Отзывы о Медиаконвертер TP-LINK MC111CS V6

This switch was listed as new condition, but the one I received was used, open box, or refurbished. The box was not sealed in any way, the power cord was a tangled mess inside the box, and the switch housing is scratched. It does work, at least. But if I’m going to pay the “new” price, I expect a new item. If you’re selling a refurb or open box item, it should be priced accordingly. Photo shows a cheesy “extra” product sticker applied over the original, and while it clearly says “New Item”, it is not. Rip-off.

I have a quite a few TP-Link devices (smart switches, lights, AP, etc.) and I needed to replace an old 10/100 Mbps switch. It was a rack mount that used far more electricity than I needed and I only had 6 ports active, so I purchased this. It's 100% silent, compact and well made (all metal). It also uses very little power, which was a plus.

Like all TP-Link products I've purchased, this doesn't disappoint.

I'm actually more ok with the fact that this died after 6 months than I am that their logitec software is just horrible, horrible, horrible. Hardware should be better, yes, but crap can go wrong - I can forgive this, I'm a hardware engineer. And I'll get it fixed under warranty, annoying, but ok.

But... I'm also a software engineer, and their control panel software to configure settings is not forgivable. Why? Well, for starters, it ought to launch _every time_, no question. But no. It often simply wont appear - no interface, nothing. If lucky, finding and killing the right task in Windows task manager might be enough to get it to launch again. Or not. Who knows. It just depends on how the apps feels on any given day. And then, if it does launch, it will often crash and completely mess with your keys and mouse settings, in particular when you also have the G13 game pad installed too. It's great to have a single control panel app to manage all Logitec devices - this is great, and actually makes me want to sick to one brand for all these devices. BUT... come on Logitec, put some real developers behind this massively critical, flagship app that makes or breaks the entire experience.

I thought this kept resetting itself to factory default upon a power cycle. I confirmed this by some of the negative reviews on here. Well, it turns out it was an easy fix. I was only "Applying" settings and not hitting the "Save Config" button that's blended into the settings menu on the lower left. "Applying" will only hold the configuration until you reboot UNLESS you hit the little "save config" button to make it permanent. It's a little different than the Netgear equipment I normally deal with and so this took me longer than it should have to figure out =) Now the switch has been running strong for over a year. I have 4 POE Hik/Dahua cameras attached and all work as they should.

I'm not sure if it is the power supply for the switch or the POE power itself, but this switch is VERY electrically noisy. I used an analog cable tracer to identify which cable to put an end on, and had to power down the switch so that it was usable because the interference from the switch was the most I've ever seen.

That said, It works as a POE switch, and there aren't any packet issues reported by the device, so it works.

Like any other switch, plug into the power, connect the cables and voila, it works! I needed more ethernet access for my audio video (previous switch had only +4 compared to this +7) and I was just going to use the old power supply from my old switch, but when I compared power supplies, the new switch transformer only uses .5 amps compared to the old swith using 1.5 amps! Way more efficient and pass through is perfect. The price is killer and the construction is bullet proof. Get it on sale while you can!

This is perfect for my makeshift small server at home. I was limited with only 2 ethernets but now I can plug in almost all the big devices in my home. I know it says 8 port but in actuality, you can only have 7 different devices plugged in because the WLAN cable takes up one spot. It would be cool if the WLAN ethernet was separate and there would be 8 additional ethernet switches but hey what can you do. If you're planning to get the 5 port switch, just get the 8 port because it's future proof and only $1 more, also it looks bigger in the photos but in reality, it's the size of my hand. It has small cutouts if you want to wall mount this and it has 4 rubber legs that you can remove or attach via adhesive strips. It's universal and perfect for almost any situation (home or business).

Positives:
- Inexpensive
- Sturdy, well-made enclosure
- Runs cool

Negatives:
- Status LEDs are small and hard to see unless looking directly at front of switch
- Only one status LED per port. Does not show connection speed, just link/activity.
- Power connection is on the back, network connections on the front. For desktop use, this arrangement is very awkward since cables come out both sides of the box. Would be much nicer if status LEDs where on the front and all cable connections on the back. For this reason I would NOT recommend this switch for desktop use.

