Отзывы о Фотоаппарат Nikon D7000 Body

I have had this product just over a year now.. And it has been a challenge to own this unit... When it works correctly, it is great, but I have been very challenged with it.. Here is the deal, and I think NIKON is the bigger problem than the camera, but that is hard to explain.. I have had a lot of problems with Nikon in recent years, most of them with their customer service and repair, which in my opinion is just the worst of any company I have done business with, except H&R BLOCK.. They really are a horrible company... Stay away from them and their products...As for the D7000, I bought it because my D40 died on me in Utah while I was in Canyonlands doing a photo vacation with a photo buddy.. And, note, he uses Canon and never complains!!! While on the shoot, the shutter release died.. I called NIKON, they said send it back, so in a campground, I wrote a letter explaining the issue, took the camera and the letter to the UPS office in MOAB, and mailed the dead camera back to Nikon.. I finished the photo trip without a camera.. My buddy suggested I might need a more professional camera since I was using the D40 a lot.. Might have worn the D40 out.! While on the trip, I met another photographer who does great work and uses the D7000. You can see her work on the web by searching for Faund Images. Super work!... Back home I ordered the D7000 in October of 2011, I think it was. I was actually gettting the camera to learn how to use it before I left on my trip to Europe in October of 2012. The camera arrived, I did some test shots, and discovered the sensor was really dirty.. Really bad.. I called Amazon and reported it.. They would be happy to exchange it for a new one, but they did not have a new one. I could get my money back, but that would be a big problem because I had also ordered two lens, power grip, filters, extra battery, a flash, etc.. The camera was only a part of the whole order.. Returning it for money was not a good choice.. I called NIKON and explained. A new camera had been delivered dirty.. They said they would check it out if I paid to have it returned, etc.. Could be a month or more to get the camera to them, cleaned and returned.. Not a fast service type thing, plus I had to pay for everything.. So, having the Copper Hill cleaning kit, I cleaned the sensor myself.. Turned out good. And things went well until I was back out west in Colorado doing fall color photos in Sept of 2012. The camera started burning out images. Not often, but two or three times per day, the camera would just decide to make a 1/125 second exposure into a 1/15 second exposure, etc... Burned the images out.. Then, later it stopped doing this on a regular basis.. I would liked to have sent it in for repair, as it was still under warranty at that time, but I was leaving for Europe in October. There would not be enough time to ship the camera to Nikon, get it repaired, because they are very slow, which I know from experience, then be able to take it to Europe with me, which was one of the bigger reasons for buying it and the 18-200 lens. .... It went to Europe with me. I arrived there on Oct 23. The camera worked until the morning of Nov 1. I took some early morning photos, then at 10 AM, just as I was taking a few photos of the tour bus, the camera started the image sensor issue again, and worse.. It did several things that were strange, and in the end it started leaving scan lines on all the images.. That was the end of the photos taking for this camera on this trip.. I still had 17 days of travel left and no camera to take photos with.. This camera was useless. There is another part of this story that I will share soon... I got home from my Europe trip on Nov 18. I mailed the camera to Nikon on November 23... I sent sample photos to show them how the camera had been acting in September in Colorado, and again on Nov 1. Their reply was a letter that stated these issues were caused by water damage. There had been no water or rain on it during the Sept time frame, but on the October 31, while on tour in Rome, it did rain on us.. It rained on us a lot.. I had a rain coat on, and I had a waterproof bag which I used to cover the camera.. I thought I had done a good job of keeping it dry. The people around me were using point and shoot cameras, Big Canon cameras, and even Ipads, to take photos.. None of these ever reported any problems from the rain or the moisture in the air, etc.. And, the advertisements suggests that the D7000 is weather resistant!!!!! Go fugure! What does that mean!!! After several calls and exchanges between Nikon and me, I got the camera back. They would not cover it under warranty, even though the issues started in Sept, long before the one year warranty ended in late October. I agree to pay for the repairs myself as I needed to get the camera back. As it turns out, I had insured all the camera gear before leaving on my trip. I called my insurance people and explained.. Turns out, my insurance would cove

I have been shooting with a Nikon D7000 now for about a year. During that year it has been through hell constantly. Its been all over the country, and all over a war zone. I want to start by saying, this is truly a rugged camera. I am a Combat Photographer for the army. I use my own equipment as my command is cheap and worthless. Currently, I am deployed overseas and this camera gets used every day.I chose the D7K a year ago because of a few things. Things that are unlike mosts.1: Its rugged and weather sealed. While it does occasionally see a downpour it spends a lot of time dealing with very high levels of dust. I do a full service on it about once a month and each time, There is literally no dust where there shouldn't be. For rain, Make sure you get a lens with a weather seal. Not even the Kit lens has a weather seal. I use mainly a 28, 35 and 50 prime. They all have weather seals and have all been used in heavy rain, no water got passed the lens into the camera. When I say heavy rain, I truly mean the worst rain your mind can imagine. This camera will take it. Though, touching on Rugged, I must say the Kit lens 18-105mm is a good lens IQ wise, not bad for a kit lens, in fact Id say its the best kit lens for a non pro camera. Though, aside from IQ This lens is NOT rugged, in fact, its cheap. The mount is plastic, the barrel is cheap plastic and after so little use (mainly use primes and my 2.8 zooms) part of the outer barrel broke while zooming. I'd say go for the body only and get a good fast prime or a 2.8 zoom. Something that is as rugged as the camera.2: Its light. The D7000 is really an easy camera to carry around. Slap a 35 or 50mm pancake lens on it and you can pocket it. (army pants... big pockets) It fits easy in pouches/bags and is light enough to cart around all day. I don't use the neck strap, I either use a shoulder harness or a wrist strap. super easy to weald, point and shoot. Buttons are in the right spots and with a battery grip its still not too heavy. Just right.3: Movies: Normally, Id carry around a Sony video camera and a DSLR. This was troublesome switching back and forth, lots of photos or video footage lost just changing back and forth. The D7000 does not take as good of video as my Sony did, though the Sony costs more than the D7000 and is made for Video. However, The D7K DOES take amazing footage and has full manual video. having my DSLR shoot video and photos has allowed me to carry less and shoot more photos and video. Being able to use my DSLR lenses to shoot video has saved me money from buying different glass for my video camera to do the same thing, Planning on selling the Sony when I get back as I just don't use it, sits in a case now. The D7K lacks a Audio monitor port which is a flaw IMO. However, I use a Zoom audio recorder and I can plug my headphones into it to monitor audio. I also use a RODE video mic pro. The internal mic is useless, too tinny, but for most users not shooting important video's or movies wont care.4: Battery life: The battery on the D7K lasts a very long time. Even shooting video and images it lasts a whole day. I carry 4 batteries when I go out. 2 in the camera (battery grip) and 2 spare. only had to change once. Quite amazing.5: large dials/buttons: I wear gloves. Constantly. Currently its freezing cold and often snowing/snow on the ground. Being able to use this camera in the cold with gloves is great. The cold does not stop this camera but it sure stops my hands so using gloves with fingers NOT cut out is a must. Big command dial and spaced out buttons makes it easy. Any fine tuning that needs to be done I just say to U1 or U2.All in all its a great camera. Mine has had all the paint worn off on the edges, chipping all over the front, the flash is broken after it went down a rocky hill bouncing about, and a small dent in the corner after it fell.... actually.... I dropped it.... from about 5 feet. Thing is, The camera still works perfect. Its nearing its lifespan (148,384 images) but still works great. still kicking. a true trooper.Its not with out some issues but they are small. Often when I shut off the camera, the top LCD still shows all the standard information and wont turn off (shows everything, not just image count) so I have to turn it off and on until it goes off. The camera is off when that happens, just the top LCD stays on. Wish they would fix that with a Firmware update but it seems Nikon is not really supporting it anymore specially since the D600 and 800 recently came out. Few issues with it dropping memory cards at random. Doesn't matter brand but certainly effects my PNY's the most. Id avoid them with this camera. Class 10 is a must.5/5 in my book. Any electronic device that can take such a heavy beating non stop for a year in bad weather and bad temps and keep doing what it was made too do is a winner.If you don't want a FX sensor (award winning images can easily be taken on cheap 100$ cameras, its all about the photographer n

