Отзывы о Фотоаппарат Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 II
646 отзывов пользователей o Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 II
Пользовались
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 II?
Поделитесь своим опытом и помогите другим сделать правильный выбор

- + Не имеют значения, по сравнению с недостатками.
- - Ужасное мыло на максимальной диафрагме - по всей видимости, фотоаппарат просто механически неспособен сфокусироваться из-за очень малой глубины резкости при диафрагме F1.8. В результате чёткие ночные снимки сделать практически невозможно - объект будет не в фокусе. Дважды сдавал в сервис-центр - признавали случай гарантийным, говорили, что что-то сделали, но толком так ничего не исправили. Также мылит углы (конкретно у меня верхний левый угол). По сравнению с RX100 первого поколения - полный шлак.
- + общая конструкция - металлическая надежная,
за 6 лет вспышка пару раз барахлила, влезла из пазов, получилось вставить, дальше работает,
впечатляет качество записываемого видео,
стабилизация при видеозаписи
в сложных ситуациях можно снимать даже на ISO 1600, потом из RAW вытягивать.
Отличное решение для макро и предметной съемки, маленькая матрица = большой ГРИП (глубина резко изображенного пространства). На большой матрице такие фотки не всегда можно сделать так как на этом фотике.
можно и в отпуск (хотя в этом со смартфоном удобней). - - - на 4-й год сломался слот для...
Things really picked up with release of the DSC-F828, which, like the earlier models, I took with me all over France multiple times, shooting cathedrals, museums, parks, cityscapes, and everything else. The 828 was really a massive step up from the earlier models, not because of the so-called “four color HAD sensor” that Sony was tooting at the time, but rather, in my mind, the shape of the camera, which was just delightful to use and to hold, and the wonderful Zeiss lens that improved even beyond the F707 and F828 models. THE F828 was a delightful camera to use and I still have fond memories of its pleasing shape and operation.
Then came the DSC-R1. This beastie of a camera became my favorite, and it was capable of shooting such terrific photos that people regularly confused the shots with those coming from much higher-end DSLRs. Because the R1 had a full sized APS sensor, and because it had what was arguably the best lens ever to date on a non-DSLR camera (the luscious Zeiss 24-120mm which opened to F/2.8 at the wide end), it was unrivaled at the time, while, admittedly, being a specialist camera. It wasn’t cheap, either, running $1,000 sans accessories. It took no video, had no image stabilization, and was over two pounds in weight. No matter. This was my camera of choice, and the only thing that could drag me away from it was the introduction of the Fuji X system, and even then, it was a long, drawn out thing. I loved not only the image quality, but the fact that I could rotate that oddly-positioned LCD screen so that it was at the top of the camera, allowing me to shoot head down, which, surprisingly, offered all kinds of advantages that don’t become apparent until you try it.
All right, this review is about a camera that has almost nothing in common with any of these models, the Sony DSC-RX100III (and please carefully note that this camera is the “III,” that is, the third generation of the DSC-RX100, which can be confusing; the DSC-RX100III is in some respects different than the first two models). This diminutive camera is small enough to fit into one of my pants pockets, weighs practically nothing, and sports an intermediate 1” sensor (much larger than the typical 2/3” sensor in many compacts, but not nearly as large as a full APS sensor). So why mention any of the previous models? Well, first of all to say that I’ve had lots of experience with Sony cameras (including some additional models I’ve not mentioned above, including the SLT-a33, the SLT-a57, and a handful of their compact models), and to also help describe what this camera is and what it is not.
First of all, what IS this camera? It’s a compact camera. As such, it is tiny, it is light, and it designed to operate with minimal user configuration (if that’s what you desire to do). It has an aluminum body. It has a very limited zoom range, only 2.9X, but does open to a very respectable 24mm, and a HUGE F/1.8 aperture. This means that the camera is well suited to shooting in low light settings, and also to shooting anything you want with a wide vista (e.g., landscapes, interiors, etc.). So, if you want to use it inside, in museums, churches, and so on, it’s suited for that type of setting, amongst others. It’s not made in Japan, but it is built to a very good quality level, and feels much more like a Japanese product that one might at first expect. It has a “BSI-CMOS” 20mp sensor, which is Sony’s name for their fancy backlit sensor, and also has a Zeiss lens, like much of Sony’s camera predecessor models. It also has a tilting screen, which is still somewhat of an oddity for pocket cameras, in spite of their obvious usefulness. It also comes equipped with a slew of customizable settings, special settings, programmable functions, pre-set scene settings, shutter priority, aperture priority, etc., so it tends to straddle a bit into the DSLR world in spite of its diminutive size. It takes very good quality video, and it also has panoramic stitching. And, it’s expensive.
What ISN’T it? It’s not a DSLR. It does not have a significant zoom. It does not have the complete complement of customizable settings that a DSLR typically has (although it comes close). It doesn’t have a full size sensor (but the 1”