I have 5 of these 8-port unmanaged switches and I've has zero problems with them. I don't agree with any of the complaints people have had regarding DHCP not passing and I don't know of any reason why that wouldn't work. My Google Wifi system manages DHCP in my whole network and as you can see from the network diagram, it's the first device on a chain of devices, and everyone gets IPs. We have Gigabit service from Comcast and never have an issue with anyone clogging the network. All I can say is that if you need a switch for your home network, get one of these. 10/10.

Use Case
I crawled around and put about 6000ft of Cat5E witing into my old house, but there was one attic that I only ran two lines to. As a temporary measure I put an 8 port switch up there and used a bunch of individual PoE injectors. The purchase of the TL-SG1016PE is meant to replace all of that, and act as a more permanent solution.

Build Quality
The TL-SG1016PE is standard fare when it comes to SOHO networking products. It's in a metal housing that seems durable enough. The unit it 1U in height, and includes flanges to mount into a 19" rack. The case has hexagonal perforations for ventilation, along with 40mm fans. Thankfully, the power supply is internal, and the power hookup is a standard C13 jack. A straight C13 cable is included.

Setup/Performance
I bought a cheap 4U 19" bracket to mount to a stud in the attic, but it's one of the shallow wiring type brackets for punchdowns. The TL-SG1016PE's mounting brackets support the switch being mounted vertically (where the flanges are rotated 90 degrees). I mounted the switch in the lowest U position, and a punchdown block will go in the top position. The fit is good, and there were no surprises. I think this is a really good mounting option for newer homes that have structured wiring coming back to a closet (usually a master bedroom closet), as it can significantly reduce the practical space/footprint consumed.

The PoE ports of the device work fine, but it's worth noting that the total power budget of the device is 110W. While I will not end up using anywhere near this, it's still good for you to know that the limitation exists. This switch supports 802.3at-2009, which can max out the power budget at 4 devices (even though there are 8 ports). For reference, the 5 cameras that I have on the switch consume about 24W total (and that's at night when the IR consumes more power). When I have the full complement of 8 cameras on the device, I still won't be anywhere near the power budget.

There isn't much to the setup of the hardware portion of the switch, but that still leaves the configuration of the "smart" management of the switch. While the TL-SG1016PE is not a full L2/L3 managed switch, it does have some limited extra functions. In order to access the switch, you can use a TP-Link software application to set the IP address of the switch - it's included on CD, but you can use the one you have installed already if you have any other TP-Link switched already. I prefer to assign static addresses, but DHCP is available, too. Once you've assigned the IP, you can access the web management interface. While I was able to log in with Microsoft Edge, I wasn't able to change the device password unless I used Chrome; Edge seemed to work for all other functions.

The first thing I did was change the device password. I then created a link aggregation group (LAG) for the two lines that I'd run to the attic, which creates a higher bandwidth connection back to a switch (or computer) on the other end, provided that the other end supports it as well. The last thing I did was to create a VLAN for the cameras, which I think is a smart idea for anyone that has externally mounted cameras. Some of my cameras are mounted high up on the house, but others are low enough that someone could access the ethernet cabling with a stepladder... if they do, the VLAN limits the LAN access that the person would have.

The web management includes PoE configuration and usage details. You can set a switch-wide power limit, as well as per-port power policy. I just left everything at auto. The usage details are comprehensive, displaying exactly what the negotiated power level was, along with the instantaneous usage.

Something worth noting is that the TL-SG1016PE, like the switch I was using before it, will be operating in environmental conditions that are out of spec for the unit. The switch has an operating temperature limit of 40C, and the attic routinely gets hotter than that. The robust cooling of the unit, along with the relatively low power draw I will have (compared to the 110W max), should give me at least a few good years of operation. I'd consider that to be a great result.

Conclusion
There are a few things I would change about the TL-SG1016PE:
1. It would be nice if the unit shipped with the current firmware (it doesn't). There are a couple notable differences between the 5/18 firmware and the 5/17 firmware that ships on the device. I recommend loading the new one ASAP
2. I would prefer foam filters on the vents. This is not something that most people wouldn't want or need, but I've got my unit in an attic...
3. It would be nice if the unit (which uses temp-controlled fans, I think) would have hall-effect RPM monitoring of the 40mm fans, and could notify the admin of fan failure
4. It would be nice if there was some syslog or SNMP support

Ok, so that's out of the way... none of the items above are absolutely necessary. As it is, the TL-SG1016PE is performing flawlessly. The VLAN and LAG are functioning correctly, and the PoE hasn't had any faults with my cameras. I highly recommend this item.