I have to admit, after researching this camera I was nervous about purchasing this due to the many posts about focus issues, but after 1.5 years of using a d5100, I found that I really needed more accessible control to get to the next level. I have a large investment in Nikon DX lenses so getting an FX camera was just not an option. The new D600 has the ability to shoot DX, but it is far from ideal and the cost of the D600 body was out of my price range. I also really have no need for a full frame, the cropped frame provides me with excellent photos. When the price of the D7000 dropped to below $900 and with Amazon's awesome customer service, I knew it was time to buy. If there was indeed a problem, I knew I could return it.FIRST IMPRESSION: Upon opening the box, I knew that this was exactly what I was looking for. Although a little larger than my 5100, the buttons and dials and top display screen is leaps and bounds better than the 5100. Finally...no menu-digging to adjust settings! I charged up the battery and started shooting. My first set of shots were taken with all the default settings in AUTO mode. The result? All of the photos were soft. Disappointment. Could I have gotten one of the "bad" cameras? I wasn't ready to say that yet, besides, many photo gurus have touted the amazing quality of this camera. I picked up David Bush's Guide to the d7000 and learned a bit on HOW the d7000 Autofocus actually works. With a few changes to the settings and a bit more insight into the autofocus system, I was shooting tack-sharp photos within an hour.DEFAULT SETTING CHANGES: The first thing you should do when you get this camera is change the JPEG image quality form NORM to FINE. Then turn OFF the Hi ISO NR (noise reduction), which is degrades the detail in your shots in order to reduce noise, creating a softer image. I choose to set the dynamic-area AF to 21 point which will help with speed (although I have to say this camera's focus speed is phenomenal compared to the 5100). Use AF-C or AF-S. This camera has 3 autofocus modes - AF-A, AF-S and AF-C. I found that when I use AF-A, I tend to get more soft shots. Once I move to AF-S or AF-C, my photos become beautifully sharp.Finally, you really need to have a grasp of how your aperture affects you DOF (depth of field). Using a larger aperture produces a very small DOF. If you are relying on the camera to make these decisions for you, you may not get the shot you are looking for. The camera may be smart for getting the correct exposure, but it doesn't know what you are thinking! A good rule of thumb is to use at least f/5.6 - f/8 for portraits and make sure your focus point(s) are set on the eyes. Set focus, lock and recompose if needed. You will notice a significant difference in the clarity of your photos. Finally, use a decent lens!!! My Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 is a solid performer on this body.MY RECOMMENDATION: I am by no means a "professional", but I do have a working knowledge of how to use a dslr. If you are looking for a camera that you pull out of the box and expect perfect shots while set in automode, this camera is not for you...you are better off investing in a high end point and shoot. If you know something about ISO, Shutter, Aperture, AF-S, AF-C, Metering and plan on growing that knowledge and want to rely on your ability instead of the camera, the d7000 is a gem at a great price. If you want something in-between, consider the d3100 or the d5100. Both of which are less expensive and are solid performers. The d7000 is the perfect answer for those looking for easy access and control over their images.MY OPINION: While I'm sure there are d7000s out there that do indeed have a focus problem, I'm pretty sure that many of the complaints may be due to not taking the time to truly understand the camera and how it works. While the autofocus is awesome, it is NOT perfect and requires the person to take control, which is the point of buying a dslr anyway, isn't it? Just because it costs more doesn't mean it should excel at being a point and shoot!THE BOTTOM LINE: Don't be afraid of buying this camera because of the publicized "focus" issues.****UPDATE****I've had this camera for well over a month now and I can't tell you how ecstatic I am with it. After getting comfortable with the camera and its controls, and learning all the sweet-spots on my lenses, I feel that this camera has pushed me to the next level in my photography journey. I have been able to produce tack sharp image after tack sharp image. I'm finding that I'm doing much less editing with this camera than I had with my 5100. I think this is partially due to the camera and partially due to learning more and having the ability to easily control manual settings. This camera will serve me for many years to come!!!!

I bought this camera from my local dealer a few months ago and got a chance to give it a real workout on a trip to MN recently. I think this is a great camera and have had no back-focus issues some have mentioned.When I was shopping for this camera I compared it to an APS-C Canon in the same price range (7D maybe?), and also compared it with the Olympus OM-D E-M5 and the Fuji X-Pro1, both of which seem to have great reputations.The Fuji was really, really, tempting but in the end I had read too many reviews on too many sites about strange focusing behavior and various other problems and quirks. The Fuji also lacked image-stabilization in the body or in any of the lenses available at the time. The Oly looked like a nice camera on paper but when I held it in my hands, it was a lot smaller than I expected and felt very light (I wanted a more solid feeling camera - just my preference). It also uses a micro 4/3 sensor which is noticeably smaller than the APS-C sensors used in the D7000 (and its corporate brethren). I don't know how much difference the smaller micro 4/3 sensor makes in real life, but it was just another nail in the coffin for the Oly for me.The other issue I had with the Oly and the Fuji is that the bodies are so small that a lot of functionality is done via menus, and I HATE menus on cameras. I had an old Canon F1 film body for a long, long time and really like it. Built like a tank, no electronic menus - everything was run via buttons and dials. More recently I had an Olympus E-20 ZLR and it, too, offers much of its functionality via buttons on the camera body. I have used plenty of cameras with all the settings buried under menus and just can't stand that. So any camera that is menu-intensive is out of the picture for me.I am the proverbial "bull in china shop" and am not as careful as I should be, so I needed a camera that would withstand me. The D7000 feels very solid and hefty and has a magnesium shell under the plastic exterior which helps make it more durable for people like me. The "solid" feeling reminds me a lot of the Nikon D300 (I've never owned one but have played around with a few at the local camera store) and the D300 is supposed to be a pro or semi-pro model.The D7000 has plenty of buttons - ISO, +/- exposure adjustment, shooting modes (P/A/S/M/scene modes), spot/center-weighted/matrix metering setting, DOF preview, and a function button to which you can assign just about any function you like. There are about fix or six buttons vertically oriented to the left of the LCD on the back of the camera.The viewfinder coverage is ~100% so pretty much what you see in the viewfinder is what you'll get in the final image - nothing is visible in the viewfinder that is cropped out in the final image and nothing outside of the viewfinder shows up in the final image.The cameras shoots RAW, JPG, and RAW + JPG. I've never shot RAW before and can definitely tell the difference between RAW and JPG but when manually editing RAW files in Lightoom, I have a hard time matching the quality of the JPG straight out of the camera. I'll probably still shoot RAW + JPG for special trips but shoot mostly JPG for less special events.The one bone I have to pick with the D7000 and Nikon is the infamous Nikon over-exposure issue. I had read about this before I bought the camera and so kind of knew I might run into it. I was shooting lots of pictures with blue sky and some with Lake Superior in the picture (either or both). I found that with any significant amount of water or blue sky in the picture, the D7000 is going to blow out the highlights at the metered setting. I used matrix metering to meter the scene in general, and I also used the spot meter to meter off of grass, rocks, pavement, etc. to get an approximate 18% gray metered value and still got blown (overexposed) highlights. If I'm shooting a scene that has grass, rocks, trees, flowers, etc. but no sky, the D7000 metered exposure is pretty much right on. What I found is that I have to set the the +/- exposure setting to -0.5 or -0.7 in most cases when overexposure is possible. This brings the highlights under control. I have the camera set to display flashing red color in the image playback to show me parts of the image that have clipped (seriously overexposed) highlights and I have the histogram enabled too (it shows all three channels - R,G,B, plus luminosity) so I can see what channel(s) are clipping when I get flashing highlights on image playback. So an exposure adjustment of -0.7 or so usually tames the highlights.The camera also offers an Active D-Lighting feature which helps bring the shadows and highlights under control when enabled. I was shooting waterfalls in MN recently and some of the waterfalls are in shady areas and/or in deep gullies, yet some sky is in the picture too. I underexpose (according to the meter) to keep from blowing out the sky (i.e.. having the sky get be so overexposed that it is completely white and washed out) and th

This less than stellar review is intended to be a gentle reminder to those happy entry-level users of under-appreciated workhourse cameras like the Canon T3 to think carefully and get a hands-on demonstration minimally before investing 5 times the cost of your current camera and lens (the standard 18-55mm kit lens) to make the jump to a hefty, serious amateur/starting professional camera such as this gorgeous Nikon D7000, or its new upgraded model, the D7100. I got a big box store Black Friday deal on the older but well-praised unit for half-price, $800, complete with a reknowned Nikon 18-140 mm VR zoom lens. The lens alone lists for about $800, so it was a no-brainer purchase at the time. Being somewhat handicapped from a mobility standpoint, I must do most of my buying on-line and don't usually have the luxury of walking the malls and fighting the crowds to see what I'm getting ahead of time. What arrived via UPS was a much larger, heavy metal, weather-sealed, beautifully constructed camera with a hearty 5 lb. lens that made the Nikon D7000 look like the Pinocchio of the DSLR camera world. Overwhelmed by the array of buttons, arthritis- challenging weight, and telephone book-like instruction manual, I dove for the the Quick Start sheet, assembled the lens to the camera, gently threw on a protective UV filter, charged the battery, put in a class 10 SD card, and set it on the infamous, life-saving green, full-auto setting to give it a test run against my trusty, lightweight, mostly plastic, not designed to withstand the elements Canon T3. After anticipating this moment for 3 years and feeling quite proud of the deal I got, I gathered the grandchildren's colorful Christmas toys and packages and set up a night-time test shoot on my bed, using only the pop-up flash and auto setting for each camera. I was prepared to be blown away and already wondering if i should keep or sell the T3. What happened next did shake me to the core, but not in a good way, more in a sad way. In side-by-side comparisons of identical shots taken by each camera, the Canon T3 digita pics were better in every case ( to my eye) as compared to the much more expensive Nikon D7000. Of course, this evaluation is very subjective and hardly intended to be the final word on the on-going Canon VS Nikon debate, but I was disappointed and knew instantly I would never be happy with the new camera, so it's going back tomorrow. I've come to terms with the fact that apparently I love a very lightweight, uncomplicated DSLR that gives me bragging quality shots of the grandkids every weekend with little to no effort on my part except to hold the camera steady as it works its magic. Essentially, though fabulous, though a great deal, the Nikon D7000 was and always will be too much camera for a person like myself. I'm sure with all it's available adjustments, a professional could re-shoot my pics and blow my mind. But the reality is, if you're a happy point and shoot person that wants beautiful pics without hardly any effort in a lightweight, easy to handle and transport mostly plastic package, I heartily recommend keeping your place with your entry level camera, you'll be much happier. I am glad I had this opportunity to test the camera for my particular use, or I'd be spending the rest of my amateur days wishing I could afford better. But now I'm super content, knowing that an entry-level camera like the Canon T3 is perfect for my purposes and skill level. Hope this helps people like me sleep better.