ToDo list for next Firmware Update: (Please Forward to the Sony RX100M3 development team)
=========================================================
These wishes, lacks of functionality, problems and bugs are related to Firmware V1.10. I will mark the appropriate entries as DONE/FIXED/SOLVED if Sony indeed did solve them. Additionally I will increase the rating to 4 or 5 stars, depending on which and how many issues are solved.
Anyone is highly encouraged to copy & paste this list or parts of it and publish it, ideally in a way Sony will take notice of it.
Legend:
BUG = Real software bug or malfunction (also if malfunction is with intent)
LOF = lack of self-evident feature that nearly anyone expects in this class
WISH = wish
==========================================================
1.) [LOF] : Enable separate power-save delay durations for "LCD off" and "turning off completely". So LCD could be turned of e.g. already after 5...10 seconds if no key is pressed. Cam then could fall into sleep mode (wake-up by e.g. slight pressing shutter key)
2.) [LOF] : During LCD off (respective during OLED-Finder off) ensure to set all components to sleep mode (energy consumption nearly 0). This would save a huge amount of energy by a) no need to drive lens motor when user manually turns cam off/on to try to save energy, PLUS it would save energy already after a few seconds if the cam does no operation. Since battery is VERY small (3,9Wh, means ~30 minutes of video if not recording continuously) this is absolutely needed. I guess this could increase recording time also if stopping video near to the 55 minutes that can be achieved if recording nonstop.
3.) [LOF] : enhance list of video modes to have ALWAYS available *all* frame rates, independent if cam is set to PAL or NTSC. Maybe warn user, but do NOT prevent him to use 60fps if he wants to use 60fps/NTSC frame rate in PAL mode. (If this is done, there's no more need to implement bugfix/wish #4)
4.) [BUG] : do not force user to re-format SD-Card when changing from PAL to NTSC or vice versa. What the hell should this be good for? Why this absolute insane artificial restriction? Even better solution: put all NTSC frame rates into the Video Menu if in PAL mode and vice versa. (see previous entry, #3.) )
5.) [WISH] : Maybe put all video modes in one list instead having to switch between AVCHD and XAVC-S, add (AVCHD) and (XAVC-S) in brackets in the appropriate menu entries
6.) [LOF] : enable start/stop of video recording also by pressing shutter key (if dial is set to video mode)
7.) [LOF] : enable capturing of still images while recording video (at least in modes when CPU has enough capacity left). Remember: the cam has enough power to simultaneously record a low-quality MP4 stream to be sent to a smartphone. Since is NOT really needed, it would be totally OK if capturing still images only can be done if "dual video recording" (saving of additional MP4 video stream) is disabled.
8.) [LOF] : If #7. is done, do not forget to also enable FIFO buffering for multiple still images while recording video (2 or 3 images, the more, the better) to prevent that user has to wait up to 10 seconds to be able to take next picture (as it is the case with RX100M1).
9.) [BUG] : It is not possible to enable the "water level bubble" meter additionally to other status displays. Please fix this bug.
EDIT: this max be by intention. "DISP Button" (I'd rather call it "wheel upper button" steps through the previously selected elements)
10.) [WISH] : Add a back-in-time-shot option (shoot but not store stills before pressing shutter)
11.) [WISH] : Add a back-in-time option for video (e.g. save the 3 seconds that have happened BEFORE the movie button has been pressed)
12.) [WISH] : Add a short-sequence high-speed recording function with optional back-in-time. e.g. Save 3 seconds at 100..200 fps and play back at 25..50 fps), identical to that in Sony HDR-CX116 (Camcorder), if cam is capable of 200 fps for a short period, then also additional recording at 200 fps with playback at 25 would be adequate. (I guess if dual video recording is disabled there are some fps above 120 possible, same if resolution is reduced)
13.) [BUG] : review the German translation of several menu entries. (least important, but I would have expected much better translations).
For example: the following strings are named very misleading/un-understandable: "Anzeigequalität" (Better: "Bildrate Anzeige" or english: "Display Refresh Rate"), "Dateiformat", "Für Sucher", "Key-Benutzereinstlg.", "Bew.interv.-Einstlg", "Spur-Intv. im Beweg. aufn.-Video einstellen.", "Energiesp.-Startzeit"

Although the RX-100M3 cannot beat the RX-1 or any other full frame camera in overall photo image quality, it is superior in relationship to video quality to the RX-1/A99/A77-65 (and many other APS-C and FF DSLRs), where the improved Bionz X processor in the RX100III allows for a way better sampling heuristic (instead of the clumsy line skipping approach done in the RX1, A99, and all the other recent APS-C cameras). It's also astonishingly flexible in terms of shooting modes and operational styles, and additionally, Sony's improved image stabilization gives it a ~2 stop advantage, narrowing the low light performance gap between this sensor and a full frame sensor but without image stabilization (such as seen in the RX1) to basically nothing by allowing the RX100-III to shoot at slower shutter speeds, and thus keeping ISO lower. I'm able to shoot wide open at a 24 mm equivalent in low light at 1/5 second shutter speed, often without any image blurring, keeping my ISO relatively low and basically wiping out much of the low light advantage of the RX-1 FF sensor. It still of course doesn't quite create images that are as breathtaking as full frame equipment (still less dynamic range and color depth) - that is not a hittable or realistic performance target, but it comes amazingly close, and with only slightly more noise as ISO rises compared to the APS-C Sony sensor in a Sony A65 (although that camera was clearly no low light phenom). It might be slightly less noisy in RAW than the A65 at 3200 and 6400 - but they are certainly close. This is mighty impressive, given that this sensor is much smaller than an APS-C chip (but RX100's sensor is newer than the A65's). It's not quite one stop noisier than the newer Sony APS-C sensor in my A77II in head to head testing (The new A77ii is roughly 1 stop better sensor in terms of noise compared to the previous generation chip in the A65). This is still a mighty fine performance.
What this means is that there is a (roughly) one stop noise jump from these various levels of sensor size: most cell phone sensors > most compact cameras > RX-100 (and several other large sensor compacts) > newer APS-C (A6000/Nikon5300) > full frame (FF) RX1/Nikon600 > Sony A7s. Each level is a significant jump in low light performance, and thus impacts and limits you on exposure, shutter speed, and the whole range of shooting options. While noise/high ISO performance initially sounds like a lot of techno-obscurity that only geeks would care about or understand, it's really indicative of what basic physical restrictions there are on your creative options as a photographer. Not only that, and less appreciated by the average person, as noise does up, dynamic range, color depth, and virtually every other parameter that might index picture quality goes down in a linear and direct ratio. That's why noise and high ISO performance is so important. All this underscores also that the size of the sensor is critical - and kudos to Sony for its continual efforts to stuff the biggest sensor it can into smaller (and smaller) camera bodies.
All this just means simply that this camera has phenomenal low light performance, FOR ITS SIZE. Its low light performance is simply way ahead of every other compact its size, and is reasonably competitive with much larger cameras (such as m4/3 and APS-C where its noise is roughly one stop poorer than the best of the m4/3-APS-c crowd, and about two stops poorer than a typical FF pro-cam). The formal noise testing that I just did (comparing this to both an A77ii and RX1 in RAW) confirms this and shows it almost exactly two stops behind an RX-1. This is still mighty impressive, and with Sony's improved IS system giving it a 2+ stop advantage, I can do quite a bit of low light shooting, without worrying about noise (or heavy-handed noise reduction in the JPEG engine) wiping out details. I have to really want low light performance and/or slightly more resolution to lug the bi

