal building with foil insulation and metal walls with metal vehicles inside, going through metal insulated doors, as well. I do recommend setting two antennas straight up and two sideways. So far, so good, but the improvement is extremely noticeable. I will likely update on long term performance in the future.
The Virginmedia hub was ok but struggled for signal in the master bedroom and the TiVo boxes rarely worked when trying to play a recorded programme from one box to the other. Given the broadband speed of 500Mbs, I had nowhere near those connection speeds in a number of rooms. Connectivity to my IOT devices was ok, never had any dropouts. Due to COVID and working from home, I needed a better signal in my makeshift office (the dining room which is at the opposite end of the house from the lounge (separated by a kitchen and hallway).
Prior to buying the DIR-3060, I bought and returned a TP-Link Deco M5 (problems with Amazon 4K TV Firestick, Ring camera and Sonos units connecting) and a Netgear EX8000 Mesh Smart Extender (App would not correctly identify devices and required rebooting daily or every 2 days). It was important that I had a single SSID and could roam throughout the house on my Tablet and Smartphone which ruled out a cheap WiFi extender.
The DIR-3060 was delivered on 5th June 2020, setup immediately and I have waited a month or so prior to writing this review to ensure there were no problems with devices disconnecting or unreliable service. The device was delivered with v1.01 firmware. My Hub 3 is now in modem mode and DIR-3060 providing connectivity for all my devices. The bandwidth in the dining room increased from between 2-7Mbs to around 350Mbs which is a significant increase in speed.The firmware has had 2 updates and is now running on v1.11.
When I initially setup the device with the default settings on v1.01 I had a problem with 1 Amazon Echo device (I had another 2 identical models which connected without any issues). My Ring camera would drop connections as well. The D-Link support was spot on, I needed to disable WiFi Mesh (I don’t have any extenders anyway) and Smart Connect (which obviously isn’t that smart!). Disabling Smart Connect still allows you to have a single SSID for 2.4GHz and the 2 x 5GHz signals which is what I wanted to have seamless connectivity throughout the house.
A good tip for the Ring Camera is to fix the IP address (Reserve IP - this will only work on the main WiFi SSID and not the Guest SSID). I discovered the Ring fix by checking various forums.
Also with v1.01 firmware I had problems setting up the D-Link Defend (McAfee Secure Home Platform - includes 5 year subscription), it wouldn’t work. Firmware update solved this for me. This is really useful if you have children and want to control what they can access and when. It can also be used to control access for your iOT devices. There is also a real added bonus in that you can install McAfee Antivirus (2 year subscription) on an unlimited number of computers, tablets and smartphones (I’m still running another AV solution and will change when that when the subscription runs out).
A decent amount of time has passed so that I’m confident I can recommend this device if you need to have a decent Wi-Fi signal throughout the house and garden without the need to install Extenders (size and wall thickness permitting). The added security software makes this modern router an absolute bargain. WiFi 6 routers will future proof your network but comes at a premium at the moment and devices with WiFi 6 are few and far between (let’s face it, most iOT devices still only work on 2.4GHz Wireless LANs).
Having owned a few different brands of routers, I can say with confidence now that D-Link's user-changeable settings are barebones. You cannot change the channel that the router operates on, so you have to deal with the automatic setting, which may be putting you on a channel that is already high-traffic. Netgear's interface is more difficult to figure out, but allows you to fine-tune your router's settings to your heart's content.
Even if this router worked like it was supposed to, I'd be disappointed. If you're in the market for a good router, it's worth it to spend more to buy a better one than this.
Recently switched from BT to Sky. BT home hub 6 was excellent but the Sky router is terrible.
Tried a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 router before this and that was no better.
So far this Dlink router has been amazing. No more lag browsing pages on our phones or laptop.
WiFi strength and range doesnt seem that great but it does cover my whole mid terraced 4 bed house so does the job. No disconnects which is what the Netgear Nighthawk was prone too.
If I'm honest, I wish I didn't need this router. Sky should provide a decent router. BT do. But if you do have Sky, this is a must.
Sky router plugs into internet connection on Dlink. Set it to DHCP option on WAN setup (as if it were a cable modem).
Just make sure Sky router and Dlink router are on different IP ranges and also turn off WiFi on Sky router
Since I've had the router, despite all my connections, I've suffered very little buffering or video stream interruptions, even when the whole family is in.
This product went beyond expectations from the installation which was just about scanning a QR code and following the guided procedure using the D-Link app. Once it is all set, the app also allows me to check who is connected, bandwidth usage and manage the advanced router settings.
The EXO router can handle the Virgin fibre speed at its best, granting 531Mb download and 36.5Mb upload. This speed is also optimised using the MU-MIMO technology which can serve all of the connected devices at the same time with no lag which is the best I am gaming online.