Lets start from the beginning:I am upgrading my body from a D3000 to this camera and the extra features that it has and the little touch up makes this upgrade a must for those who are looking for one if you are getting work. Space wise my review is gonna be long but it will be nicely organized so you can see what part you are looking for.Features:This camera has a lot of them. The higher ISO performance is great and the fact that you can choose between 1/2 and 1/3 stops for just about everything on this camera, shooting RAW is not only a must but much easier to do. By being able to increase everything from shutter speed, aperture and ISO in 1/3 stops it makes manual truly feel manual. Also by being able to shoot in 1/3 stop ISO it allows you to cheat more and just barely over expose the shot without adding too much noise at the higher levels. Also if you have older lenses this will auto focus with them. Those lenses seem to be mis-focusing or slightly less sharp, you can in camera change that. There are many more features such as commander mode for flashes and etc. So if you want total control of the shot but don't want something that will intimidate you, this camera can be the one.ISO Performance:Seeing how I have very bad glass (18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 and 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6) I have to stay in the higher ISO's so to me this is great in some sense. Since I am force at this time to use f/5.6 a lot it's hard to get the shot I want. But this isn't much of a problem to be honest cause with a little adjusting in Lightroom you can use ISO 12800 images in RAW and still come out a winner. The grain is a little harsh but the color is easily corrected and for a HI 1.0 setting it does a pretty good job.Body Build:Theres no hiding the fact that this camera is heavy. But the fact that it's weather sealed and has a solid feel to it, makes up for it. The rubber grip feels really nice and it has a nice little "cavern" in it for your finger tips to tuck in to give you a nice hold on to the camera. Also the dual commander dials makes manual shooting more natural and more fun to do. Having certain buttons such as the AF mode button and dedicated buttons to ISO, exposure comp, etc., make hunting through tedious menus a thing in the past cause everything you need is practically at your finger tips. Something that is a nice thing to get use to if you plan on going full frame after using this camera for a few years.Seller Review:The seller that gave me the camera didn't include a body cap so when I looked through the view finder I thought the sensor was dirty but it's not so who cares. Though that is a big annoyance it doesn't affect the performance of this camera. Also it said that there was some minor cosmetic damage, and I didn't see it, which is great. The seller also forgot to say that the bottom rubber piece was missing, since I will be keeping the grip on it all the time it's more of an inconvenience for when I want to go street shooting then a real knock off. Basically minus one star cause of the seller in the fact that they forgot to mention some of this.Conclusion:I am an upcoming semi-professional event shooter so the high ISO performance, high FPS and the ability to have a real grip means a lot to me. If you are someone who wants to upgrade just cause, don't waste your time. It can be over whelming to you if you don't know what each button does yet alone where the things are. And I watched a lot of views and read the manual before even getting the camera. Though there is a learning curve cause you have everything at your finger tips if you are coming form a D3000 or equiv. body, in the end it's going to be worth it and this camera will be the one that will get you the shot. Also this camera might get me into cine just for the giggles.Should I Wait:In all honesty if you are asking this question it's like asking when is it a good time to buy a tablet. Get something that will fulfill your needs and just be happy with it. In all honesty the D7100 (or whatever Nikon will call it) won't come out for probably the next few years or so (1/29/13) from now. But who knows exactly besides Nikon. If you still want to wait and are trying to choose between this and a new lens, get the lens if you don't feel safe buying the camera now. Glass goes with you but the body won't just keep that in mind.Thanks for reading my review. Hope I was able to help in some way.

The Nikon D7000 is truly wonderful to use. This camera is cram-packed full of performance and features that put it punching well above it's class.PERFORMANCE:The most impressive thing about the D7000 is image quality; incredibly high dynamic range and color depth create crisp, punchy images that pull out incredible detail in the darks and highlights. ISO performance is also a good selling point; this is argued by many, but I find the D7000 can create usable non-distracting images all the way up to ISO 5000, and below 3200 the images are fantastic. The new image processor in the D7000 is great at giving the images a film-like grain under high sensitivity and does a great job of curbing the noise. The new color metering system is generally very accurate and adapts well to changing light, though it often over-exposes by about a 1/3 stop in bright sunlight. The Autofocus is very customizable and overall is impressively quick, snappy, and accurate. The 39 focus point selection is easy to use and comes in handy when using variable selection. Set to subject tracking, the AF is stunning and seems to know exactly what you are going to do - I commend Nikon here greatly. The viewfinder is huge for a DX camera and is completely accurate to the final framing (100% accuracy); it's also very bright with a well thought-out layout of information. Shooting is seamless and breathtaking; 6 frames per second and a great trigger are to help here. Video performance is strong, though not as strong as I would have hoped; don't bother with continuous autofocus as it's not useful. Battery life is very good on the D7000; I can go for a few weeks of shooting on and off before worrying about charging the battery (which charges quickly).CONTROLS & FEATURES:Nikon did their homework here; the D7000 has the best button layout/ergonomics of any SLR I've used. I can do nearly everything without going into the menu - in fact it's possibly my least used button on the camera. All major controls can be accessed with one hand with the exception of the ISO button being to the left of the LCD (the only major complaint I have with this camera's ergonomics). I love the lockable drive-mode dial under the shooting-mode dial; it's incredibly handy. The thing that struck me the most was how customizable this camera is; the menus are fantastic and very deep and you can save several shooting setups within the menus and on the control dial (U1, U2). There are many buttons that can be re-assigned and programed in many configurations. The top LCD is a little small, but provides loads of information; I just wish it had an extra spot to show your ISO without replacing the remaining frame-count. The addition of the professional trigger from the top-guns of the Nikon DSLR range is great; I love the firm, but 'squishy' feel that gives a very accurate release point. Size and weight are good, but I wish there was more space for fingers (the optional battery grip fixes this issue). I am very glad Nikon decided to put in a dual-SD card slot, though CF would have been nice too... but really, I'm asking too much considering the incredibly generous feature list. The AF selection button located on the manual-auto lever is nice, but is a bit hard to reach. The LCD is very high-resolution and offers good contrast and color for accurate photo-previews.BUILD QUALITY:The D7000 feels like a brick, and I mean that in the best possible way. Nikon's choice to go for a chunky magnesium block for the frame was a good one; this camera feels very, very well made. The seams and edges meet very nicely and the rubber surfaces are adequately grippy. The control dials are also grippy and come in handy during hot days (sweaty hands). This camera just oozes quality and thoughtful design; bravo Nikon!PROS:- Ridiculous performance/ features for the price- Outstanding image quality- Outstanding dynamic range and color-depth- Sharp, contrasty images that render beautifully- Great images up to ISO 3200, usable up to 5000; not bad for a veteran of the current DSLR market- All around good AF system- Huge, 100% accurate viewfinder- 6 fps- Great shooting modes and controls- Very deeply customizable menus/controls- Well thought out ergonomics and controls that just work. Period.- Built like a magnesium tank- Has many pro features from higher-end camerasCONS:- Small-ish in size (could be a pro if you like this)- Overexposes slightly in bright sunlight- Average video performance (not a bad thing, just not as exemplary as the rest of this camera's performance)- ISO button needs to be near the exposure comp/ metering buttons (or at least on the right side)- ISO range could be better- Top LCD has no default spot for the currently set ISO- Body-grip rubber could be grippier- No CF slot, though dual SD is niceOverall the Nikon D7000 has strengthened my faith in Nikon for delivering top of the line performance in incredible packages. If you're not ready for FX, this is the next best thing.

I am an avid photographer and filmmaker. I have won several awards for my films and used many different cameras. In the market for affordable, but high quality DSLR Camera that shoots videos, I found myself in the procession of the Nikon D7000 Kit. It comes with an 18-105mm lens, a rechargeable battery, and a battery charger. Being a highly functional and useful camera, it comes with awesome features, but there are minute technical issues when first getting used to the camera and it lacks a few minor features, but ultimately, the Nikon D7000 Kit is an exceptional camera for its price. The Nikon D7000 is a highly functional camera because it is easy to put together and it takes high quality photographs. Shot after shot taken with the camera's 16.2 megapixels, whether using manual focus or autofocus, produces vivid and eloquent photographs. Great DSLR cameras take amazing photographs. The camera incorporates awesome features as it is supplied with basic features as well as features you didn't know you needed. Autofocus is a basic function, but there are two types on this camera. One for moving objects and the other for still objects. Also, there is a continuous mode, which allows the user to snap six photos per second, which is nice when your subject makes subtle movements. The camera has dual memory card slots for extra storage and also, face detection. There are a few minor features the camera lacks. For instance, it does not possess panorama mode, smile mode, and is not waterproof. However, there are not many DSLR that include a waterproof feature and none that are affordable. Consequently, good cameras have standard features as well as bonus features. The D7000 contains quality video capabilities. There are a couple drawbacks, but nothing too troubling. Overall, its features over compensate for its minor negative one. The only drawbacks include: the camera does not display the light meter and the user cannot change exposure compensation, both while in video mode. However, the Nikon D7000 shoots in 1,080p and 24 frames per second. Shadow bars rest at the top and bottom of the screen to show the user that, if his/her subject does not sits within the bars, it will not be recorded. Furthermore, this camera records up to twenty minutes, while other DSLR cameras struggle to have this ability. This aspect is ideal for shooting documentaries. As mention before, the dual memory card slot, which is quite idea for video shooting and other DSLRs are not often equipped with it. A good DSLR should incorporate the ability to record in its system. The Nikon D7000 Kit is affordable. The kit is under a thousand dollars at $996.95 and is it a whole lot of camera for that price. High quality DSLRs range from $500 to $2,000. This camera is on the low end of that spectrum while still having all its amazing and standard features. Also, it comes the 18-150mm lens with a rechargeable battery and a battery charger. High quality cameras should be affordable as this one is. As the filmmaker and photographer I am, the Nikon D7000 simply wows me. It is a very practical and functional camera with great features. There are a few things would discourage someone from buying it, but they would have to be very picky about taking underwater panorama photos. For professionals and novice alike, this is a great camera kit for its price with all its special features.