Some background on me first. I have owned a Canon 5D Mark 2 since 2008 and I have an iPhone 5. So the question was, do I need/want this camera?
I have previously owned an early Olympus micro four-thirds camera and a large sensor compact Canon. I ended up selling both of these, as I got very little use out of them.
I bought this camera primarily as a video camera. I have always wanted a discretely sized excellent quality video camera and the specs in this seemed to fit the bill. This review will mainly look at video.
I read about the new XAVC S codec with some skepticism. It seemed like overkill for HD video as it uses a scary amount of storage. After using it though, there is no way I am going back to the lower bit-rate alternatives. With this codec I can shoot extremely complicated visual scenes, a forest in bright daylight for example, pan the camera and see no compression artifacts at all. If I compare this with my iPhone 5 or 5D video the difference is glaring.
I had even more skepticism about 60P, imagining I'd shoot 24p for a more cinematic look. I saw the high-frame-rate version of The Hobbit and was slightly sickened by it. I also imagined light sensitivity would be improved at lowers shutter speeds. This does not appear to be the case however. Also, as there are no compression artifacts at 60p, there is no reason to shoot at a lower speed to avoid them. I imagine the way intra-frame compression works, doubling the frame rate does not mean a commensurate increase in file size. This only leaves the aesthetic question of 60P versus 30 or 24. I have to say, even though the video has a hyper-real quality to it and looks in no way cinematic, I have grown to love it. I tell myself that if I want 30 frames per second later I can always reduce the frame rate during the editing process. Also, 60 frames per second allows for smooth slow motion, only 50% slower true, but it is full HD, unlike the 120fps mode, which is unpleasant to use and outputs poor quality video. So yes, I love 60P video and it is now all I shoot.
My love of the 60P mode also helps me get over my biggest gripe about the camera. The lack of 4K video. I have read a lot of reviewers who say 4K video is overkill, and if it was available on this camera, it would be more than regular consumers could handle. As in the amount of storage it would consume and the amount of processing power necessary to edit it successfully would be too much. This may be true for some consumers, but I think this is also true of the 1080 60P mode and that didn't stop Sony implementing that. This is a camera for people who know what they are doing, so I think the option for 4K should be there. The camera has the same sensor and processor as Sony's first consumer 4K camcorder, so there is no technical limitation. I can only assume they are afraid of canibalizing sales of that more expensive camera. I have used their 4K camcorder and the video is spectacular. The headroom 4K gives you for cropping/correcting on a 1080p timeline is also wonderful. It's a real shame this camera doesn't have it. I imagine the next iteration will, but that does not help me now. Perhaps some ingenious individual will circulate a firmware hack to enable it? I live in hope.
Incidentally, exporting the video to my Mac is not the easiest process. Neither Aperture nor Lightroom recognizes the XAVC S format, so I can't store it with my images. Final Cut Pro X does not recognize it straight out of the camera either. I have to use Sony's gross Playmemories software to import, then have Final Cut import the resulting files. Not the end of the world, but a hassle all the same.
Before leaving the topic of video I would like to stress that this camera shoots amazing video. All my criticisms aside, I am keeping the camera because the video quality is so much better than my iPhone and shooting is so much easier than it is with my DSLR. If your subject is sharply focused and the light is good, the video is to die for.
As a still camera I find it lacking. DPReview summed it up well when they said it wasn't fun to use. I can't help but compare using this camera to using the iPhone. The iPhone is just so intuitive. If you want to focus on something, you touch it. I keep finding I want to touch the screen on this camera, and the fact I can't bothers me. There are also so many modes that I have a hard time remembering which mode does what. I have googled the intelligent auto and intelligent auto plus modes half a dozen times and still don't know what they do. They seem interesting, so I don't want to ignore them, but if I can't easily see what they are doing I just end up frustrated. In these modes the display is littered with information, very little of which makes much sense.
I love shooting stills with my DSLR, I love the large viewfinder and I love my 85mm portrait lens. This camer

You'll still get better performance from a top-of-the-line mirrorless camera or DSLR, but those aren't nearly as portable, and they're certainly not small enough to carry in your pocket. The RX100 is plenty capable, but its greatest strength is its size. While heavier than many other point-and-shoots, it's not much larger. Its powerful 24-70mm f/1.8-2.8 Vario-Sonnar T* zoom lens does make it quite a bit thicker than your run-of-the-mill compact, but assuming you can deal with a moderate bulge, it can fit in a pants pocket.
You'll more likely be dangling the RX100 III from your wrist, using the included band, or from a third-party neck strap (the requisite adapters are in the box). Despite its small size, however, the camera offers all of the necessary buttons and dials, including a dedicated mode dial, a video record button, a scroll wheel (for adjusting aperture and/or shutter speed) and a button for accessing the integrated WiFi mode, which lets you transmit images from the camera directly to a smartphone or a tablet.
This time around, the greatest engineering feat is the pop-up electronic viewfinder. It's located at the far-left corner, and extends up about one inch when in use. The clever design includes a slide-out magnifier, complete with a diopter adjustment dial. The camera powers on as soon as you extend the EVF using the release switch on the left side of the housing, though it also turns off when you push it back down. Like most other EVFs, there's a proximity sensor that activates the finder and disables the LCD when you raise it to your eye. Of course, grazing the viewfinder with a finger or other appendage has the same effect, but you can simply push it back into the housing to eliminate the issue.
Because the EVF takes up quite a bit of space within the housing, Sony had to move the pop-up flash a bit to the right. It's now centered just above the lens, though it extends far enough to reach beyond the zoom, even at the widest focal length. Given that the flash has now taken over the real estate previously allocated to the full-size hot shoe, that component is a casualty of the RX100's redesign, though (as mentioned earlier) with the exception of perhaps a few hardcore shooters, it likely won't be missed.
USER INTERFACE
For a spell, Sony began including touchscreens with its mirrorless cameras, such as the NEX-5N, but newer models, including the Alpha 6000 and flagship A7s don't offer that feature. All three RX100 models also lack touch functionality, including this year's iteration, which may be a disappointment to some. On the other hand, no touchscreen means Sony needed to include a range of dedicated controls and dials, which ultimately work to improve the experience. The trade-off, of course, is that you can't tap to focus, which many shooters have come to count on when capturing video.
The user interface hasn't changed much since the original RX100. The menu layout is more or less identical, though there have been some slight cosmetic tweaks. The quick-access menu has been refined -- it's a bit more straightforward to use now -- but indicators and the camera's general workflow are consistent with past models. Like with the RX100 II, you can transfer images over WiFi using Sony's PlayMemories Mobile app for smartphones and tablets, but unlike competing products, you can't control the camera remotely.
PERFORMANCE AND BATTERY LIFE
The first model in this series was lauded for its incredibly fast focusing, and the RX100 III performs just as you'd expect. It focuses very quickly, and it's accurate nearly all of the time. Focus hunting is perceptible, particularly with dim subjects when you're not using the AF-assist light, but if you miss a shot due to speed, the camera probably won't be to blame. Granted, it's not the fastest gun in the West, but it's definitely one of the best in its class. As with any compact camera with a power zoom lens, it takes a second or two to get the camera powered on and ready to capture its first shot. If you're anticipating an upcoming capture, it's best to leave the RX100 powered on -- once the camera's standing by, shutter lag is barely noticeable.
As for battery life, I took the RX100 on vacation and managed to get through three days of exploring without charging up. On average, I probably used the camera for a few hours each day, so if you tend to capture hundreds of shots and dozens of video clips during each day of touring, you'll need to charge up overnight. During that period, I was able to snap more than 500 stills and 13 minutes of 1080p/60 video, which was captured with the high-bit rate (and processor-intensive) XAVC S codec.
IMAGE QUALITY
Since we're already on the topic of video, I'll start with some analysis there. The XAVC S codec available with Sony's latest cameras is a significant step up from AVCHD. Video looks great on the cam

