Отзывы о Дисковая пила Worx WX437, 800 Вт
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Worx WX437, 800 Вт?
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I found three more significant problems with the saw.
1. The setting for the cut depth is a hand locked lever. This can work loose while cutting so that the depth of cut increases. It is best to ensure some scrap beneath or you will saw into your bench or kitchen table.
2. The width of cut is set by a metal arm with a plastic end. There are two problems with this.
(Α) Τhe plastic end is moulded into the metal arm with two small inserts. These will break after a few weeks of use.
(B) The metal arm can be locked with an Allen screw which holds the arm tight but moves the arm as the Allen screw is turned. You will spend your life trying to get the gauge set to the nearest m.m.
I expected better for my money.
Most of these issues are common to all these sort of tools, and this is certainly one of the best, but I feel it could be improved. On a positive note, the carry case is well-designed and sturdy, and doesn't have the catches which break off after a few uses.
However, like most users I tried to use the saw like I use my 1800W circular saw and indeed I too found the blade wandered from true even when using a straight edge as a guide. At first I thought this was because my hand pushing the saw with the blade at full depth of the work piece through the cut was positioned behind the blade and that the slightest deviation from the straight edge by me would result in an unsatisfactory cut. The blade jammed. In fact the blade did slip on one occasion. I was cutting 18mm birch ply. Whilst the blade is sharp and the machine turns fast, it does not have the same torque as my 1800W circular saw, nor should I expect it to. The vibration feedback will using the machine told me I was pushing it machine or blade beyond its limits cutting this material.
I then adjusted my technique. Instead of trying to achieve the cut in one single pass I found I could achieve accurate cuts running the blade depth at half depth using a straight edge as a guide. Allowing the blade to cut without pushing the machine too hard, the forces and vibration acting on the blade and the machine were noticeably less. Running the next pass with the blade just past full depth of the work piece resulted in sharp clean cuts on both the topside and underside of the work requiring very little with a hand plane.
Using this technique I have consistently achieved good clean accurate cuts of over 2.4 metre lengths, requiring very little corrective work if any and was able to complete all my cuts through the birch ply to build the sides, doors and drawers for a wardrobe.
I have found 1” thick MDF can be cut in a single pass with no issues or defects.
When cutting timber like pine shelving boards, again I found no issue. Cutting 2” x 4” framing timber may need the multi-pass approach if the wood is knotty and you are looking for a precise cut.
If you try to twist the machine in the cut, the blade will jam. If you nip the blade in the cut between the work piece sides without supporting them properly, the blade will jam. This is after all a 700W machine.
I have no particular brand loyalty and pick machines on their merits. This particular saw is very good for light work where a 1800W brute would do more damage than good. Used with a straight edge guide and clamping everything down safely, clean crisp cuts can be achieved consistently.
Pay attention to the material you are cutting, plan the cuts properly and with a little time and understanding of the behaviour and performance of the machine which can only come with experience, you can achieve good cuts with this machine.
One last thing, I do not rely or have ever used the laser. It was setup in a factory and shipped, then delivered. It is not unreasonable to expect the laser to be out of alignment.
Unlike a full-size circular saw this was controllable and could be set to precisely cut the overlaid boards without ripping the underlying surface, and it made easy work of restoring damaged skirting boards with somewhat eccentric angles. Used freehand on material in situ (like a vibrating saw - Wilco rather than Worx, but still very effective) I got a neat result with a minimum of mess, noise and foul language.
As an Amazon Warehouse deal was available I went for it and so got a substantial reduction (enough pay for the Worx 44 tooth cross-cut blade). The only missing item was a dust extraction adapter (a little piece of plastic tubing intended to bridge the gap between a 20mm diameter extraction port and a 'standard' vacuum cleaner hose, whatever that is) and a printed manual.
Since Worx make the manuals available in PDF the lack of instructions wasn't a biggie and if I desperately need to extract the dust some day I suspect a little work with some 20mm hose, a jubilee clip and some duct tape will work as well (if not better).
The standard (already fitted) fitted 24 tooth Tungsten Carbide blade cut very cleanly despite having self-evidently been used previously by a previous customer who forgot the cardinal rule of power tools - let the motor do the work - and from the burning and scoring said customer tried to force a full-depth cut through a plank in one go.
However that turned out when treated with respect both the blade and power tool did their respective jobs, indicating both are quality items what can stand a little abuse now and then, but If you invest in a precision mini-saw, take my advice: let the machine do the work as forcing the thing will only result in tears before bedtime, where making several cuts at increasing depth takes little extra time but greatly reduces the frustration-factor, not to say acting-out and cussing ocassioned by waiting for the overheat protection circuit to re-set.
The only part of the job that required the full-size saw was a pair of matching 45 degree cuts to form an 'outside' mitre joint, something the a small handy tool like this simply isn't built for.
And this saw is amazing. If you ain't ordered yours yet WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR!!! I fitted out 3 bedrooms today with engendered wood flooring and it cut like butter through every board. My mitre saw didn't even make it out the van today all I needed was this. it then ploughed it's way through 3 moulded doors all in seconds. So my plunge saw wasn't needed either due to the larger cut capacity, it's great for all applications.
So when I got Home I tried cutting a solid kitchen worktop! it just cut straight through, straight and true which I was surprised due to the blades being so thin. This will now be in the tool bag for every use.
Everyone use's tools differently, but use it right and it will perform and this is amazing no need for a gym work out with heavy circular saws this saw is balanced perfectly and you'll want to use it for every pro or DIY job.
Just updating as have now experienced jamming ...... there seems to be two causes .1. if the timber is damp the exhaust blocks and packs around the blade .2. a change in timber density, for example, a knot or associated hardness.






