Отзывы о Медиаконвертер TP-LINK MC111CS V6
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TP-LINK MC111CS V6?
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Set and forget. As long as it lasts, there should be no issue. My un-managed TP-Link Switch has been up for at least three years and I am sure this one should have no problem as well.
There seems to be some confusion between this model (TL-SG1016) which is designed as a rackmount switch and the other version (TL-SG1016D) which can either be a rackmount OR a desktop switch. Functionality wise there is no difference between the two, however the "D" version is only 13 inches wide and if you wish to rack mount it, you'll use the included brackets which allow it to mount to a 19 inch rack. The non "D" version (the version I purchased) is 19" and does come with the rack mount ears that allow you to fasten it to the rack itself.
There is some misinformation out there that suggests this version doesn't come with the rack mount hardware and that is simply incorrect. It doesn't come with the rackmount "kit" that the "D" version includes because it isn't necessary as it is already the correct width, but it does come with the rackmount ears and the screws required to fasten the ears on to the switch. It does NOT come with screws used to fasten the switch to the actual rack, but that is likely because there are several different sizes of rack screws... so you're on you own there.
One interesting thing about the mounting ears is that they are designed to be rotated in four directions. This means you can mount the switch directly to a wall simply by rotating the mounting ears 90 degrees. You can also rotate them 180 degrees to allow the switch to sit in front of the face of your rack as this pushes the mounting position back around two inches. If you have a shallow mounting bracket rather than a full rack this may be useful, but keep in mind the power cord for this unit goes directly out the back, so depending upon how much space you have it could still pose problems. Each ear mounts with four screws (also included) and they are plenty sturdy.
They also include some rubber feet if you decide to sit this on a shelf. Not much else to it. If you want a rackmount option this is a good one. If you prefer something a bit smaller that you could leave on a desk or on shelf near your cable modem, you might find the "D" version is a better fit. The only real difference is physical size and how much air space is inside the case.
We have had it running since buying 9 months ago, and we never once had to reboot it. Even when we have to turn the miners off for maintenance we can leave this running and expect that they will immediately work as soon as they are turned back on.
We haven't tested these with any other device (yet), but I fully expect that it will work for other devices. I'm planning on buying another one to go in my upstairs office, to run Ethernet there to save on wiring complexity and the next time I have a new house built I'd probably plan the Ethernet wiring around one of these, instead of a hub, because everything can go to one place and the hub could then go in any room.
Another big positive about this is that it worked the same with both NEMA 6-15P outlets (240 volts) and NEMA 5-15P (120 volts). This is important for us, because we can run twice as many devices with 240v than we can with 120v, but we have less 240v outlets so we appreciate being able to switch to 120v if we need to for a device that uses more watts.
This switch is rather compact, which is a good thing as it can fit pretty much anywhere. One note to take is be advise the power connector is on the back and the ethernet ports are in the front, which depending on where you're thinking about placing it, could be a big factor as at least one cable (power or ethernet) will be exposed at all times. This is true unless the switch is mounted on the wall and hidden behind some other equipment. If aesthetics is something you're looking for, I suggest buying the model TL-SG1008D, which looks a bit nicer and has all the connections in the back. I personally don't care about the looks as I have placed it in the attic in order to connect all the ethernet cables that run to each of the rooms of my house. I also ran a Cat-6 ethernet cable all the way to my ISP modem which is located in the master closet. Yup, that required some work but it looks much nicer to have all cables ran through the attic than be visibly exposed. Now according to the manual, this device can safely operate between 32-104 degrees Fahrenheit, and since I live in Texas, that could be a challenge during the summer. I'll add another update this fall on how this switched withstood the hot Texas summer. I've had a model TL-SG1008D, which is made out of plastic as opposed to metal so again, only time will tell how this one operates.
So far, the TL-SG108 has been working just fine and I haven't noticed any loss of bandwidth when performing a speed test on my wired computers. This switch works just as expected and if you just need to add more ethernet ports to your home network, then this TP Link ethernet switch perfectly works for that purpose.
It inspired me to make some adjustments to my home network setup and now I have redone my entire network and have things running into the switch instead of directly into my router. Everything works great, and was able to free up the power cord from my desk phone by powering the phone with PoE.
The switch was dead simple to install, it was plug-and-play. I went into the GUI just to poke around but if I recall correctly everything was already set-up and you don't even need to do that step. The GUI is pretty basic but if you have used Netgear routers in the past, it is very familiar and easy to figure out.
My only complaint is that I wish the ports were on the back instead of the front, but I think this device is built for more advanced setups than I currently have, in which case you would have this switch mounted on a rack or accepting patch cables from a patch panel.
The 8 ports are more than enough for me now, and technically I only needed one PoE port so its great to be able to grow into this device. I may purchase an access point or purchase another router to use as an access point and expand my network.
Either way, I know this device works great and will serve me well for years to come. Thanks, Netgear! I always love Netgear products.
I was able to use the new IP address to access the switch, but after about a minute I suddenly lost access and could not get back into the device. I reset it back to factory and logged into 192.168.0.1 (default) and changed it again and was again booted out of the new IP address as before. Eventually, I hooked it up to my network and it worked well as an unmanaged switch, but I still could not access the GUI. After a couple hours I gave up and returned the item.
Perhaps I was doing something wrong and this could have been solved by TP Link customer support but I don't know why the switch should be so difficult to access.
The fatal flaw is that PoE stops being live after a reboot. If you plug in a device that needs PoE, the port does not power up. You have to reboot the entire switch, with the PoE device plugged in, before it decides to provide power. Obviously, I dont want to reboot my switch every time I plug something in. At this point, id rather use power injectors than this silly switch.