Everyone buys a camera because they have a "use case," that is one or more set of needs they'd like to have met. I use a range of cameras, from the one in my iPhone 5s to a Leica MP film camera with a collection of prime lenses and a medium format "folder" camera, the Fujifilm GF670. I am a serious amateur with a passion for shooting black and white film (which I then scan, post-process, and print or post).
Though my Leica has set the benchmark for me in terms of image quality when shooting film, I enjoy the convenience of small digital cameras, particularly the one in my iPhone 5s. I can capture an image, process it in Snapseed (convert to BW, add a touch of "grain," juice up the contrast a bit), and upload it to Instagram "in a heart beat." But the iPhone lacks the ability to provide any real shallow depth of field, which I enjoy for portraits and to give images that "3D" appearance. Its zoom is digital and its low light performance . . . well, it's great for a phone.
I also own a Lumix GH1 with the 20mm "pancake lens" with a fast f 1.7 aperture. It's marvelous . . . but not really "palm sized". And fitting a zoom on it, makes it even larger.
So, my dream "palm sized" camera is one that provides a meaningful level of shallow depth of field, functions well in low light, has some optical zoom capability, and can fit in the palm of my hand.
The Sony RX100M III does MOST of these things . . . it fits perfectly in the palm of my hand, has a moderate zoom, does very well in low light, and has an acceptable though not outstanding shallow depth of field capability. While the lens IS an f1.8 aperture (and that get's the heart racing if you're an old film buff like me), it's mated to a 1 inch sensor, which is a long way from a full frame sensor. So while the low light capture capability is nice, the shallow depth of field? Meh. Unimpressive. Once you begin moving towards 50mm field of view, the aperture has dropped to nearly f 2.8 on a 1 inch sensor and "subject isolation" is scant to non-existent.
You might ask: why not get an Sony RX1 or RX1r? Besides the fact that it's nearly 4X the price, it doesn't zoom. And don't give me the "zoom with my feet" lecture . . . I own a collection of Leica primes and I get that part really well. It's just I'm getting a bit lazy in my "old age" and prefer more "reach" to the optics :-)
I'm not a purist who shoots only RAW. When I really get fixated on information density in an image, I shoot an ISO 50 speed film in my medium format camera and scan it to get a 500 Gb file. Lots of data . . . but I'm not a pixel peeper so if the jpeg output of my digital camera is decent, I'm happy. And the jpeg output of the Sony RX100M III is excellent.
And for the black and white film purists out there, fasten your seat belt: the high contrast monochrome setting on the Sony will knock your socks off! I'm tempted to call the Sony RX100M III a "Mini Monochrom", Leica's $8,000 black and white only digital camera. There are two other monochrome settings to use as well but I am having lots of fun with the high contrast setting. Is the sensor really as good as Leica's? No, of course not. But it is VERY good for the size and price.
The zoom range is nice: 24-70mm. To be honest, I'd like it to reach 100mm like the earlier models but then I'm not ready to trade the smaller aperture for that ;-)
A couple of other features I enjoy: you can shoot video in black and white . . . but I should point out that the sound of zoom "motor" is audible in the recording. Second, there is a built in ND (neutral density) filter that is automatically "turned on" if, like me, you are seeking to shoot with the lens "wide open" in sun light. When using the Aperture priority mode (and auto ISO), the camera will step down the ISO and increase the shutter speed to accommodate a wide open lens. But if that is not enough, it will engage the ND filter to enable you to "open up the lens." This is a very nice feature.
Finally, the built in WiFi transfer is serviceable for iOS devices. I don't fault Sony that Apple doesn't support NFC but the interface on Sony's iOS app is pretty weak. That being said, I now routinely transfer images from my camera to my iPhone or iPad. If anyone's having trouble with the process, ask a question on this "review" and I'll be happy to take you through the precise sequence that works nearly 100% of the time. (Rube Goldberg was Sony's software consultant).
So if you have a use case that is similar to mine, I'd recommend the camera. Or you can wait about 3-5 years or so and Sony will put a full frame sensor in an $800 palm size camera, with a zoom and a fast lens. And I'll own one :-D