It was a mistake buying this switch. I kept the box just in case it failed so I could return it. This is not an exaggeration, literally ONE DAY after the return window expires this switch failed. I emailed tech support and they want to know IP addresses, gateway info etc. it’s simple really, I bypass the switch and plug straight into my router I have internet. I plug into this switch, there’s no internet. It’s an UNMANAGED switch. Why should I have to go through command prompts/terminal and troubleshoot? It’s advertised as “plug and play”. I plug in it don’t play, therefore it’s defective but we have to play Games for warranty. For the $20 this switch cost, it’ll go into a pile of other amazon chinesium for recycling and I’ll have to buy another brand. It is not worth the time of troubleshooting, network downtime and headache to play tit-for-tat with a manufacturer that falsely advertises.i do not recommend this product.

NOTE: This product listing actually has several products. This review is of the unmanaged 8 port desktop switch (TL-SG108). Amazon mixes up all the reviews.

The TP-Link 8 port gigabit switch (TL-SG108) is a good solid performer for desktop use. There are lots of similar switches out there. I've used a bunch of different ones over the years in my IT Practice, but consistently had good luck with TP-Link.

Things I like are:
+ Plug & Play
+ Metal Housing
+ Compact Power Adapter
+ Indicator LED's Part Of Each Port
+ Auto-Sensing Ports For Speed/Crossover
+ Fairly Compact
+ TP-Link Has Worked Well For Me In The Past

Things I don't so much:
- Wish the power adapter were built-in so just a power cord

These small unmanaged switches are pretty much a commodity these days. TP-Link has been a good brand for me and I've used several of this model without problems. Just plug it and go makes this 5 stars for me.

This is the average joe review for people who doesn't have much background in networking. Are you one of those people who purchased a Velop mesh wifi unit and found out it only has 1 lan port? Well get this switch and problem solved. There is no software or complicated set up. Just plug this unit in and let it do its thing. Do you need to set up POE security cameras and you need more ports? This switch will solve that problem too, provided you have a power injector for your camera. Does your wifi router have problem streaming 4k content and you want to switch to a wired option? This switch offer peak rate at 2000Mbps. If you are like me and have your movies on a hard drive connected to your router, this lan switch will let you access and play 4k movie super smooth on a wired connection. The best part of this switch is the plug and play feature with minimal or no tweaking necessary. Thank you to you smart people out there who made this switch idiot-proof for people like me.

This switch worked fine for 6 months and then went from VERY slow speed to nothing at all in the space of a week. I contacted the manufacturer to get a replacement and good god what a runaround!!!! They force you to use chat (blaming lack of phone support on Covid, which is BS).

OK fine, I'll use chat. But wait, what's that??? Oh I'm number 12 in line??? 25 minutes later I finally get an agent who provided answers at glacial speed. Obviously, he was handling several customers at once. Long story short he leads me through this insane troubleshooting rigamarole

One
Question
At
A
Time

with at least 2 minutes between segments.

Finally, after 45 minutes I realized I'd be a complete fool to hang on any longer. I cut my loses and I was outta there.

So now I'm spending even MORE time telling you about my experience. This product has a zillion reviews already so mine probably wont' make dent, but I feel I have to do the right thing to help my fellow users. You can thank me by up-voting this review. Oh... and you're welcome.

TP-LINK TL-SG108 unmanaged provide eight switched gigabit Ethernet ports, cheap and Excellent throughput. Looks like a small version of what I've used in the past. Provide me with extra ethernet ports for my small network.
Construction of the switch is solid. The finish is smooth and the metal is thick enough that you do not have to worry about any damage through normal use or with kids.
Pros:
1. Plug & Play. No configuration needed as it is an unmanaged switch
2. Solid and dependable
3. Sturdy metal case
4. Very easy to install
5. Great price and works exactly as expected
6. Can't beat the limited lifetime warranty
7. Excellent throughput
Works exactly as advertised
Cons:
None for me. People may not like the power and the ports being on opposite sides, but with a little cable organization it works fine.
Final thoughts: Great switch for the money. You should definitely get one, especially if you need to expand on your personal home or small office. Very impressed TP-LINK

I have had this switch in my garage for almost two years for surveillance cameras and it gets hot in there (the garage is not cooled). I lost connection to two cameras yesterday when it was over 100 degrees outside and determined the switch was the issue. I went to my sweltering garage and that was when I saw that sunlight was shining directly on the switch through a window. I touched the switch and it was very hot. It was absolutely baking - I wish I had a thermometer. I could not believe it was functioning at all. I moved the switch out of the sunlight and let it cool overnight. I checked my cameras this morning and all were working.