Considering this camera's reputation has long been established, I figure the world doesn't need another technical review of it. As I have not owned it until now, I wanted to share my thoughts on it in a more candid manner. I was originally a Nikon shooter, first with a D80 and later the D90, but sold my D90 shortly before this camera came out because I was not impressed with the D90 and became curious about the Canon 60D, so I sold out of Nikon and bought into Canon for a while. I have no brand loyalty, I was simply out to see which suited my style. After shooting with the 60D for more than a year, I wasn't as impressed as I thought I would be, with both the camera and Canon's system. This was no fault of Canon or the 60D, it is a great camera and a great system, but it just didn't handle the way my Nikons did. I found myself having to think about the camera too much and my choice of glass left much to be desired, it was getting in the way of what I wanted to accomplish with it. So I recently sold back out of Canon and into Nikon once more with this, the D7000 paired with the 85mm f/1.8G, and was quite impressed within the first few hours of using it. I can't quite describe it other than to say that it just feels right. After spending about an hour to set everything the way I want it, I instantly recollected how wonderful it was to shoot with the D80, which back in its day was an amazing camera. The D90 in my opinion was a wasted design and probably did no one anymore good than the D80. But the D7000 is altogether a different animal. It does everything the D80 did, but faster and with a little more polish, an absolute joy to shoot. ISO performance is just awesome. I can shoot at ISO 1600-3200 with my 85 1.8G without a care for noise at all, and even 6400 looks okay. It's there, don't get me wrong, but it isn't. I can tell you that it looks a lot better than film does at ISO 800, with more dynamic range (and that's saying a lot). The AF system is awesome as well. 39 points is overkill though. I don't like AUTO AF because it chooses focus based on distance and with that many focus points, sometimes it will pick every point within the frame except the one you want. I'm not always interested in focusing on whatever is closest to me so I set the AF drive to 9-point/AF-A and have found it to be the best way to use the AF on this camera, all 9 are cross-type AF points. Essentially, it uses the center point as the primary, but allows the points around it to re-focus if you move the camera slightly, or if what you're shooting moves slightly. It stays put though when you want it to. 6 frames per second is pretty trick and I like the Q-drive, it isn't silent but it's pretty quiet and automatically turns the beeper off when set. I like it. Two card slots are probably better than one but to be honest, I only use one. It's cool that I can put two in though, for backup. And lastly, the single most impressive feature of this camera by far (IMHO) is how it works with AI/s manual focus lenses, of which I have a few. I set the non-cpu lens data for my Nikkor 55mm f/1.2, slapped it on, and not only will it tell you shutter speed AND the aperture value in A mode (which it writes to the EXIF), but the three-way focus indicator nails focus at f/1.2! Sold. That lens is impossible to focus without a split-image rangefinder or 10x zoom in live-view. It's made of magic, I swear.I like this camera, it is definitely worth every penny and 5 stars. The D7100 will be the evolution of the D7000, but do yourself a favor a wait one if you're trying to decide between it and this camera. I suspect if you're reading this review at this point, you're probably trying to decide whether to get this or the D7100. Get this one first and become proficient with it. In a few months, the D7100 will sell for a grand or less and getting it will be like using this camera only more awesome. Canon cameras at this level (DX/APS-C) just aren't as good, also in my humble opinion, and I've used both.

Auto Focus (AF). I want to provide my experience with the camera and my take on the AF situation.1. Back-focus. Some claim their units have back-focus issue. The camera does have AF fine-tune that can be used to correct the focus. But if amount of back-focus extends outside the fine-tune range, then it will require Nikon service. I'm sure there are units that do indeed back-focus and need repair. But I suspect many more users mistakenly and incorrectly attribute any AF issue with back-focus. Anyone who says their unit back-focus sometimes or % of photos, then that is not true back-focus issue. Back-focus means the AF is not calibrated correctly. It will not focus right sometimes and miss focus sometimes. So I suspect the rate of true back-focus (quality control issue) is smaller than people claim.2. Auto Focus learning curve. There is definitely learning curve on getting the D7000 to focus correctly. D7000 is very sensitive and this learning curve is steeper than expected. It will takes some practice (and possibly changing your shooting method) to get the focus consistently correct.My experience. When I first got the camera, at least 50% of my images are soft for 1 reason or another. There are out of focus images, camera shakes, subject motion (try taking photo of baby and toddler who are constantly on the move), etc. I thought I had "back-focus" issue. After doing AF test, I confirmed there is no back-focus. But there is still AF reliability. After couple months reading web forums (particularly dpreview), I finally learned the tricks on improving the AF reliability.First off, why so many people (including me) had problem with AF? My take:- 16 meg. With 16 meg, you can zoom in to 1:1 and still see quite a bit of details. So any out of focus shots will be very apparent 1:1. This might not be the case with older DSLR with less than 12 meg.- AF sensor. Web forums stated that the AF sensor size is larger than what users see in the viewfinder. This can cause confusion on exactly where the camera focuses. Sometimes the AF sensor focus on more contrasty region outside the AF box, which is not what the photographer intended.Here are the suggestion on focus:- Use 9-point dynamic AF area mode.- Use the center AF point only, rather than the other 11 or 39 AF points.The center 9 AF points are cross type, so they can focus on both vertical and horizontal features. The other AF points are either vertical or horizontal, which are not as sensitive. If using the center AF point with 9-point dynamic AF area mode, then all the center 9 cross-type AF sensors are being actively used.- Use AF-C, not AF-S. With AF-C, the focus is continuously being updated. While focus is activated, move the camera ever so slightly, so the subject (area where you want to focus on) is being moved around the AF box in the viewfinder. As you are doing this, the focus is being updated and improved. When the focus stops changing (you can hear it in the lens) even as camera is being move slightly, then you know you have focus locked. You probably don't have to do this all the time. But for subject that can move (like kids and pets), indoors (lower light), and low contrast subjects, this really helps.- Use 1/250 sec or faster shutter speeds. I was used to using 1/90 sec and sometimes down to 1/60 or 1/45 sec on P&S. There is no way I can use these low shutter speed without camera shake and blur on D7000. I basically use 1/250 sec or faster, even with VR lens. I sometimes push to 1/180 sec when needed, but I notice more blurry photos. Your mileage can vary depending on how steady your hands are. But expect to use faster shutter speeds than you are used to.- Use AF-ON. Personal taste. I just find using AF-ON with AF-C together works better.- If your lens is VR, make sure you hold the shutter button half-press for 1 sec before clicking, because it takes some time for the VR to settle. This is particularly true if you use AF-ON for focusing.Even with the AF learning curve, I still rate D7000 5 Stars. I have being using D7000 for over 1 year now. The image quality, low light performance, dynamic range, and features are just incredible. Luckily, I'm able to figure out the AF issue (or non-issue) 2-3 months after I got the camera. Now, I don't even think about the AF while shooting. I can keep my attention on the subject and framing; and enjoy the resulting images.If you don't want to deal with the AF learning curve, then stay away from D7000. Out of focus photos are no fun and there is no way to recover those images.

I've used Nikons for years and was really excited to get the D7000, in part because I could shoot video with it. I've had it for just over two years, and it just died - apparently a shutter failure, though I'm awaiting a verdict from Nikon repair. It died at 48,000 clicks - about a third of its promised life. I treat the camera with care. Needless to say, given the original cost of this camera, I'm not at all happy.My other issue: I've had focus problems with the D7000 from the start. My old D80 had rock-solid autofocus; the D7000, even when using single-point focus, never did. So for all the professional event shoots I do, I've had to manually focus the camera. Yes, that's unacceptable, but till now (with the shutter failure), I hadn't wanted to deal with Nikon service. Now I get to see if I'm one of the lucky ones when it comes to timely repair - I'll post an update when I know.Of course, the camera has many good points, including great resolution and highly customizable settings. I love the user profiles that allow me to program all the settings I need to shoot lightning, for instance, and get there with one turn of the switch. The video is pretty, though I wish it shot 1080p at 30fps (you have to go to 720 on this camera to get that frame rate; newer models remedy this issue). Serious video people will not like the lack of a headphone jack to monitor audio, but if you just want pretty shots, it does the job. (Especially if you don't pan too much, and if you can put it on a tripod and focus manually, because the autofocus is dreadful. At least on mine.) Having two SD card slots is awesome. The camera handles well. Battery life is terrific. There is a lot to like. But again, dying a third of the way through its projected life, and out of warranty, is discouraging.EDIT POST-REPAIR: I was impressed that Nikon got the camera back to me in two weeks, door-to-door. It's working very well with some heavy use, and the focus is working much better, too. In addition to the shutter mechanism replacement, Nikon's repair center adjusted the focus and cleaned the sensor. I'm happy with the camera.EDIT Aug. 11, 2013: Just four months after the April repair, my Nikon has died again. I've tried all the conventional resets, swapping out of battery, lenses and cards, and a firmware update, but it's making floppy sounds when I press the shutter button and has the "ERR" message. I am a pro and use the camera a lot, but I treat it well. It died when I was shooting photos on a tripod - it just stopped working. I'm about to try to resolve this with Nikon service, but at this point, I would NOT recommend this camera. I have downgraded the review to two stars.UPDATE Aug. 26, 2013: I have to give Nikon props for fixing the camera for free this time and getting it back to me in less than two weeks. The shutter mechanism was again replaced. Nikon's service has been good.UPDATE May 15, 2014: For this first time since I'd had the camera repaired, I attempted to do a long exposure to shoot a rocket launch a couple of months ago and realized it had a new problem: excessive green noise in long exposures. So excessive, that at 43 seconds, the frame had turned completely green. Even with a three-second exposure, the green noise starts to appear (not just color, but noise, too). Noise reduction cannot solve the problem. I shoot a lot of lightning and night shots, and I had never seen this issue before. After a frustrating exchange with Nikon's online support, which at first suggested I just shoot shorter exposures, I've now been told it has to go back in for repair. I am considering not throwing good money after bad. I will update if I get it repaired.At this point, I would not recommend the D7000.