Amazon sent my pre-ordered RX100-3 just in time before leaving on a vacation to Spain. This offered a great opportunity to test my brand-new camera under many different conditions: in dark churches, bright beaches, city panoramas, pictures in musea, selfies, concert videos, etc. After shooting over 700 pictures I am more enthusiastic about this camera than any camera I have owned until now. The pictures are very good. The RX100-3 seems to do most everything right. On top of that, it feels great in the hand as its made of high-quality materials.
It shoots razor sharp pictures that are a feast for the eye. The quality difference is immediately apparent when viewed on an retina-display iPad. Thanks to the large 1" image sensor and F1.8 lens it can crank up the ISO without introducing noise, resulting in spectacular low-light capabilities. I hardly used the flash as there is little need with such great hardware. In bright sunlight the built-in ND filter allows to perform some background defocussing.
The built-in viewfinder is unique and turns out to be very useful in practice, especially if you need reading glasses such as myself. Popping it out automatically switches the camera on, popping it back in switches it off again. The regular LCD screen can be tilted 180 degrees to shoot selfies, which is a nice touch. Apropos touch: the LCD screen is not. All controls are with tiny buttons, making for s steep learning curve given the many options of the camera. Sometimes I accidentally pushed one of those buttons, and it turns out to be hard to quickly recover from that. This camera is not for you if you are easily intimidated by options and buttons, or prefer a zen/Apple style minimal user interface. To make things worse, the built-in help feature is borderline useless. One has to consult the paper manual to understand what the DRO1 or HDR3 is, and what the sweet spot for each is.
The easy to grip ring around the lens controls the zoom, focus or exposure (depending on the shooting mode). Compared to the RX100-2, the ring operation is much faster, allowing for smooth zooming. The default 24mm is nicely wide-angle, great for most shots. In some situations a slight zoom in is better to prevent the unavoidable distortion from becoming noticeable. Maximum zoom is only 70mm, which makes this camera no suitable for birdwatchers. I do not mind as most of my shots did not require zoom. I enabled the digital zoom to get a little more zoom range. Given the super high resolution the penalty is not too bad.
It is strange that all expensive cameras lack GPS geotagging and easy connectivity. The good news is that the RX100-3 has a built in wifi which avoids messing with adapters and wires. I used it many times to send pictures to my smartphone and iPad. That still requires a bit too many button clicks, but it does work well and does not depend on external wifi network.
I did not have the time to read the manual, but I discovered a few other interesting features in the past 2 weeks of shooting:
- It has a built-in 'beautification' tool for those hedonistic selfies: skin smoothing, eye-widening, teeth whitening and more. It worked remarkable well even though it seems a bit of a marketing gimmick.
- Sweep panorama pictures can be shot either horizontally or vertically. I found the vertical sweep panorama to be an excellent way to get a wide-angle view without much distortion. All panoramas are shot at 1/500s.
- I still need to figure out when to use 'intelligent auto' and when 'superior auto'. If seems that superior auto is more creative with HDR (multi-exposure) in high contrast situations.
- The built-in flash can be aimed upward to the ceiling, resulting in a softer effect.
- The viewfinder can show an artificial horizon that helps shooting straight pictures.
- Digital zoom has 3 modes: 'off', 'clearimage', and 'on', where 'clearimage' seems to cleverly adjust zoom range to avoid too much resolution loss. (I have not read the manual yet ;)
- Battery life turns out to be quite good. I short over 200 pictures on a day and still had 20% battery left.
- The camera has a tendency to focus on the front object and defocus the background in auto-mode. That is great for portraits, but not always what is intended. Forcing a larger depth-of focus seems to require using the A or S modes instead.
The RX100-3 is probably the best portable cam

Since I'm upgrading from my iPhone, I didn't want anything too big or too drastic of a change. For me, I knew I would get frustrated with having to decide what kind of lens I want, bringing the lenses, etc. But I kind of wanted that same high quality look to the pictures I was taking...something you can no doubt get with a DSLR at half the price of this camera. So it's really up to your affordability and what you're willing to sacrifice in terms of the ability to change lenses or the ability to have something compact. If you want something a bit of both, I recommend getting the a6000. A camera I was very close to getting until I found out about the RX100M3. The a6000 is the same price as the M3 INCLUDING the lens. Some notes:
WiFi: I used the WiFi a LOT with this camera. I used it while I waited in line at Disneyland and during down time at sporting events. I uploaded them quickly onto my Instagram/Flickr account. It's pretty easy to set up...just make sure to read the instructions carefully. You can select the pictures you want to send to your phone/iPad and it only takes a few seconds.
VIEWFINDER/LCD: One of the only reasons I bought this camera over the previous RX100 models and the RX1/r is because the viewfinder is built in instead of buying an extra $400 accessory. The viewfinder is clear and almost exactly what you see when you take the picture. I kind of wish you were able to pull out the viewfinder a bit more because my cheek touches the screen and so my makeup ends up getting on it. BUT I was still able to see the LCD screen in broad daylight with no problem. So those of you who want the cheaper RX100s and don't really need a viewfinder...by all means get the previous models. It's not that different in terms of picture quality. And the LCD is almost perfect. I just wish it was touchscreen so I can easily navigate through the different tabs on the menu screen. But other than that, I love that you can flip it 180 degrees for selfies ;)
MENU: As I said in the previous paragraph, I wish I was able to touch where I want to go instead of constantly clicking through the different tabs. But the menu is pretty self-explanatory.
FLASH: The pop-up flash is useful instead of buying a flash like you have to do with the previous models . Haven't found a flaw with it yet.
BATTERY: Taking about 50-100 shots a day and the battery was still halfway-3/4 full. I did notice that it drained the battery significantly if I did continuous action shots.
HANDLING: There is no grip on this camera, so it might be hard for people with larger hands to hold this. Sony sells an attachment grip (really a sticker) that you can put on the front. It's about $15. But I'm kind of iffy on sticking something on an $800 camera. The weight of this camera is heavier than a usual compact, but I like that. Its a good balance for my hands. Sony does sell a leather jacket case for this camera for a whopping $85. Unfortunately, you can't use both the attachment grip and the case with this camera.
QUALITY: I think I've already established how great the quality is on this camera. It's comparable, if not better, than some DSLRs out there. At 20.1 megapixels, this thing is a monster. In a good way.
In the end, this camera gives me everything I want and more. Ever since I've had an iPhone, I've rarely used a REAL camera...besides my GoPro (is that considered real?). And I didn't want to lug around a huge DSLR either. Now that I have this camera, I know I'll be taking this everywhere I go. I'd recommend this to anyone whether they're a beginner or not. I know some people who already have DSLRs that will purchase this as a second camera because it's so compact yet the picture quality isn't sacrificed. If you're somewhat of a beginner like me and love to learn about how things work, definitely read up on apertures, shutter speeds, ISO, etc. You'll love your camera a lot more. Anyways, can't wait to start scrap booking! :)
Side note: If you plan on taking video with this camera, you have to get the 64GB Sony memory card because it records in XAVC S format. They normally retail for about $145, but I was able to get it for half off for $73. On the box: "Use SDXC card of Class 10 or faster to take movies in XAVC S format."
*Update 07/26/14
Took my camera on a recent trip to Hawaii. My review for the camera is still the same. If not, better. What I wanted to update you all on is the leather jacket case that Sony sells as well as the software I use to edit my photos. For the case priced at around