I purchased the 8 port, unmanaged model without POE.
This is a simple switch for use to expand simple networks wired connectivity. It can be used to add additional ports to a typical home router. Or it can be used in more complex installs as long as the user understands its limitations. As its an unmanaged switch, this box cannot process VLAN tags. I have not tested whether it can pass these or not. If I do I will update.
In my install I'm branching this from a managed switch. I configued the downlink port on the main switch to pass untagged traffic to my desired sub-net to this swicth. This switch feeds my streaming players and game systems. This allows me to free up airtime on my wifi and provide a more stable and fastest possible connection to my devices. The link indicators are small and not distracting even considering these are on my entertainment center.
Bottom line, its plug an play for anyone who doesn't moonlight as a network administrator. Its also a cheap and viable option for those looking expand soho networks as long as the branch is single network. For $20 I can't recommend a better switch.
UPDATE: I failed to notice this unmanaged box knows and acts over 802.1p %*&^#*. I already got QOS on my firewall and don't want to double-QOS so I may be forced to get the managed one instead because there is no way to turn off QOS on this box. DIGRESS on the Netgear, TP-link got easier to see at-a-glance amber+green LEDs, Netgears are, all jumbled greens.
GREEN UPDATE: 8 ports (hardware V3) unmanaged consumes 2 watts @idle, and up to 3 watts with 5 active ports
So internet comes into my house through my internet providers router then to my mesh system (AmpliFI by Obuntu but there are plenty of systems out there)
then my Wi-Fi signals are parsed from there.
Great. Fantastic coverage through my home.
Issue i had:
I have 7 devices that require a LAN connection instead of Wi-Fi. I had to use the LAN ports on router (4) and on my Mesh Wi-Fi router (4)
they all got connection to the internet but couldn't see each other across routers. Now Alexa couldn't control my Sonos speakers, media center and NAS drive media.
solution. got this switch(cheap as hek too).
plugged into Wi-Fi mesh router and plugged everything into the switch. VIOLA success!
All my Wi-Fi can see all my wired devices.
No admin required on my part. just plug and play. Smart and easy.
As long as it holds up this is money very well spent
This gave me the extra ports and the GB speed to help smooth out my NVR recording/viewing.
My previous switch was fanless and I was concerned about this unit being too loud for my small office where half of my IT equipment is located. The switch is now mounted 12" behind my monitors on the wall and with the house quiet, I can barely notice the fan running. It is audible but not enough to cause disruption while working or during video meetings. If I ever feel that the fan gets louder, there is a quiet fan direct replacement that can be easily swapped out for under $20.
I like that fact that I was initially able to just plug and play with the switch. My router auto assigned an address and everything was up and running. Later I found the new address, logged in, changed the PW, and updated the software. Easy Peasy.
I like that I have options with the switch if I choose to or I can just run with it as is. Power draw is minimal with the cameras and phone and the switch never gets warm.
So far I am very happy with the purchase and will buy another when the time comes for the other side of the house.
Minor feature I really appreciate: it comes with four little rubber pads to use as feet, but it also comes with two mounting holes on the bottom for a flush wall mount (however it does not come with mounting hardware). This gives it a lot of versatility—though it should be noted that you can’t easily switch back and forth because the rubber pads are adhesive. But you could always make the mounting screws stick out a bit from the wall so the switch could be mounted even with the rubber pads installed as long as you didn’t mind that the switch wasn’t flush mounted.
and this is how you plug it in
internet ----router ---- switch.(doesn't matter which port)
overall i give it four start, because its quality and design, but with no other special features, so i took one start out of it.
a brief explaintation for the rating area.
i give it one start for wifi signal, because it does not have any wifi signal( of course i know it is not suppose to have any wifi, i think the selection should not be shown.
and i have never use tech support, so i did not rate it
and i give it one start for user interface, because it does not have any user interface, (which it does not suppose to have any UI)
The device simply stopped functioning. Now I need to pay to return to TP link and wait for the replacement.
Update: Amazon made good on the refund and shipping NOT TP_Link. TP-Link finally answered me on Facebook to explain how the problem was with me.
NEWER UPDATE:
Amazon sent me a new unit which failed on 14 August less than 60 days after receiving it. I have been corresponding with TP-Link for almost a month with no movement other than sending more tests. I am an engineer and have done extensive testing on the unit. They asked me to get "Another 48V power supply" and try it out to insure the power supply is not the problem even after measuring correct voltage out of the power supply.
Since this is a critical piece of a network I assume they want the customer to get frustrated and simply buy something else.
Replacement got here, and the day after I had set it up (today, 12/16/20), same issue popped up again. This time unplugging the power from the hub and plugging it back in seems to make it work (I can't remember if that's something I thought of trying the first time; I'm fairly certain I did but not 100%). I've had to do this reset four times today. It works great when it actually is, but I can't see myself sticking with this product if I'm going to have to plug and unplug it every few hours. I'm considering daisy-chaining a second 5-port to my first one over trying to put up with this. Will give it a few days and hope it gets better, but if not I don't think I can give this product a third chance.
Powerline es lo mejor cuando todo lo demás no funciona, en mi caso, una casa con paredes de roca de 50 cms, probé múltiples repetidores de diferentes marcas con antenas enormes y nada atravesaba las paredes, ya antes habia usado los Powerline de TP-Link y D-Link pero solo para 1 habitación, esta vez le di internet a toda una casa de 7 habitaciones, todo perfecto, aunque los passtrough son demasiado grandes y estorbosos a diferencia de los que no cuentan con enchufes, en algunas partes de mi instalación me costo trabajo dejarlos de forma que no estorbaran a otros enchufes cercanos, los AV2000 son lo mejor que hay.