My old router (currently set up again) is a Netgear and uses plug-and-play for multiple USB Hard Drives for personal storage and streaming content throughout the house. It is set up through a simple USB hub, and connects perfectly with few issues aside from long load times when I upload data to it. I had hoped this new device would be just as simple, as it was newer and featured both 2.0 and 3.0 USB plugs.
As you might guess, no.
It recognized one of the multiple hard drives, and only a single folder from said hard drive. Rather than their USB Share being a folder on Windows (or Mac) for the USB hub, it was a Windows Media Center playlist that refused to load in my Windows 7 version of Media Player. Further, setting up any kind of direct links to the two USB drives it eventually recognized out of four, it would refuse to operate properly and instead just ignore my requests. I tried using their FAQs on the website, but they were set up as to insult the user or treat them like they knew not what a "computer" was.
Upon doing some digging, I found out that their share interface uses SAMBA. Not a dance, this is apparently a UNIX system program meant for file sharing developed in 1995, and has no windows support. Any links from the SAMBA website result in dead ends, and it seems like a computer science degree is needed from the same decade to know how any of this works. Another alternative is to set up mini-servers for each hard drive... but only if it knows the hard drives exist. This also does not fix the issue of the missing folders. The router claims to be plug-and-play, but only if you don't mind not having access to your own media or the ability to use it like an actual USB drive.
The router's interface is also primitive and archaic, with even the advanced settings not bothering to actually provide what most people would call "advanced settings." Instead, it goes for form over function, and is merely content to look pretty and do little else. Even my 4 year old Netgear router had better options, and it's almost ancient in terms of computers now.
Frustrated beyond belief, I decided to call up their customer support line. From their website and the router's built-in information, they claim it is 24/7 support. As it turns out, D-Link has magically somehow crammed 24 hours of 7 day a week support into the hours of 8am to 5pm, Monday through Friday. I am not about to take a day off of work in order to contact these clowns who believe that this is technical support, considering their website is about as helpful as written instructions in Sanskrit.
The router is currently in its original packaging, waiting for the return label to be printed. This router has a great signal strength, and is actually pretty solid if you just plan to use the internet for streaming or gaming. If you bother to do anything else, such as store photos remotely in your personal cloud on a hard drive, do video streaming, or have personal backups of anything on a network, this Router is far from ideal and felt like it was actively working against me in order to thwart what I needed to do.
This is the worst product I've had the privilege of using, and I've made the mistake of buying a launch model Nook Color tablet.
Finally, the UI is too simple, making things like QoS (which is the main feature in a gaming router) way too basic. It also lacks features like LAN segmentation (VLAN), which is very useful when you have IP cameras and/or a NAS.
If you are a gamer and your ISP uses HFC (Cable) Internet connections, don't expect this router to improve your Internet connection by lowering your ping or giving you some extra bandwidth. The only thing that gives you a low ping and low jitter, is being close to the server and switching to a fiber connection (FTTH). Besides, the best for a gaming console or PC is a wired connection, so make sure that whatever network equipment you plan to buy, at least meet these 4 basic requirements:
1. Decent ethernet cables (Cat6 and above)
2. Gigabit ethernet ports
3. High throughput (WAN>LAN/LAN>WAN)
4. Advance QoS features that allow you to prioritize traffic not only by device, but also by protocol or even application.
If you are looking for a solid gaming router, keep looking, this woudn't be your best choice. If you can get one of these at 50% off (I got mine at $72) and somehow you can make it work, then it's alright. It gets the job done for most use cases.
Edit: If you are troubleshooting the missing images, slow webpage loading, and overall lagging; check the color of the Internet connection LED (the second from left to right). If the LED is amber, then there's some kind of problem or limitation with the Internet connection. Try changing the MTU number (in my case, 1500 was the right value). When the LED changes to a green color, the problem is fixed.
So first impressions it's bigger than I was expecting but it looks quality and well built so hopefully it will last a long time ,the power cord is a bit short for my needs
When it comes to set up it really easy download the app follow the instructions took about 5 minutes to set up
Most of the settings can be accessed through the app it also has Google assistant which is a limit to what you can do with it but it works well once it's been set up
The router itself seems to work great and I get my top speed for my provider.
I haven't had any problems with it at all. It had good range and it handle multiples devices without a problem
The dlink site notes firmware upgrades to improve this 02/20/20 on their website which I did not realize until yesterday during COVID SIP when the router stopped working after my hard reset. The tech support clearly did not know how to deal with hard reset and advised that a powering off + pushing on reset hole is as opposed to pushing on the pin while power is on??? and that the router cannot take multiple hard resets (This for a piece of electronics you sell for $130+ on Amazon?).
BEWARE I have gone through and spend days, nights and hours changing EVERYTHING in my life associated digitally and yes there are breaches in security as a whole to due to massive hacking on Experian, etc but this was the last straw for me.