In conclusion, fantastic small camera with some small issues. Definitely the best pocket camera out there. If you prefer cool tones in your images this is a no brainer. If you prefer more realistic tones, I'll post an update if I find a way to get this thing to warm up.
UPDATE: So if you don't mind shooting in the Auto modes then there is a pretty good solution. If you click down on the rear dial it brings up a simple settings menu. On that menu is a temperature adjustment that lets you warm up the image to your liking. The downside is that it resets everytime you turn the camer off. Also, that simple menu is only available under the auto modes and does not activate under the A,S or M modes. For me, this is a good enough answer as my usage of this camera is primarily in auto mode (if I want a highly technical photo I'll probably use my D800). No doubt this camera can do great things and has very versatile raw files but I have no desire to edit these files and it is meant to be a quick fix when I want a picture:) I'm still not giving it 5 stars because the

Updated 6/24/14 - I thought I would add a comment about a statement from the dpreview piece on the M3. Dpreview praises the cameras abilities and then go on to say that it is not "fun" to shoot with. I guess an old SX-70 may have been more fun with all the whirring and spitting of prints but beyond that I am at a loss. I have had great creative session with both the M1 and M3. In fact, one of my favorite things about the camera is that is so easy and transparent to handle.
Pros:
Articulating LCD - I think this is a huge improvement over the original RX100. The ability to easily shoot high or low angle pictures is a great advantage. I have always liked using compact cameras from the ant's eye view and this makes it a lot easier to do. Like most of the construction of the RX100m3, the articulating LCD feels well built but clearly this is not a ruggedized camera. Care must be taken with the flash, EVF and LCD or damage could result. Things don't feel cheap they just don't feel "battle ready"
Picture Quality - I really like the output of the RX100M3. The pictures are sharp, vivid and relatively free of noise at moderate ISO settings. One of the big improvements in the area of low light is the enhanced widest aperture of the lens. One can pixel peep any lens into a corner (no pun intended) but Sony has done a very respectable job here. I will discuss this more later but by going with a fast, modest zoom with a nice wide end, Sony has created a more enthusiast oriented camera. As Robert Capa said, "If your pictures aren't good enough, you're not close enough."
Zoom - As mentioned above the zoom range is modest. I just really like the ability to use 24mm equivalent at the wide end. The zoom speed is quite good. Again, I think it compares favorably to other high-end compacts that I have used.
EVF - When I opened the EVF for the first time and look through it was terrible. Then I adjusted the diopter and it was beautiful. Seriously beautiful. This is my first EVF and I like it very much. I can see using it a great deal with this camera.
Shutter - The shutters drops very quickly without any undue lag. I really like the burst mode on this camera with the shutter sounds turned off. It is a great way to get very natural candids of friends and family.
Neutrals:
Weight - The RX100M3 is noticeably heavier than the original. Noticeably but not significantly heavier. Yes, when you pick it up you are just a touch more cognizant of gravities pull but nowhere near the point where you would leave on the table because it's too heavy to deal with. When carrying and using the camera the extra weight never crossed my mind.
Size - Certainly related to weight but also a function of adding goodies like the EVF and articulating LCD. I wear a lot of clothes with big pockets and I have never been one to just stuff a compact camera in a pants pocket on an ongoing basis. I have a very small Lowepro belt case for my original RX100 and the new one fits perfectly even with an extra battery tucked inside. The size and weight differences are certainly discreet.
Added 6/22/14 The current implementation of the Fn button is very nice. I really didn't use this button in the past but now it brings up a very clear, easy to follow UI for the some of the most commonly accessed functions. I really like this feature.
Added 6/22/14 I am growing very fond of the artificial horizon in the EVF. Despite 30+ years of photography I am still amazed how often in Lightroom I have to straighten the horizon. Maybe my head is just tilted. Whatever the cause, the artificial horizon really helps and as a result I am not losing any of the frame having to rotate in post.
Cons:
Menus - While the menu system on the M3 is improved and certainly better than the old NEX software it could still use improvement. My biggest complaint has to do with navigating between menu categories and sub-menus. To me the UI manipulation is not intuitive but is certainly workable.
Functions - Marketing people are wonderful and I know scene modes and scene recognition m

At that point, I checked Amazon online to see what the service policy was and where to go for support. Amazon's site said to contact the manufacturer for questions and/or repair, fair enough. So I called Sony support. The Sony tech asked me to try a couple things, power off and on, take the battery out, and finally said it sounded like a firmware issue and told me to send the camera back. He said that Sony would fix it under warranty.
I sent the camera in. A few days went by and Sony called me. They told me that the camera has some corrosion inside on the circuit boards, and said it was probably due to the humidity or moisture that may have entered the camera while in my use. I explained that I take very good care of tech gadgets and know for a fact that this camera was never exposed to any water or moisture. Apparently, corrosion is conveniently excluded from coverage under their warranty. Anyway, they told me that the repair of my camera is going to cost $225. I could either accept the fee or they would send the broken camera back to me. What was I going to do with an $800 paperweight and I really wanted this camera for Christmas photos. After trying to negotiate a more amicable solution, with no success, I agreed to the repair.
This was an $800, "TOP OF THE LINE" Sony camera (plus case, batteries, and other accessories) that I used for one trip, owned it for a total of 90 days, and now I have to spend another $225 to have it fixed. I checked online and found a lot of similar complaints about this corrosion issue with this camera and others are in same situation having to pay out of pocket for repair. In my opinion, here are the reasons this camera failed: inferior parts; poor construction; lack of quality control; and the body is not sealed from humidity. I have gone back and forth with Sony customer support and keep hearing, "this is our policy" and "while we would like to help, there is nothing we can do". I asked them to send me pictures of the corrosion, which I have not received. I can see me being charged if this was negligence on my part or if I had dropped the camera in the pool or ocean, but this camera has been dry since day 1. I don't expect every product to be perfect, if Sony would just acknowledged the camera was faulty and fix it under warranty, I would be happy.
I have several other cameras, Panasonic, Canon, and Nikon as well and iPhone, iPad, etc. Most are less expensive than the RX100M3 and some more than 10 years old. They are all still in top working condition, except for the Sony RX100M3.
Needless to say, I am very disappointed in Sony! The product quality and customer service are horrible! At one time, Sony was the go to company for high quality equipment and you didn't mind paying a little extra for it. It's just not that high quality company anymore. If Sony won’t stand behind the products they sell, who will?
There are far too many quality products on the market to waste your money on this overpriced junk. It takes great pictures and has lots of features, but in my opinion the costs are not worth the risks of getting one with a corrosion issue.
This will definitely be my last Sony product!