I am a semi-professional photographer and have been shooting, with a variety of cameras, since the early 1960's. My first camera was a Kodak Brownie in 1960-or-so, followed my a Nikkormat in 1964.Since then I have had all kinds of film and digital bodies including Pentax, Nikon and Sony ultra-zooms.I had several of the earliest digital cameras, starting with the 2/3 megapixel Casio OM models, the Sony F series (great cameras in their days) and a variety of Nikon DSLRs, starting with the D70, and including the D200/300. Never went for full-frame because I shoot events, often from the back of a theater or arena, and appreciate the extra crop that comes with an APS-C sensor.But nothing, no camera I've ever owned, holds a candle to the D7000. Sometimes a manufacturer just gets everything right, and this is one of those times.DUO CARD SLOTSHaving two SD card slots means never having to say "I'm sorry". I use 2 16GB cards and when one is full, the camera switches over the other - which is only one of the two-slot options. Another is using one for photos, one for video.BATTERIESEven before receiving my D7000 body, I purchased an extra battery and worried that I might need a third. Many of my assignments require more than 1000 shots and quite a few hours on the shoot. But I'm stunned: I've never yet had the battery run out and had to switch to the second battery! In fact, I've shot multiple events without recharging between events, something I've never even considered doing with any previous camera! I don't know how they did it, but it is nothing less than amazing. I'll never forget losing shots at a New Year's fireworks display when my battery died in the middle of the show! Will never happen with the D7000.IMAGE QUALITYWhat can I say - it's the best image quality I've ever experienced, film or digital. Because many of my shoots are at low-light indoor events, I always used f/2.8 lenses and often shot wide-open at ISO 400. Result: low shutter speed and many shots lost to motion blur and the tiny depth of field of a wide-open f/2.8 aperture. Now I shoot at ISO 1600, smaller apertures, and totally acceptable shutter speeds - and I get pictures that need little post-processing and make my clients very, very happy.At ISO 1600 RAW, at a pixel level, there is a bit of noise. But it's like no noise I've ever seen before: it's so fine-grained and uniform that I can print without doing any noise reduction, or use just a hair of N/R to clean it up completely without sacrificing detail. Even my ISO 2500 shots come out better than my ISO 400 shots on the D200/D300! So impressive.AUTOFOCUSTo be honest, I was a bit disappointed, at first, at the quality of the autofocus - it was very fast, but not always accurate. I did fine-tune the AF for my lenses, which helped. But one day, on a lark, I switched from single-shot to continuous autofocus (AFC), which I rarely used in the past (with the exception of shooting sports), because I was annoyed by the lag and the number of out-of-focus shots the cameras allowed.But the D7000 is another story, entirely. I now shoot everything in AFC. It is thrilling to watch how fast the AF adjusts when you move the camera or zoom the lens - and I almost never miss focus on a shot, now. On top of that, you have predictive autofocus in AFC mode, where the camera calculates the motion of the subject and adjusts focus based on a mathematical calculation. The D7000 AF is faster and more accurate than any camera I've ever used. Bravo, Nikon!OTHER PROSThe Viewfinder is immaculate, bright and offers 100% coverage. No more framing errors! No more side-cropping needed!Video quality is excellent, though I don't use 1080p, since it can usually only be burned to Blu-Ray and my clients still want DVD presentation, so I stick to 720p. The results have been really excellent, though for best results, I recommend an external microphone setup (which I recommend for ANY serious video).CONSFor my needs and tastes, this camera has very, very few cons. I find the two-hands ISO setting to be a bit of a pain and usually have to use the menu on the LCD to accomplish it correctly.And I was a bit disappointed to discover that the artificial horizon, which I really need for stage shots, was only on the rear screen, and not in the viewfinder.It's not a big deal to me, since I shoot video at 720p/30fps, but the 1080p video only allows a frame rate of 24fps.All in all, the D7000 is the best camera I've ever owned, and its reasonable price just blows me away! I can't recommend it highly enough for anyone from a beginning DSLR user to a pro needing a second body and everyone in between. The move from the D300s to the D7000, to me, is a no-brainer.

I have had the Nikon D7000 for 2 months now and this is my 4th Nikon DSLR over the past 8 years. As I have invested thousands of US dollars in Nikon lenses I am married to the Nikon System. My previous Nikon was a D90 that was stolen New Year's Day, with the recent price drop due to the D7100 coming I took the opportunity to get the D7000. The extra $450 US I saved allowed me to get a Nikon 24mm f/2.8D lens and Meike vertical grip as well as a generic wired remote cable, all for the price of the body only D7100.If you are reading this you are in one of two camps, a current Nikon owner looking to upgrade current DSLR or someone looking to get into digital photography for the first time/getting a gift for someone else. If you are a current Nikon owner you know most of the features and advances the D7000 offers. For you the question is if the price difference between this and the D7100 is worth it. The first run of D7000 was plagued by oil splatter on the image sensor and quality control issues with the AF system. My D7000 bought in January 2013 had all the current firmware installed right out of the box but had a serious back focus issue. I took it into Nikon for repair and they fixed it in 20 minutes with a software upload. I am sure the first run of the D7100 will have some bugs to be worked out and reviewers are just starting to get their D7100's now. The D7100 has many advantages but the price is still high for "entry level" grade bodies. I personally rather save the money and use it towards lenses that will last me many future generations of camera bodies.For those looking to enter into the Nikon DSLR world or getting a gift for someone this is an excellent choice. For new users you will need to have a good basic foundation for photography and the controls needed to get great photos. This is a huge jump from point and shoots and the number, placement, and function of the controls can be overwhelming at first. If you have used 35mm film SLR cameras in the past it will be an easier translation. The D7000 has one issue needing to be known before getting. It is a high resolution and contrast camera. This requires better technique and control over the camera to get the best results. The D7000 is a serious camera and to get great pictures out of it you have to seriously use it.For those getting this for someone else the biggest thing to understand is this camera is just a piece of a larger more comprehensive system. This means there are lenses, flashes, and accessories to expand photography well beyond snapshots. The kit lenses are good for a start but the curiosity to expand into the hundreds of available lenses and accessories will soon take hold. This is an excellent camera that will serve anyone well but does require a level and degree of photography knowledge to use well. There are users who complain of image quality with this camera. Many of these are due to user error or lack of proper techniques but there is an issue with the auto focus system on some cameras. I experienced this and contacted Nikon who fixed the issue for free without any issues. I do recommend the camera but I can't rate it at 4 or 5 stars due to the AF back focus issue. For everything else this is a solid 5/5 star camera that will last for years and provide plenty of creative room to express your vision any way you like. The only real upgrade from this camera is full frame or FX format. For the most part this is academic unless you are using photography for a living. For hobbyists and people only looking to take great pictures the D7000 is the best bargain on the market at this time.

I got a GREAT deal on this camera used on Amazon. It only came with the body and cap and battery and charger, but I have multiples of the extras that come with the camera out of the factory (cables, straps). My model had just over 18k clicks when I got it, and in the past 4 days of owning it, I've put it to over 19k. I can't put the thing down.I was upgrading from a D5100 because I needed manual exposure controls for video, and I had heard loads of great things about this camera. I love that everything can be controlled by a button or dial. I can shoot so much faster now that I never have to navigate menus. I used to have my D5100 configured so I could change ISO, shutter speed and aperture all using the single command dial plus a button and I thought that was nice, but I didn't realize how limited I was until I got this. If I wanted to change AF modes, drive mode, white balance, metering mode, I'd have to hunt through menus. Now I can control every exposure/shooting function using only the camera's external controls and the top LCD. It's great.I know people complain about the lack of 30 fps in 1080, but let's face it; 30 fps is really only used in broadcast television, and approximately 0% of people who shoot for TV are shooting with a DSLR. Yeah, so higher frame rates would be nice for slow motion stuff, but if you are at a level where you're using features like that, chances are you know another video guy with something you can borrow for that shot. For 90% of my video needs, this camera satisfies. If you do mostly video though, maybe a Canon system would better suit your needs. Personally, it's about 80/20 photo/video for me, and this camera stretches my dollars much further than most. AF is useless for video, as expected, but most serious video people know that manual focus is the way to go while rolling anyway, so not a deal breaker whatsoever.For stills, AF is lightning fast, and is even great in low light. Silent focusing with all my AF-S lenses, and still pretty quiet on my 50 1.8 AF D as well as the couple of AF zooms I've used on it.Since I've only used this camera for a few days, I'll end it there and keep this review updated in the coming months after more use.

