Отзывы о Дисковая пила Worx WX437, 800 Вт
154 отзывов пользователей o Worx WX437, 800 Вт
Пользовались
Worx WX437, 800 Вт?
Поделитесь своим опытом и помогите другим сделать правильный выбор
It just goes to show that you really should ignore most Amazon reviews, ironic i know.
The two pics included show that this saw cuts perfectly fine and straight, I'm pretty unfit and was stooped over cutting this practically free hand so I don't know why other users are having trouble. I've come to the conclusion they may have had the wrong blade in, the blade in backwards or they just don't know how to use power tools.
For just under €100 this is a great addition to the tool chest. The job in the pictures is a 12mm deep cut approx 8 metres long and I couldn't have hoped for any better. I am tiling the bathroom soon and have no doubt this saw will cut tiles just as well, (with the correct blade).
The vacuum attachment doesn't fit the henry hoover very well, or at all in fact, so I assume most vacuums. but no matter what cutting job you have to do, you'll vacuum afterwards anyway so it's not an issue for me.
I did not think it came with a guide but it does. Easy to use and cuts very cleanly, easy to operate with one hand. High quality tool, good case.
Only thing that I think would be an improvement, and this is a tiny niggle, I'm being very critical now, is you have to squeeze up an Allen key nut to lock the guide -supplied and stores at the end if the handle. Although if they put a wing nut on it, it would be bigger and get in the way. So they have done the right thing.
I would happily recommend this to all, worth every penny and looks to me like it will last many years. I could not be happier.
Delivery reliably speedy as always.
I found three more significant problems with the saw.
1. The setting for the cut depth is a hand locked lever. This can work loose while cutting so that the depth of cut increases. It is best to ensure some scrap beneath or you will saw into your bench or kitchen table.
2. The width of cut is set by a metal arm with a plastic end. There are two problems with this.
(Α) Τhe plastic end is moulded into the metal arm with two small inserts. These will break after a few weeks of use.
(B) The metal arm can be locked with an Allen screw which holds the arm tight but moves the arm as the Allen screw is turned. You will spend your life trying to get the gauge set to the nearest m.m.
I expected better for my money.
Most of these issues are common to all these sort of tools, and this is certainly one of the best, but I feel it could be improved. On a positive note, the carry case is well-designed and sturdy, and doesn't have the catches which break off after a few uses.
However, like most users I tried to use the saw like I use my 1800W circular saw and indeed I too found the blade wandered from true even when using a straight edge as a guide. At first I thought this was because my hand pushing the saw with the blade at full depth of the work piece through the cut was positioned behind the blade and that the slightest deviation from the straight edge by me would result in an unsatisfactory cut. The blade jammed. In fact the blade did slip on one occasion. I was cutting 18mm birch ply. Whilst the blade is sharp and the machine turns fast, it does not have the same torque as my 1800W circular saw, nor should I expect it to. The vibration feedback will using the machine told me I was pushing it machine or blade beyond its limits cutting this material.
I then adjusted my technique. Instead of trying to achieve the cut in one single pass I found I could achieve accurate cuts running the blade depth at half depth using a straight edge as a guide. Allowing the blade to cut without pushing the machine too hard, the forces and vibration acting on the blade and the machine were noticeably less. Running the next pass with the blade just past full depth of the work piece resulted in sharp clean cuts on both the topside and underside of the work requiring very little with a hand plane.
Using this technique I have consistently achieved good clean accurate cuts of over 2.4 metre lengths, requiring very little corrective work if any and was able to complete all my cuts through the birch ply to build the sides, doors and drawers for a wardrobe.
I have found 1” thick MDF can be cut in a single pass with no issues or defects.
When cutting timber like pine shelving boards, again I found no issue. Cutting 2” x 4” framing timber may need the multi-pass approach if the wood is knotty and you are looking for a precise cut.
If you try to twist the machine in the cut, the blade will jam. If you nip the blade in the cut between the work piece sides without supporting them properly, the blade will jam. This is after all a 700W machine.
I have no particular brand loyalty and pick machines on their merits. This particular saw is very good for light work where a 1800W brute would do more damage than good. Used with a straight edge guide and clamping everything down safely, clean crisp cuts can be achieved consistently.
Pay attention to the material you are cutting, plan the cuts properly and with a little time and understanding of the behaviour and performance of the machine which can only come with experience, you can achieve good cuts with this machine.
One last thing, I do not rely or have ever used the laser. It was setup in a factory and shipped, then delivered. It is not unreasonable to expect the laser to be out of alignment.