I highly recommend this book for the RX100M3 by Gary Friedman. I bought it and love it (http://friedmanarchives.blogspot.com/2014/12/lots-of-announcements.html?m=1)
I bought this camera because of its faster lens (f/1.8 to f2.8), which means, to me, more light entering onto the cameras sensor which, in turn, means to me slightly better images than previous models. Which translate to a shallower depth of field available. And that's exactly what I like and want in this model, and precisely why I bought it, even though I also have the previous M2 model. One thing I want to note here before I go on. The Aperture seems to move quite fast from 1.8 to 2.8 thru the smaller zoom range. In that, a case could be made that this lens is more of a steady 2.8 thru out the zoom range.
So then what exactly did I get with this upgrade from my M2 to my new M3? Well, you've got the newer Bionz X processer. The new 180 degree LCD (for Selfies if you are so inclined). The pop-up EVF (which is an innovation in and of itself, and a help with image stabilization when pressed against my face). Zebra pattern and focus peaking which is available on my RX10 and now the M3.
I feel the 24mm-70mm lens (though not the same reach as my previous M2 model - 28-100mm) is a good walk-around lens. And since I have been using this same zoom range for a long time on my DSLRs, I feel very comfortable with this zoom range in a very capable and now compact camera. When I use this for portraits at the long end of 70mm I expect to shoot mostly 1/2 to 3/4 body shots to full body shots. As opposed to the previous models zoom range of 28-100mm where I used it up to head and shoulder shots at the long end.
This camera has the same Bionz X processor that Sony has in their A7 line of cameras (one of which, the A7R, that I have). That was another plus for me in buying this camera. As far as image stabilization, it is important to compact cameras today and thus, to me. And I find that holding the camera up to my face while using the EVF gives me the 'feel' of a more stabilized shot. And my pictures look better to me. This is important to me because now that I am in my 60's, try as I might, holding the M2 or my smartphone without an EVF - is not as steady as I'd like it to be or as I remember it was when I was younger. And I need image stabilization in lower light. And this EVF on my new compact M3 seems to provide that for me. The only 'unofficial' (perhaps non-technical) test I could do with this camera was to zoom it out to 70mm, and hold the shutter half-way to see how much 'lock' I had on the image. Then I tried it with my M2. My observation was that I did see an improved difference with the M3.
There is a slight difference in camera size from the previous model (which I also have). The thickness of this model is about 2mm more. And the weight is about 8 to 9 grams more. What this also means in terms of fitting a leather case to it is that my previous models Sony leather case will not fit this camera. You're going to need the Sony LCJRXF/B Premium Jacket Case (Black). This new case will fit all previous models as well as this model. Just as the Sony LCJRXC/B Premium Jacket Case (Black) would only fit the M2 as well as the M1. Some people think that the case for the M2 will also fit the M3. It will not. I have tried it. I also recommend the custom camera grip by Richard Franiec (camera accessories by Richard Franiec). This goes for about 35$ and is worth its weight in gold - to me. It is far better than the Sony grip that I used on the M2 for 15$. Its made of metal (anodized aluminium) is sleek looking, feels good quality and solid, and gives you a good grip on the camera while still maintaining the cameras pocketability (because it doesn't protrude past the lens assembly). Of course with the camera grip added, the M3 will not fit in the Sony Leather camera case. So it is either one or the other. So to get around this I ordered another OP/TECH USA Soft Pouch Digital D-Micro (Black) for my M3 which I also have for the M2. And it fits great.
If my review was any help with your decision to purchase, and I hope I was of some help, kindly choose 'Yes' in the comments section below. Thank You. Richard


I would describe myself as an advanced beginner and (I confess) a pixel peeper. I was looking for a small camera that I can tuck into my purse when it's not practical to bring my Canon 70D for everyday still shots. I had picked up a used Canon PowerShot SX260 compact camera for this purpose; however, certain manual features (for example, focusing manually, setting a specific focus point, or locking exposure to recompose a silhouette) were not intuitive, slow to implement, or nonexistent, and I quickly got frustrated. I gave the SX260 to my husband, closed my eyes and took a deep breath, and wrote the hefty check for the RX100 III.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
What I lost in the telephoto reach of the SX260 I gained in other technical aspects that are important to me at this time. Right out of the box, I could pop into aperture mode (for example), spin a dial to change aperture, press a button to set exposure compensation, and, using another button, quickly access other functions such as ISO, drive and focus mode, and white balance. When I wanted quick access to a function that wasn't on the Fn screen, I just replaced one of Sony's choices with one of my own. When I wanted a super-quick way to set a specific focus point, I just set a custom key to pop me right into the Flexible Spot focus area mode (how cool is that, for a compact camera?). This camera really seems like a full-fledged dSLR, in miniature.
IMAGE QUALITY
I mostly shoot raw. This camera's .ARW files are recognized in Lightroom with the 5.5 update. I tried the RAW + JPG setting to compare the two formats; I'm impressed with the quality of the JPGs that come straight out of the camera.
I don't have a particularly steady hand, and I'm finding that I end up with more keepers using this camera than the 70D in similar situations, maybe because of its lighter weight and brighter lens. Even shots I took from the back of a motorcycle, at speed, came out surprisingly crisp.
My aim here is not to compare camera specs but to offer my impression of overall image quality and the ease with which I can obtain an image that pleases me, no matter which camera I'm using. I've spent countless hours viewing my images at 100% and beating myself up over shots that I missed because I moved, or focused on the wrong thing, or couldn't get the camera to do what I wanted at that moment. The point is that I'm pleased with the results I'm getting with this little camera, and now that I'm getting more consistent results I can stop obsessing over the technical aspects of my gear and concentrate on what I think making photographs is all about--composition, mood, and lighting. I'm excited!
OTHER RANDOM OBSERVATIONS
- The documentation for this camera is pretty sparse, but I've picked up some great tips from helpful contributors on various user forums.
- Personally, I don't mind that this camera "only" reaches a zoom of 70mm. I think it will make me a better photographer in the long run. In the meantime, I can crop in Lightroom if I missed an opportunity to get up close. I don't print larger than 8x10 prints, so cropping won't be a problem for me.
- I had gotten used to the touchscreen on my dDLR, but I don't miss having a touchscreen on the RX100 because accessing functions is speedy enough with the Fn button.
- I love the viewfinder and the control ring around the lens. I think these features help me hold the camera much steadier than having it positioned out at arm's length in front of me, like I was doing with the SX260.
- I like that the flash tilts so it can be bounced off of the ceiling instead of pointed directly at one's hapless subjects. It's a bit odd that the camera lacks a mechanism to hold the flash in a desired position, however. This makes it seem like a happy accident for Sony rather than a deliberate feature.
Hope this helps someone with similar expectations and shooting style make their purchase decision.

