Отзывы о Wi-Fi роутер D-Link DIR-815

*Update 3*I managed to get some useful work out of this piece of mierda by daisy chaining it to my old router. Now, the old router handles all the g band traffic and this one handles only n. Stable in this configuration, but that's hardly a recommendation.*Update 2*I have now owned this router for six months. Unfortunately, the DIR-815 has proven to be unstable on my network of mixed Macs and PCs. Specifically, it started resetting itself every few minutes as soon as I connected a Windows 7 laptop to it. I have now spent literally dozens of hours on the forums and on technical support, updating firmware and drivers, disabling uPnP and other advanced router features, cutting this and that computer out of the network, all to no avail. It's been gathering dust on the shelf for a couple of months, and now goes to the trashcan. Reduced rating to 1 star.*Update 1*I've now had this router for several months. In the interim, My kids have come back home from school. Now that there are up to 7 wireless (all on the n-band) and 2 wired devices vying for connections to this router, I am experiencing some trouble: Specifically, about once every other day I can't connect to the internet at all and need to cycle the power on the router. I'm still investigating and will post updates if I learn anything.I have owned this unit for 1 day.Original review:Summary:Setup had a few glitches, mostly I could never get the "install wizard" CD mounted on my PC but there were a couple of other gotchas that would have taken less time to overcome if the setup documentation was better. All features work, but I haven't really stressed this router yet. I'll post a follow-up when I do.Details:I bought this router to replace an aging router that couldn't keep up with the demands of streaming video in a 4 person household. I was attracted to the DIR-815 because of its features (dual radios) and also because I'm also buying the D-Link Wireless N Dual Band MediaBridge (DAP-1513) to get wired ethernet over to my home theater cabinet. I'm hoping for better compatibility between 2 devices from the same company.Unpacking and setup:The router was a snap to plug in in-place of the existing unit. However, setup was more difficult than it should have been. D-Link has made an attempt at fully automated setup. The provide a "setup wizard CD" with the router. Supposedly, you can just plug the router into your home network, pop the CD into your PC or Mac, and have the "wizard" lead you through the setup process. Well, the CD never mounted on my Windows XP-based PC. So much for the CD. I performed the rest of the setup via the router's browser interface.The setup documentation provided with the router is minimal. I had a few challenges which I overcame without having to call D-Link tech support, but then I'm a computer professional. Here are the rough spots. Most are related to connecting to a Comcast cable modem:WAN setupWAN setup was pretty easy (the default connection protocol, DHCP, is correct) as long as you remember that the MAC address of the PC or router attached to the cable modem is part of their configuration and cannot change (without a call to Comcast). Fortunately, modern routers (including the D-Link) allow you to "fake" any MAC address in the WAN configuration. It even has a handy "clone your PCs MAC" button so you don't have to type the darn' thing. As long as you are working from the same PC as the one you used during the initial cable modem setup, you are golden. I wasn't so I had to go back to the old router's settings to remember the magic number.LAN setupThe Comcast modem hard-wires its LAN-side I.P. address to 192.168.0.1. This is the default I.P. of just about every router on the market. Thanks Comcast! You cannot setup both "sides" (LAN/WAN) of a router with the same I.P. Consequently, you have to choose a different number for your home network. No biggee, just another Gotcha.Wireless setupPretty easy. The option to use a single password for both wireless g and n is cool. IMPORTANT: Believe the router's wizard when it tells you that "hex (0-9, A-F) passords must by 63 characters. If you inadvertently use a password that uses only those characters, it had better be 63 characters or you won't be able to connect wirelessly, and the router won't tell you why.I have now successfully connected via wired, and both wireless radios simultaneously. No dropouts yet.