I've had the pleasure of owning a Nikon D7000 for close to a month now, paying a hefty premium over the MSRP due to its limited availability. The camera I have used before this is a Lumix GH2 which I like a lot. I have been using my GH2 to do professional work for clients with quite a bit of success, which is why I decided to get a D7000.A lot of these reviews either echo what you can find on digicam review sites, or they compare it to other Nikon models. Why am I comparing it to a GH2? Because I own both and therefore I can, and I'm going to bet that there are people who are in the market for a camera and may be considering either the D7K or the GH2...so lets see how they stack up.Camera Body Build-------------------In terms of ruggedness the D7000 has the advantage. Its magnesium frame (it's not made entirely from metal as some people believe) provides a high level of strength without adding to its bulk too much. It feels solid; the GH2 is entirely plastic and feels "plasticy", but it doesn't have a cheap feel. The GH2 does allow for a firm grip to prevent blurry photos. The D7K and certain lenses have "weather sealing" which help to keep dust and debris out of the camera and the GH2 has none of that.The GH2 is a mirrorless micro 4/3 camera where light weight and compact size is intended. The lack of a mirror means there's one less fragile CRITICAL element that can break if the camera is dropped - despite having a rugged body, the mirror in the D7K can be damaged if the camera takes a good hit...almost like having an egg "protected" by a steel box, but no padding in the box.For sheer exterior ruggedness the D7K wins, but the GH2 being lighter and not relying no a mirror means it can stand up to some "minor abuse" without damage.Buttons and Ergonomics-------------------The D7K has a lot of buttons placed on the back and front sides of its body, plus a few on top. You might even say it has "too many" buttons. Much like a video game controller or keyboard, once you get used to the button positions you can quickly and efficiently change various settings on the fly. Things like exposure, ISO, white balance can be adjusted by holding down the appropriate button and using the selector wheel to set the desired option.The GH2 takes a more advanced approach to feature management. While it does have buttons for common functions like white balance and ISO, almost all of the settings can be changed using the "Q Menu" button right on the screen. It also allows you to map the function buttons however you want (the D7K has this feature too).One of the GH2's major assets is an articulating touch-screen LCD. While it may sound like a gimmick, you can easily set the focal point just by touching the screen. You can even take pictures by tapping the screen, and it will focus on the area you tap. Similar functionality on the D7K requires fiddling around with the focusing area and metering type buttons, and does not provide that level of flexibility.Both cameras give you an amazing level of control over the pictures you take, but I feel that the GH2's approach is a lot more intuitive and fun. The articulating touchscreen is dearly missed and if the D7K had one, it would really unlock its potential.Viewfinder and LCD Screen-------------------The D7000 has a higher resolution LCD screen, and it is quite nice, but it's not very useful beyond previewing images and changing menu settings. Taking pictures with the D7000 happens through its optical viewfinder.In the past, I would have said that an optical viewfinder is a desirable feature, but in the age of digital cameras it is an obsolete element that should be phased out. The GH2 features an EVF (electronic viewfinder) which means that the image you see in the viewfinder is exactly what you will end up with after taking a shot.The EVF in the GH2 has a higher resolution than the its own LCD screen as well as the LCD screen on the D7000, so it is very accurate and sharp...plus you gain the ability to see realtime info such as a histogram and exposure settings displayed while looking through the viewfinder. The optical viewfinder on the D7000 is "full frame", which means you are able to view the entire frame of the photo through the viewfinder, but it is dim compared to the EVF and the lack of realtime info means you have to either check the LCD screen or the digital readout to see what's what.The EVF, along with the GH2's touchscreen capabilities give it a solid lead in usability, making it a very "fast" camera in terms of getting the shot you want without having to mess around with settings.Lenses and Image Quality-------------------This is where things get dicey...and you may think it's a slam dunk for the D7000 considering that still pictures are really all it is good for, but that's not the case.First of all, the POTENTIAL quality with the D7000 is much higher than the GH2. The D7K has a wider effective dynamic range in both brightness and color gamut, and the pictures it takes a

I bought this camera in this thanks giving, I had a very hard time comparing it to Nikon D5200if you are reading this review then probably you are comparing them both as well, specially that D5300 is now released as well.first of all I have to say that all three cameras deliver extremely high quality images and work with same types of lenses.well, the D7000 is a really serious camera, the difference between the three cameras in the specs is known and you can easily find it on Nikon's website, but the real difference is in controls.the D7000 has less resolution, but that didn't matter to me, 16.1 mb is a huge resolution anyway ... of course 24 mb is better but 16.1 is really more than enough.the real advantages of this camera are:1- it has internal focus motor, which allows you to buy extremely cheap lenses, all nikkor lenses work with it, so you can buy used old lenses or AF lenses for half the price you will have to pay for an AF-S lens.2- it has a really professional body size and form factor. its magnesium alloy, that makes it durable and feels better in your hand.3- Controls, Controls, Controls.... simply this is the closest to a professional camera, you can finish all your photoshoot without using the monitor. you can change almost all settings without accessing the menu or wasting your time trying to find items in the extensive Nikon menu system4- it has two dials front and back , which allows you to control things much faster and easier.5- the top LCD ... its a really big plus, makes you know exactly what you want when you want it6- view finder, really much better than d5200 and d53007- the battery lasts for ever, I shot 700 Jpeg images and it still had 71% of its charge, with raw, it lasts for almost 800 shots.8- it has two storage slots, and that's really a great plus, this helps with storing jpeg in one and raw in the other or keeping a backupand much morecons: .... its a DX camera ... its not full frame, but its really close to the full frame qualitynotes:1- it comes with a screen protector2- it doesn't come with memory card so you will need to buy one separately, so you can start shooting once you receive the camera3- make sure that any case you will buy will be big enough for itbottom line, this is a serious camera, if you are buying it to shoot your dog, you probably would better get the d3200 or d 5200but if you are planning to advance in photography, I really recommend this camera, its really a great choice, I have it for three month now, and I already bought a couple more lenses and some filters and accessories and I'm loving what I get from it

I have been old-school for all of my years of photography. I have probably over 1,000 if not 2,000 film photos (I would have to go back and manually count becuse I have lost some over the years and various people have gone through, moved, taken, etc... them). My wife bought a hybrid Canon S3 is camera about 7 years ago. It is a pretty nifty little camera. It takes long exposures and has various shooting modes, but has a fixed (zoom) lens and only a few bells and whistles. I was hoping that we would get to go for another trip to Peru for my birthday, but, alas, finances... For my consolation prize, I finally upgraded to a true dSLR- the Nikon D7000 DSLR to go with my lenses (mainly Nikkor). I received it about 9 days ago. I started reading the manual, but at 300+ pages, finally decided to dive in. I read how to set-up the camera and went for it. Over the years, I have pretty much decided that I like aperature-preferred shooting except for shooting B&W infrared. I used a hand-held light meter and had to set the shutter speed manually for that. Anyway, back to the D7000. It has an shutter speed from 1/8,000th (!!!) of a second all the way to the equivalent to cable release. You do need a remote to take full advantage of this. Holding the shutter button down manually or even just pressing twice can cause all kinds of havoc on long exposures. The "bulb" setting allows you to totally override the shutter speed regardless of lighting conditions. This camera will do pretty much anything an old-school film SLR can do. It has about every bell and whistle you can imagine or want. So far I have been happy with the results and the images are clear and sharp. I have yet to take full advantage of everything. In the half-week I have been playing with it, I have shot in aperature-priority mode for pretty much all of my shots. I have played with the D-lighting, ev values, and a couple of other features. I am really excited about trying out the continuous high-speed mode (up to 100 photos by holding down the shutter- you won't have to worry about camera shake at 1/8,000th of a second! lol) and the strobe-effect flash. I might try to see if the two options can be done at high shutter speeds. The only downsides that I have found so far are that it is DX-format (not really its fault, it is what it is); light output of flash is lame; even at the high D-light setting; there is really not much of an increase in contrasting detail (will have to experiment more); some of the commands are not intuitive (with as many options as it has, not too surprising); and a really weird thing happened while I was photographing the moon, Venus, and Jupiter conjuction. When I gave the ev value a positive response (even at 0.3!), the moon ghosted on another part of the frame.(?!?) I will have to do some research to see whether it is the camera, the lens, or maybe even just the angle of the shot. These issues are the only reasons that I did not give this 5 stars are because of the flash and the mysterious ghosting in that one series of shots. In conclusion, with the shots I have tried (and I have played with more settings than some people ever will), this appears to be a VERY solid dSLR. This is a great dSLR and the flash is the main limiting factor for this level of camera. This can be remedied by using an SB-700 or other flash, but having to shell out more money kind of sucks. I have absolutely no regrets with this purchase. The packaging was great and Amazon shipped it out quickly. It comes with nice accessories such as an eyepiece cover (useful for those long exposures). With things like exposure lock, focus lock, white balance, being able to do post-editing within the camera (better than using outside software), and quite a few other features, this camera will keep even the most serious amatuer happy. You might consider going for the FX version at another $1K, but that is the cost of a good Nikkor lens, for not THAT much of an upgrade. At that point, you might as well go for the D800E. Unless you are a professional photographer, you would buy a Nikon D4, this camera is a GREAT value for its price. Enjoy and fill up that 32 gig memory card of which you can have TWO at once!!! I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend this camera and would buy this camera again.