I have both the original RX100 and the RX100M3. I bought the first model right away when it came out a couple of years ago. It is still an excellent prosumer camera in 2014 with a good, basic feature set.
I did not buy the RX100M2 because I felt it did not have enough additional useful features to justify the added cost. Visually, the protruding multi-function hot-shoe also made the camera less aesthetically pleasing.
I bought the RX100M3 because of the following reasons:
1. The excellent Zeiss lens offering a wider wide angle (24mm) and much larger aperture (f/1.8 to 2.8) while trading off a smaller zoom range (24 to 70mm vs. 28 to 100mm), when compared to the original RX100. I use the wide end of a zoom lens much more often, and frequently in low light, so this lens is more suitable and useful for me than the one on the original RX100. For shooting in the bright outdoors, the M3 has a built-in 3-stop neutral density filter that helps to keep the aperture from stopping down for a pleasing blurred background effect.
2. The built-in, pop-up Electronic ViewFinder (EVF) which allows picture-taking the traditional way (up against the eye/body for more steadiness), is useful, unobtrusive, and more convenient than an external one. It is also a necessity when the shooting environment is the sunny and bright outdoors, where the LCD screen cannot be seen clearly. An external EVF is available for the RX100M2, but beside additional bulk, it costs $450 extra. The built-in EVF is great not just for composing a shot but also for checking exposure after a shot (or a video) is taken. You can't appreciate this feature enough until you find how frustrating it is trying to compose/check a shot under a bright sun, looking at a dim and washed out LCD screen.
3. An even more versatile tilt screen. The RX100M3 now allows you to take pictures from a low position, above the crowd, and of yourself. Without the protruding hot-shoe of the RX100M2, it was then possible to design the M3 screen to tilt up 180 degrees for taking selfies (self-portraits). You may be surprised how much you will use this feature now that it is possible. No need to risk asking strangers to take pictures for you anymore when you want to be included in a travel scene.
4. Last but not least, the RX100M3 is a vastly better video shooter compared to the two previous models. The new BIONZ X image processor permits full-sensor readout and XAVC S compression (requires SDXC memory card class 10) for excellent quality video comparable to the Sony RX10 bridge/superzoom camera. Video frame rates now include 24p, 30p, 60p, and 120p (@720p).
The RX100 series cameras utilize a 1-inch image sensor in a compact body while most point-and-shoot cameras use 1/2.3 inch sensors. A larger sensor can gather more light so its image quality tends to be better than a small sensor. But compared to 1/2.3 inch sensor cameras, a 1-inch sensor camera's lens size needs to be physically bigger and its zoom range much smaller, given a limited camera size. With these constraints, I deem it a wonder that Sony can come up with the RX100 series camera with so many features while keeping it very compact. Sony also makes cameras in the Compact System Camera (CSC) category that feature an even larger sensor (APS-C) and interchangeable lens capability, but they are not "pocketable" and an equivalent 24-70mm Zeiss lens costs $1,200 alone.
While I have other cameras, the Sony RX100M3 IS the one that I carry with me all of the time. I suggest using Sony's well-designed LCJ-RXF jacket (ever-ready) case to carry around your RX100M3. It allows the camera to be well protected until the moment you want to use it.



I haven't found the limited zoom range to be much of a handicap, especially when the camera is set to take 20MP exposures. While the files are big, this allows for substantial cropping, which has the same effect as zooming in further- without significant loss of detail. In the past, I typically set my cameras on "Intelligent Auto" or equivalent. However, with the RX100 III I've gone to consistently using the "Program" mode, in which the camera automatically sets the shutter speed and aperture. It is very easy to rotate the control wheel on the camera back with your thumb to select other aperture and shutter speed combos to your liking, depending on the situation. I've also set up the rear control wheel to allow very quick ISO adjustment. All the buttons plus the control ring on the front of the camera are programmable, which makes the camera highly customizable to suit your personal way of shooting. I've programmed the front control ring to adjust exposure compensation while in Program Mode. Being able to customize the functions of the buttons, etc., eliminates the need to dig through the many layers of menus to set the camera the way you want.
Another feature that sold me on the RX100 III is its ability to shoot video in both AVCHD and XAVC S formats, the latter of which allows 50Mbps Full HD (1920x1080) 60p recording for incredible results. However, I've quickly found that my dated iMac isn't nearly fast enough to easily work with such high quality video.
I've found two references to be very helpful in getting up to speed on the RX100 III. The first is a YouTube video by Dave Cheung (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SqyM3_AQu0) that offers what is essentially a tutorial on how to customize the functions of the camera's buttons and other controls. You don't have to set the controls as he recommends, but his suggestions are a very good starting place.
The second is an eBook (Kindle edition) by Alexander White (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N325FIY/ref=oh_aui_d_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that in effect provides a comprehensive pocket guide on my iPhone or iPad (requires the Kindle Reader app). I found this to be very useful during a recent trip to Disney World, unlike the useless little manual that comes with the camera. This eBook includes color photos showing the results of various camera settings and functions, and I often refer to it on my iMac as well.
While the RX100 III fits in the front pocket of my jeans or shorts, I also often use the ApeCase120 belt pack, which is just large enough to hold the camera by itself. It has a secure velcro closure on the flap, which allows for quick retrieval of the camera, and the pack is well made and about as small as possible.