A Review from the Hubby:Packaging: Router and accessories were nicely packaged and protected. All components and accessories were in the box. All pertinent information was on the outside of the package and very legible. D-Link packaging is Green (good for environment) in that it uses recyclable packaging and energy star power adapter.Unit: It is a dual band wireless router, does 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz simultaneously. Sleek look, small and compact with two antennas, one for each band. Has power switch on back which is nice. Has WiFi Protected Setup (WPS) for single push button (right side of router) wireless network configuration setup.Setup: Setting it up using the CD Wizard was easy and went flawlessly. I only tried it temporarily to see how easy it was and only hooked it directly up via LAN to a desktop computer and wireless to my IPOD. Everything went fine. I then, reset it to the factory settings (using reset button in the back) and proceeded with my real interest which was to cascade (connect to another wireless router) it with my current 802.11g 108 Mbps Netgear router. I did this so I could expand my network and keep the older wireless pc's/laptops (802.11 b and g) on the Netgear. This is a LAN to LAN connection set up and is documented in the manual which is on the disc that came with the router. Nite: D-Link web site does not have the manual for download at the time I was setting this up. This should have been an easy set up, but I ran into a problem and ended up having to call D-Link support. See D-Link Support below. The wireless setup went very smoothly.D-Link Support: There were three steps in cascading this router. Disable UPnP, disable DHCP and change LAN IP address on D-Link router before hooking it LAN to LAN to the Netgear router. I had done some research before hand as well as reviewing the D-Link manual instructions as well, and everything says to only change the last digits (xx) on the IP address, 192.168.1.xx. Which is what I did. What I didn't pick up on was that the 3rd number on D-Link is a zero (192.168.0.xx) and on the Netgear a one (192.168.1.xx). I could get the computer hooked up directly to D-Link to access the internet. But the minute I got out of the D-Link router utility, I could not log back in using that new IP address. I tried three times, and on the third time I suspected something was wrong with the third digit but whether I used a zero or a one, it didn't matter, I could not log onto the router utility. In desperation I called D-Link support. Tech support person was very nice and courteous, at first. We talked through what I had done, then started the trouble shooting. He had me open the web browser and we tried both IP addresses, with a zero and a one, neither worked. He then had me open command line and we tried pinging the D-Link router to no avail. We pinged the Netgear and it worked. Bottom line was the tech support guy didn't believe me that I could connect to the internet but we couldn't "locate" the D-Link router, not even when opening the Netgear utility and searching the connected devices the D-Link would not show. He finally said it was a Netgear issue, therefore my problem. When I pointed out that the computer was hooked directly to the D-Link router so how could it possibly be a Netgear issue, he then said I didn't know the IP address I put in. I told him the only thing questionable was the 3rd number but we had tried both. What he should have done was walked me through resetting the router and going through the simple set up. After the call, I reset the router went through the setup and did for sure notice that the third digit needed to be a one (so previously I had set it up with a zero because that is the was the D-Link router is set up and it did not tell me to check for this and only change the 4th set of numbers). Once I went through a new set up and used a one (192.168.1.58) for the third number and changed the fourth set to say 58, it worked like a charm. I could then access the utility and continue with the other wireless and feature set-ups.Features: Dual Band: The nice thing about this router is that it is a dual band. The 2.4GHz spectrum can be quite crowded with cordless telephones, 802.11 b, g & n routers and adapters, and other wireless devices in this spectrum. The 5 GHz spectrum is less crowded and is used on this router for multimedia connections (on line gaming and HD Video streaming) where you need fast down/up loads, minimal lagging, and speed. Therefore, I've used this band for my kids computer for their on line gaming (multiplaying). The other nice thing is you can turn on or off in the utility either band or run them simultaneously. Note that you will need a pc dual band adapter that has the 5Ghz spectrum to use this band.WPS: My newest laptop a Dell Inspiron i3 Intel processor running Windows 7 w/ Wireless N mini-card was able to take advantage of this feature. It worked flawlessly. On t

I will start off by saying this router has a lot of nice features and a very nice and easy-to-use interface. It has dual Band N, which is nice-to-have, but there are more problems which outweigh these features.Bottom line: this product is not very reliable. I find that I have to reboot a few times a month as it drops wireless internet connectivity for no reason. There is no visual indication the internet is dropped - the wireless signal is still detected, and the lights are still blinking, but no connectivity. I know it is not the internet service, because I even tried plugging this into my Verizon Gateway, giving me 2 wireless connections (both connected to the internet). The D-Link would lose connectivity, but the VZ Gateway was still connected. It is a pain having to reboot this. I have since decided to go with my other router, the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600, which by far outperforms this D-Link. I have had zero problems since.