Last Update: February 25, 2012 - Five months and counting. Three times to the shop. Same issue.I upgraded from a D3000 to a D7000 this year. The capabilities of the camera had sold me and I wasn't quite ready to jump into full frame. But after taking several pictures, I realized that the pictures were soft. So I went looking online and found plenty of posts about backfocus issues with the D7000. I broke out my D3000 and put it on a tripod in my kitchen and took one of my kids homework papers and stuck it on a cabinet. I took pictures, put them up in lightroom and blew them up by the same factor. Sure enough, My D3000 at 10MP had a sharper image than my D7000 at 16MP Checked all of the settings twice.I created a ticket with Nikon and uploaded some images. They didn't look at them and I had no response for days. I finally called and asked for them to look at it. They said they would look at them within 48 hours of sending the pics. I responded they had been up there for several days. I was then put on hold and the person came back and said it would be 24 hours.Fine. 2 days later, no call, no email. I call back, I get apologies about them being busy. The person looks at the pictures and asks for me to send more.3 more days, no response. I finally get frustrated and take a comparison shot between two cameras to make it clear what the difference is. I upload that. Still no response.I finally call back and am told that they are not sure what the issue is but I can send in the camera if I want to. (Really?)So I send in the camera. I forget to include the receipt so I call up and ask how I can add the receipt. This person is helpful and courteous and gives me the info. I upload the receipt and wait.8 days later, no response. Nothing. Bupkis. I call and ask if they have the camera. Why yes they do, and it will be $169 for the repair... No explanation of what is wrong, no question of when I bought it. I said "Wait, the camera is under warranty." This person responds, "well there is no receipt on the ticket". I asked, "did you look at the ticket?" There is a pause, and then she says, "These are all pictures" (Obviously Nikon hires rocket scientists) My response, "take a look at the second to the last file that says D7000.pdf". Her response, "We will need to certify that the repair is under warranty".So now it is the day before Thanksgiving, at least I have my D3000 but the fact that Nikon has this kind of quality control issue, and then follows up with a crap customer service experience that can only be eclipsed by Hewlett Packard is just unbelievable.So if you do buy this camera, take some pictures, look at the detail. If the edges look soft and fuzzy, take it back before your time runs out for a refund like mine did.Update Nov 25:This is service?Remember where the lady above said that they were going to need to certify that the repair is under warranty? Well I called today to get an idea of when the camera would come back. She didn't update the ticket. The guy asked me for proof of purchase. *sigh* I asked for a supervisor and made it clear that this kind of customer service was unacceptable. We'll see what happens.At least I know what the repair is, it seems there is something wrong with the focusing motor and they have replaced it.Update Jan 1:Camera back, still soft pictures.So I get back from my international travel on Dec 16 and finally get to test out the camera. Result? Same issue is happening sporadically. I can get it to reliably focus manually and take good pictures so it's not mechanical. It could be variability in the motor or a sensor issue or even software. It's difficult to replicate twice in a row. But take a critical shot like my father in law heading back to LA after Christmas vacation and the whole shot is out of focus. The focal point is right, the lighting is fine, no good reason for it.Tomorrow I raise another call. I hope that I can simply get it exchanged, even for a rebuilt model.Update Jan 5:Going around in circlesRaised another call. Agent asks me what the aperture and speed settings are at. We discuss camera settings for a bit. Do a reset. I take more pictures. Same issue. He asks me to do an upload. The ticket isn't enabled so I figured he would just open it up later so I can upload imagesUpdate Jan 8:Waiting on the service deskCall is still not opened up so I can update images. I call in today and the agent is sending me shipping labels so I can send in the camera *again*. I am going to call Visa and see if they can get the camera replaced.Update Jan 9:Still not workingVisa only comes into the picture once the 1-year warranty ends. I haven't received the shipping labels yet, so I decided to methodically test the focusing issues. I set up a tripod and various items in front of the camera with writing on them to see how it picked something to focus on and if the focal points matched up with the picture. Very often, where the came

First off, let me state that I have had a long and interesting journey through the world of DSLRs and have gone from Pentax to Canon and have finally settled in with Nikon. I have shot probably 15 or more different bodies with multiple light setups and lens combinations. So, what about the Nikon D7000 in mind warrants the title to this review....? Simply put, it's the most professional feeling and functioning "pro-sumer" camera I have laid my hands on.Let me break it down a bit:Body and Ergonomics: I have fairly large hands and like to grasp something solid when shooting. Nikon did not disappoint here making the body from Magnesium for sturdiness and heft, while also making it big enough for me to hold comfortably (Note: I still bought the Nikon MB-D11 as I like to shoot in portrait position often). All of the button and dials are convenient, tactile and well made. The 150k shutter rating also helps to solidify the toughness of this camera. I can definitely see this camera putting up with many years of solid use and abuse.LCD: Yes, I gave the LCD it's own bullet point. MY GOD!!!! This thing is just too sharp! I know that you have probably read about the resolution of the screen above, but it just does not hit home until you start reviewing your shots on it. I have NEVER used a DSLR with a screen this crisp. Just believe me, it's amazing.AF: 39 points....What else is there to say? This thing tracks quickly and picks up the right points almost all of the time. I have no issues with any of the lenses that I am using (Note: Nikon lenses are generally always going to work better with the Nikon AF system, but there are Third party lenses that perform just fine).2 SD Card Slots: Talk about a GOD send!! This cam take 16.2 MPX JPEGS and who knows how large the RAWs can get. We need all the storage/redundancy we can get. The D7000 allows you to choose that in the settings. AWESOME!!!CLS: This is one of the major things that turned me over to Nikon. Their take on lighting is just so amazing and this camera uses all of the same functions that you would get on any of Nikon's top FX cameras. I love off-camera lighting and having the Nikon CLS system is second to NONE!High ISO: Ok, I know that the camera will go up to 6400 (or even 25800 equiv.), but what is usable? Well, that largely depends on the photographer and what he/she is shooting, but to be honest for me all the way up to 1600 is easily usable. I would even go so far as to say 3200 looks great for viewing online or even some print sizes. Really, this sensor will BLOW you away with how well it renders low light scenes and details.Well, what are the negatives you ask? I will say this much....This is NOT a beginners camera. When I hand it to my wife, she generally just stares blankly back at me and says, "ok what do you want me to do now?" There are so many features and functions to explore that I cannot even begin to describe them all nor have I even found them all yet. Needless to say, if you are looking for simple, this is not your camera.Also, this thing is not light at ALL!! If you are looking for compact and unobtrusive, look elsewhere. This thing is a HUNK of metal and plastic.Overall, I am excited to have this one in the family and it is now my "go to" body for pretty much anything!!

Just like a lot of others, I too got a camera with the notorious back focus 'problem'! .But I was not worried because, before deciding on D7000 I did a search and found that back focus or front focus issue is not a specific D7000 (or Nikon) issue. Canon, Pentax, Sony, Olympus...they all have similar 'issues' and most of their prosumer or high-end cameras come with an in-camera option to address this, just like the one there is present in D7000. (They use different terminology though..Nikon calles it AF Fine tune; Canon/Sony - AF Micro Adjustment; Olympus - AF Focus Adjust; Pentax - AF Fine Adjustment etc). Also, I understood that there are a lot of kits available in the market to help this calibration/fine tuning (Datacolor SpyderlensCal for example). So, fine tuning looked like something that is not uncommon with pro-prosumer type camera bodies.I do not know whether this is to be seen/called as a 'problem' or not....Because this also could be viewed as having 'more control' over our gear, at some point. I did not face any back focus issue with my D5100 (or my Canon T2i), so, there indeed was a moment of frustration when I got a camera that looks somewhere else when I ask it to 'look there'.Personally, I find this as a pain than a problem because I had to fine tune two of my lenses (a 35mm 1.8 and a 16-85mm (both were bought used)...third one, a 55-300 mm auto focuses just fine without any fine tuning). So, should one stay away from D7000 because of this terrible back focus 'problem'? Nope... D7000 might back focus when paired with some lenses but at the same time, the camera comes with a built-in feature to address this concern. If that fails to resolve the issue, then, ONLY then, it becomes a problem.There are more than enough blogs/videos related to 'how to do AF fine tuning' hence I am skipping 'how I fixed it' part...but I would like to mention that checking/enabling the 'Focus Point' (that can be found under 'Disply Mode' in PLAYBACK MENU) before taking the fine tuning test shots makes it bit easy (because, at the time of playing it back, it would show where exactly we had focused).A few things (among the many) I liked about D7000:1. Excellent, durable build quality2. Great picture quality3. More direct controls4. Brighter view finder with 100% coverage5. Long battery life6. Two memory card slots7. Decent video8. User control over fps (personal preference. I have one of the shakiest hands in the world and hence I often shoot more than one frame whenever I shoot critical shots. Many a time, 6fps is wasting memory by filling the card with similar shots, especially considering D7K's low buffer)What I did not like:1. Position of the ISO button (I wish it was on the top, just like my (wonderful) Canon T2i)2. Low buffer3. Plasticky LCD cover(It is to be noted that this is neither a beginner camera nor designed for people with no patience and hence one should not expect great shooting experience straight out of the box with any lens attached to it. Being said that, if a beginner is patient, not intimidated by some extra buttons, ready to read the boring user manual (this is very important) and want to learn photography, then D7000 has everything one need to learn photography or even make a living).Overall, I am pretty happy that I bought this camera...Awesome camera.(Wish to give 4.5 stars but that is not possible hence giving 5 stars)

I purchased this camera bundle in anticipation of a big European excursion, which I would like to document photographically. I enjoy shooting landscapes, architecture, and wildlife. After a lot of research, I decided on the D7000 as an upper level consumer camera, and the 18-200mm lens as a versatile lens solution for all the situations I anticipated.The camera itself is phenomenal. The viewfinder is vivid and clear, everything responds nicely, and it's solid. It's weighty, but not too much, which makes sense with the metal body. The built-in flash works well, even with the long lens (though I haven't tested how it casts shadows at the largest zoom). The only issue I've had is probably more an issue of getting used to a couple nuances of the camera. There are settings for being able to shoot without focus for two of the autofocus modes, but not for AF-A, so you have to fiddle with a button or tweak the focus ring slightly before the camera will respond to the shutter button.Thus far, the lens has been great as well. I was expecting it to be bigger than it is. It extends to a reasonable length, but still not that big, and at 18mm, it's a very manageable size. Some reviews show pincushion and barrel distortion from 150-200mm or so, which is visible when shooting architectural targets with many parallel or perpendicular lines. I haven't shot such scenes yet, and haven't noticed it in other shots, but there are software updates of some kind out for the lens/nikon software things that will automatically correct it, apparently.I haven't gotten to use the instructional booklets (other than the manual) yet, so I can't comment on those.The only issue that's at all concerning is with the supplied memory card. It's a SanDisk class 10 16 gig stick, which I have paired with an equivalent Team Group card. I have been shooting RAW+JPEG, which writes raw to one card and jpeg to the other. Two or three times, the camera has stopped me during shooting (flashing error in the viewfinder, card error or something on the little display lcd), saying that the first memory card (SanDisk) has errored. Sometimes it'll be fixed by turning the camera off and on, sometimes it'll quit complaining and just show the second memory card as being inserted. If I take the card out and put it back in, it'll read it and continue. I'm hoping it's just some weird thing with the memory card, not with the memory slot in the camera.*update* As I've shot a greater variety of photos, I've noticed several gradiations of grey spots in the upper area of my pictures. They are only really obvious when shooting solid background colors, such as a blue sky. A number of reviews at various places indicated they'd had to send the body back to nikon for cleaning, because the sensor had oil spots or something similar from manufacturing that wouldn't go away with an in-camera sensor clean. I tried a series of cleans and test shots and found they went away, or I thought they did, until they showed up again later. It could also be in the inner pieces of glass in the lens for me, though I'm not sure, as I don't have multiple lenses to try. It's a bit late to send in for repairs now, since I have a trip upcoming, but that's something to keep in mind--test with various types of shots and send it in while you can if you need to.