This router is hard to configure but works great,i tried 2-3 different configuration and the best i found is the stock config(wpa or wpa2) and tkip+aes.with wpa2 only i had really bad pingtest,my ping was 15-20% higher and a high jitter(25-40) but the speedtest is almost the same.With the stock config my pingtest is equal or better than my old router and with speedtest my upload is higher than 1.50(my old router,maximum 1.46).All my tests are done with the 2.4ghz band,i really don't know if the 5ghz band is good because my laptop wireless card is only 2.4ghz.i recommend this router.p.s. don't touch the power button,leave the router on.I put the router off last night and this morning i had to make a factory reset from the website 192.168.0.1 because the second light from the left was orange all the time and the wired or wireless connection not working

If you've used a Wireless N router that doesn't have a separate G receiver, you'll be aware of the throttling that occurs when you're trying to use your uberfast N connection at the same time a G devices is accessing the router. Not ideal for households that have multiple devices of different bands.I went from a Netgear G series router to this, and it's night and day. File transfer of 9GB via wireless N took 14 minutes - all the while I was able to surf the internet and stream video with zero lag - couldn't even tell I was sending anything other than my HD churning. Range is good, and multiple devices of different frequencies can connect with no bog or lag. Previously it seemed that more than 2 devices connected to my old Netgear would cause a network slowdown.Tons of features, the QoS and media streaming features are great too if you have a file server that you wirelessly stream video to your TV (which I do) - HD 1080p video is streamed with no lag, and again, no performance hit on web surfing at the same time.Super happy with this - runs cool as well, has cool power and security options (i.e. you can set it to turn wireless on at a certain time, so it's off all day when your at work) - tons of stuff. Buy it.Edit: Speed tip - for some reason these are set default (at least on firmware 1.0 which is all that's out when I'm writing this) @ 20Mhz for WMM (Wireless Multimedia)- set this to 20/40Mhz (Auto) and it is bit more snappy. Also for streaming, enable Multicast. If you want to see all the features, Dlink has an emulator setup, just Google DIR-815 Emulator, and you'll find it.Second edit: Another review mentions he is unable to setup two separate SSID's for a G, and an N network - I have not had this problem, and do indeed have two separate SSID's, so my N's connect to the N's, and my G's connect to my G's. I should also mention this will NOT speed your internet up in anyway - seems to be some confusion about that. I suppose if you had a 20/30Mbps pipe to your house it would make a difference, but that's fairly rare - most residential services are running 6-12Mbps, which G can handle easily. It will increase your wireless networks range, and your internal file transfer speeds by about 10x, and as I've mentioned, doesn't bog when you're doing multiple things on the wireless channel.Third edit: And I should have posted this awhile ago - I was having an issue with devices on my LAN unable to connect, or unable to get a DHCP address (or refresh the DHCP lease) - by default, this is set to a 7 day DHCP lease, which seemed long to me, so on a hunch I set this in the router to 24 hours (this is in minutes, so 1440), restarted, and immediately stopped all DHCP issues I was having. Have not had to reboot this in months after making this change. I think that is the majority of problems people seem to be reporting, and is an easy fix.

I've had this router working with no problems for a couple months. Was not intending to write a review since the existing reviews cover just about everything about it EXCEPT! I read in a couple of them where the reviewer gave the impression that you can have separate g and n networks so g devices connect to the G side and N connect to N - that is not exactly true. It is true that you can have a G only side but your N only will be 5GHZ and your normal N devices will NOT connect to the 5GHZ N side. You have to have an N adapter (USB or whatever) that can pick-up the 5GHZ frequency. Just having an N adapter will NOT get you on the 5GHZ side.In fact, i just bought a USB dual band adapter to connect to 5GHZ; the windows zero-configuration (which is not true speed but is good for comparison) speed went from 72-120 Mbps (on 2.4GHZ N) to 247-300 Mbps (on 5GHZ N). Amazing! Get the right adapter to connect to the 5GHZ frequency then look in the mirror - you'll have a permanent smile..