I am a photography teacher in NYC and online. (See my Amazon profile for my website.) I teach beginner and intermediate photography students every week. I've also been a professional photographer for the last five years with images published in The New York Times, GQ, New York Magazine, Women's Wear Daily, The New York Observer, The Village Voice and Time Out New York.(This review is for beginner photographers.)If you're a beginner, you're most likely asking yourself: Nikon or Canon? Really, I feel confident in saying that you can't go wrong with either. I've used both brand's cameras extensively and find that they both offer amazing image quality with well-built, solid cameras that, if taken care of, will last decades. There are two differences between the cameras, though, that can be taken into consideration.The user-interface: If cameras were computers, Nikons would be PCs and Canons would be MACs. PCs are built for people not afraid of technology whereas Macs are built for people who want things super-easy. Nikons excel at customization options which means you'll see so many more options with the Advanced features of a Nikon than you will with a Canon. Canons, on the other hand, excel at ease-of-use for beginners. Canons offer less advanced options and can be easier to learn on. This can be frustrating down the line, though, once you've learned a lot about photography. At that point you may want all of the options that Nikon offers and be frustrated with your Canon. If you're someone who really likes to delve deep into your hobbies or if you're intent on becoming a professional photographer, I'd say a Nikon would be your best bet. If you're someone who wants to learn the basics of photography and only imagine yourself being a hobbyist, Canon would be a better option for you.Where Nikon excels: Flash photography. I often find myself in situations where I'm shooting event photography (weddings, movie premiers, benefits and galas) where I need to use a lot of flash. For this kind of photography, I'll always prefer to be shooting with a Nikon. Nikon's flash metering (how the camera magically decides how much light to fire out of the flash) is much more consistent than Canon's. You can take a Canon and shoot the same scene three times in a row with flash and all three images will be at different brightness levels. You can do the same thing with a Nikon and all three images will be wonderfully the same. If you're somebody who plans on shooting a lot with flash (indoor photography, event photography, etc.) you'll want to consider going with Nikon.Where Canon excels: Richness of colors. I've been in numerous situations where I've been on the red carpet taking the exact same picture as the photographer next to me. I'll have a Canon and the person next to me will have a Nikon. This has provided quite a few opportunities to compare the images side-by-side. What I've found is that the colors on the Canon's images look richer and make the image pop more. If I'm doing fine art photography (anything I'd like to someday hang in a gallery), I'll always want to be shooting with a Canon for this reason.If you're set on Nikon, there are three cameras you should be considering and it all comes down to what your budget is:D7000 $1,400 without lensD5100 $750 without lensD3100 $600 only available with lens(current prices as of 2/19/11)Here's what you get for spending extra money (each camera compared to the one below it):D3100 vs. D5100:The D3100 is an EXCELLENT camera so if you only have $550 to spend total on camera and lens then go out and buy this camera. You won't regret it. If you're considering spending more money, here's what you'll get from the D5100 in comparison:-Better performance in low light situations.-A higher resolution screen on the back of the camera so you can see your images more clearly and make out if they actually turned out well.-An external mic jack. (If you're planning on shooting video with an external mic, you'll want the D5100 over the D3100.)-A flip out screen (handy if you want to put your camera anywhere but at your eye level and be able to see what your camera is about to capture before you shoot it)-Faster continuous shooting. If you're often shooting sports or any fast moving subject, continuous shooting allows you to capture multiple images in a single second. The D3100 shoots at three frames per second whereas the D5100 shoots at four frames per second.-Higher ISO options. The D5100 offers one more stop of ISO than the D3100 does. If you don't know what ISO means (or what a stop is) just know that this allows you to more easily shoot images in low-light situations.-Longer battery life. The D5100's battery will last 20% longer than the D3100The two advantages of the D3100 over the D5100 are: less expensive and less weight. Whenever a camera is less expensive, it means you'll have more in your budget for the lens. The D3100 weighs 10% lighter and is 10% smaller than the D5100.D5100 vs. D700

========================================================================Bottom-line: the greatest trick Nikon's marketing department ever pulled========================================================================------------------------------------------------------------------------Quick summary (see below for more details)------------------------------------------------------------------------**** see update at the end ****The Nikon D7000 is NOT the best APS-C DSLR in the market.After taking thousands of pictures with the D7000, I have concluded that:* It produces soft images* For ISO 200-1600 the IQ is inferior to the D90* For (1600 > ISO <= 4000) the IQ is better than the D90* For any ISO above 200 the IQ is inferior to that of the D700* For ISO 100 the dynamic range is superb* It's not really a robust camera in terms of build quality (the D300s, D700 are)* The AF system is just average, on par with the D90 and well below the D700* The raw files are prone to develop artifacts very quicklyAnd on the plus side...* It has a magnificent dynamic range at ISO 100* It has some nice features (micro AF adjustment tops the list for me)========================================================================Review========================================================================------------------------------------------------------------------------3 important preliminary notes------------------------------------------------------------------------Target audienceThis review is mainly intended for the user of cameras such as the D90, D5000, and D80 that is considering this camera against alternatives like the D700 and D300s. Probably the owner of the D60/40/3000 may also find something useful.A word about videoI don't care at all about video. Video is a completely useless feature for me. I only care about stills and this review completely disregards video capabilities and features. So please, keep that in mind for the bits where you will read things like "better in every aspect".Foundations of this reviewI'm keen amateur photographer. I put a great deal of effort, love, and attention into this craft and I consider myself a photographer -an amateur photographer but a photographer nonetheless. I have extensively used the D700, D7000, D90, D5000, D40, D60 and to a much lesser extent other bodies (such as Sony, Canon). Thus, I'm basing this review on actual and extensive experience with those cameras and from patient comparison of same-subject shots taken under same conditions.------------------------------------------------------------------------Why I bought this camera------------------------------------------------------------------------I decided to try this camera as it was a virtually risk-free exercise. A friend was travelling back to the US and I can sell it second hand at almost the same price in London. So, I decided to give it a go.The number 1 reason I considered this camera was because it offered micro-AF adjustment. I do a lot of low light shooting and shallow depth-of-field shots so AF accuracy is very, very important for me. Let me be clear about one thing: I don't have any problem whatsoever with the AF in the D90 with Nikkor lenses. I do however have problems with third-party lenses (see my review of the Sigma 24 f/1.8 for an example).The second reason why I decided to give this camera a try was the dynamic range. I love the colours and contrast offered by bright sunny days and sunsets as much as I hate white skies resulting from poor dynamic range.In all honesty, I didn't have any other reasons to justify this camera.I also knew that the extra 4MP would most likely render noisier images without any meaningful/observable increase in resolution.I also didn't care at all about the (partial) alloy frame, mild weather sealing, video, and the double card thing.------------------------------------------------------------------------Reality check: the distance between marketing and actual performance------------------------------------------------------------------------Let's start with the good.Remember what I told you about my reasons to try this camera? Yes, (1) Micro-AF adjustment, and (2) dynamic range. Well, let me tell you that it delivered in both counts.I'm very happy with the micro AF adjustment. I can now use third-party lenses without spending too much time manually focusing to get sharp images. Great. Excellent.Next: dynamic range. I knew the extra dynamic range would show up only at ISO 100, and it did. Fantastic. A clear 1 (1 1/3 I would say) extra stop which results in a meaningful, observable, and delightful, improvement in my landscape photography.If you just give me a D90 with those extra features (micro AF and expanded dynamic range) I would buy it in a heartbeatNow, let's move on to the rest...------------------------------------------------------------------------Noise------------------------------------------------------------------------Let's start with the elephant in the

I've owned my d7000 for just under one year (Purchased, 1/2013) and absolutely love it! As the lifetime owner of several Canon camera's I felt the need to go outside the line despite the fact that I had invested heavily in Canon glass and accessories. I looked at several options, the Sony A77, the Sony A99 (Full Frame), the Nikon D800, and the Nikon D600 all of which were perfectly capable camera's. I did extensive research reading written reviews as well as watching video reviews paying close attention to how the camera's stack up against one another in an attempt to help narrow my search. Second, I decided to take a trip to the local camera shops so that I could physically hold each camera and get a feel for them individually. I really liked the Sony line because I felt they offered the biggest bang for the buck. My only problem was that I was not sold on the electronic viewfinder and less than desirable battery life that accompanied that particular technology. I resumed my search and although I did like the full frame options from Nikon I didn't want to plunge into the new system head first. This is when I came across the D7000 and really never looked back. All the reviews were positive and this camera had a lot to offer for the dollar. Solid construction, dual memory card slots, wide lens selection, and extremely good image quality. These are just a few of the tricks up this camera's sleeve! Within a few days of holding this camera and debating I decided to purchase the camera (Body Only) and order the 35mm 1.8 separate with a battery grip and speed light. I have since added several more lenses to the arsenal and couldn't be happier with my choice. The color this camera render's (particularly when shooting raw) is nothing short of astonishing! I use this camera in a multitude of shooting scenario's and it handles like a champion. I would recommend this camera to anyone who is looking for a professional grade camera that they can grow with. It suitable for use by Advanced Beginner's through Professionals. This is one of the best camera's you can buy in this price range hands down.