This router is weak and unstable in wireless mode and could not cover the area of my previous D Link 655. It kept dropping the signal which was very annoying. I am sending it back because it will not function for me. This could be the result of it not having a gigabit interface but I don't know enough to say for certain. It might work for others if they don't stream HD.

so thanks to steve with xbox live -- this router now has 5 xbox 360's, 2 ps3's, a wii , a ps2 , 2 kinec systems on 2 of the xboxes , a laptop and 2 tower computers on it and a vonage phone -- and everything has open nat types -- holy cow -- smooth and fast and just plain SMOKIN fast -- if your a gamer this is what xbox techs use to test your problems -- i now recieve messages when wanting to change party leader to another that say they do not have the connectivity to make them host -- lmao -- absolutely great product i give it a 100 on a scale of 1 to 10 AAA rating all the way

I'm sorry to say, this router was horrible. As a network admin, I've had good performance with D-Links at both home and work. Not the case here.I noticed not only decreased internet and network speed, but I could not get my static IP addresses to take.I usually forward remote desktop and a couple of other things to different computers. I could only get one working and performance was awful. Additionally, it won't let you assign your own static IP. You have to let the device pull a random IP address and then you can assign THAT ONE as static for that device. Not acceptable. I should be able to assign whatever IP address I want to that MAC address, then plug it in and go.I recommend other D-Link products, but not this one.

This dual band router stopped working after 10 days. There is not much to say about this router other than it worked well with my new Samsung Smart TV until it abruptly quit working. It was returned and credit was promptly given. I re-ordered a different brand just in case the D-Link brand was sub-par.

I've had this router since April '11 and (knock on wood), it has always worked flawlessly. This replaced a Belkin N router that I was about to throw out the window so believe me, I had no patience for another temperamental router. Fortunately, I didn't have anything to worry about. The D-Link was easy to set up and basically installed itself. I will admit that I only live in a two bedroom apartment, but the desktop, laptop, tv, Wii, and PS3 are constantly connected and sometimes a tablet and cellphone too. Of those things only one, the tv, uses the 5ghz connection. With that being said, I rarely have to restart my router unless I'm re-configuring something or the cable company is playing with the signal.

Unit works well. Smart phone connects to 2.4 Ghz band using N while laptop uses 2.4/G. 2 other wired units connect to ports. User interface works well. I use a voip service that did not require any additional setup. One word of caution,and this may apply to other routers as well, leave the Wan port setting on 'auto'. I set mine to 100m thinking I never wanted it running at 10m. Well, download performance was terrible. Set back to 'auto' and all is well again. Mine is HW B1 and firmware 2.00. I purchased at local store as my previous unit died suddenly.

Do not buy this router! It comes defective. Even with no configuration, just out of the box and the internet settings it fails to create a network or connect to the internet. Also, if you are a mac user, the install disc is windows only, so you'll get no help there. Further, you are going to have to install new firware, though for me this still did not work. I am a fairly tech savy person, did everything that support asked me to do to trouble-shoot their product and it still won't work. Caution, it is discounted because it is defective.

I was in the market for a new router because my Netgear of 5 years has finally died. I was pretty excited to get this D-Link router because it was a dual band router and a very nice price. I have to admit that it has a nice design and the set up was relatively painless. But problems arose after a month of use. This thing just disconnects from the internet about every other day. I have to power down the router and then turn it back on in order for it to work. I kid you not...it is almost a daily occurrence. When my android phone uses the wifi mode, it is virtually unusable. I can stand right next to the router and I'll have full bars on my phone, but the speed is a crawl. My wife loves to play her stupid facebook games at night and she keeps complaining that we have to get a new router because this thing keeps interrupting her games. This issue is not limited to wireless connections. When wireless goes, so does the wired connection go. I can't believe how bad this router turned out. The main reason I bought it was because the router we have at work is a Netgear router too and it was recommended by the VOIP company we use, but a totally different model. Netgear...I hate you! I wish you would help me with this problem. I can't even return this thing because I missed my 30-day window.

This is my first wireless router. I have a wired router but wanted to try a wireless onewhen I bought a kindle fire that needed a wireless connection.I opened the box and had this unit up and running in about 15 minutes.It worked fine wired to my desktop and wireless to my laptop and to my kindle.The software helped setup the unit quickly and painlessly.I haven't had any problems with the unit in the months that I have used it.

I have had this device a litle over 1 year and have NOTHING but problems with it, and as I see from other users, I also have to reset/reboot (power off/on) about once a day.Been looking for months at D-Link's website to see a fix on the firmware, but I guess they don't care !!!!!!!!!...because nothing has happened since 2010 firmware release.This device goes in the TRASH D-LINK....and TP-Link are now the new house hold and company network hardware provider.

I'm not an expert so my review is going to be short. Came before estimateddelivery date.Router was easy to set up and works as promised.Not problems asof yet. Like the nice on and off switch. Better than unhooking power cord.Would recommend purchase.

Constant need to reboot this route make an otherwise terrific product absolutely terrible.We run a couple of laptops, phones/touches, DTV, etc. Typical for someone in the market for a dual band product. Unfortunately the router will pretty much stop working and requires that someone physically visit the router and unplug. I truly wasted my money and wouldn't consider another d-link product.

Bought this Router to see if i could surf the internet faster. After, spending three hours trying to get it work, I gave up???Pretty easy 3 steps setup. Setup was easy but everytime i try to surf the internet it won't connect but my computer's say i am connected. I don't know if Router is defective or i just don't know what i am doing???? Either way, this router is a waste of time.....

This router does everything it is supposed to do, allowing me to surf from my laptop (using older G-band wireless) without interfering with my streaming movies. The range is also excellent--with the router in the middle of my house, I have clear coverage everywhere, even outside on my porch.It is reasonably easy to set up, although I would imagine that a novice might struggle a bit in understanding how to get particular devices to use a particular band (or even why they might want to do so). The admin interface is fairly exhaustive in its feature set, but a novice can ignore it and use the setup disk (for Windows only).The four network ports on the back are very useful, as I have a few hard-wired devices throughout my house (good thing I ran all that CAT-5), so I can use it as a router for non-wireless connections as well.All-in-all a great device.

Bought the router from Fry's (for more than its listed here)... although the router does send out both frequencies, I found it highly unreliable. Laptops with weaker internal wireless cards were useless any range more than 40 feet away. Also, the router would need to be reset frequently (~2 times a week).Recently bought the medialink router (http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-802-11n-Internal-Antenna/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328163116&sr=8-1). Very happy with it, it was less expensive, and needless to say... its nice having the luxury of writing a review from my furthest room.

I normally go with LINKSYS, but the reviews have been less than impressive for them lately so I thought I'd try this D-Link product. I specifically wanted dual band for video purposes, but I've been unable to get my Blu Ray players to even see the 5 GHz band.The 2.4 GHz band loses conectivity and needs to be reset anywhere from 2 to 6 times per week. Of course Tech support blames the Blu Ray players and tells me they need an A modem to see the 5 GHz band. HUH?In any case, I've learned my lesson. You won't catch me buying d-link again.Edit: I upgraded this to 2 stars on 2/27/12 only because the firmware update finally addressed the problem with losing connectivity. The other problems still remain.

Only one day with this thing and upgraded the firmware and it just constantly crashes, I needed to replace my Dlink 4500 gaming router since it started dying, and unfortunately got a piece of trash. Lesson learned. its alread bad enough it s not a gigabit router which was not even information on the box thats actually important. I am subscribed to 50mbps internet and it slows the speed down by 10-15 megs making it 35-40 megs. Only one day and its already time for this trash to be destroyed.

Every couple of days it looses connection to the internet, and needs to be power cycled.Luckily, the store I bought mine from has a great return policy.Once I work out which make/model to get I will be taking this junk back to the store.Glad I kept the box..