I had expected this switch to fail the first summer it was in the garage because of the harsh conditions that it certainly was not engineered to tolerate. I am impressed it is still working. If or when it does fail, I will replace it with the same model.

So far so good, it's not a bottle neck of data transfer with gigabit speeds 10/100/1000, and half of the 16 ports (8) are POE. Technically it's a 15 port switch since 1 port is required to transfer datst with the router. So far I'm running 5 devices POE and it has no issue powering them, not even at night when the IR LEDs kick on. I'm going to be adding a WiFi access point that is POE, and possibly running 2 WiFi cameras from this POE using all 8 POE ports to see if it has the wattage to run everything.
BONUS it pays for itself from the savings ~$40 for each POE injector!
WARNING this isn't a router or modem or WiFi access point! You'll need a modem to get your internet signal, some modems have a couple of ports and WiFi, but I don't like devices that claim to do everything, multitasking devices typically suck! You'll need a router to direct internet traffic to the correct device, but they usually only have ~4 ports, some have WiFi antennas for an access point, but I don't like them because the best location for your router is not typically the best location for WiFi coverage. You should get a secondary WiFi access point that is dedicated to that job, it will give better connection speeds, and you can locate it in the best stop for covering your home and property (I can move my lawn and snowblow the sidewalk without losing connection). However your WiFi is going to slow down if you try to run everything wirelessly.
So you'll want a good switch to hard wire anything you can. Desktop computers, printers, digital storage, game consoles, security cameras, WiFi access point, smart home controller. You'll get less WiFi interference, and better security if devices aren't WiFi connected with the default password for any drive-by hacker to steal, or neighbor to leach off your internet.

The Device worked decently when i first got it. Plug & play for the most part. The Switch eventually became defective. Some of the ports were no longer connecting. Some of the devices i had connected to certain ports would tell me it was receiving no internet until i tried a different port. The lights on each port that were supposed to be either green or yellow depending on the type of device connected started randomly changing where they didn't used to before. And on the ports that weren't flat out not working the devices connected would still get intermittent loss of internet.

So i had to RMA it. Talked to TP-Link support and they sent out a replacement. I got a TL-SG108 Version 1 switch. The original one i bought had a higher version number. I got a downgraded replacement from what i originally bought. I talked to support about this and spoke with someone who didn't even know that there were feature differences between the product versions. Kept getting the same repeated line about how even though the replacement was a REFURBISHED unit that it was "an upgraded version that our engineers worked on & ensured to work" and that there was "No difference between this older version & the newer V3 one".

I had to literally direct the support person to the TL-SG108 product page on their own TP-Link website and point out the line that said "Support 802.1p/DSCP QoS¹ and IGMP Snooping function¹". They didn't get it so i had to spend another few minutes explaining how superscript numbers worked & pointing out that the number was referring to a sentence at the bottom of the page saying those features are only found in V2 and later. "1. For V2 and later version". Ridiculous.

The support person kept repeating over and over how this was upgraded by their engineering team whatever that means. I asked if they meant that even though the product says its a version 1 that they changed the insides to be a later version, they never gave a straight yes or no. Just kept repeating the line about how the engineering team upgrading it. I asked if it was upgraded to have the features of the later versions why is it listed as version 1. They told me the same line again with no explanation, that "it's been upgraded".

The support person seemed to think if they said the same thing enough times i would eventually buy what they were trying to sell me. That i would somehow be convinced that i didn't get back an inferior product to what i bought & sent to them.

So to summarize, the device stopped working properly. I did an RMA. I got back a REFURBISHED AND INFERIOR product to the one i originally bought. The support kept telling me over and over that the features of the later ones didn't matter & wasn't a big deal. That's ridiculous.

I will likely come back and update this review in the coming weeks and months, but while I had a moment I wanted to offer a first-look. I received the product (I have the 48-port managed smart switch) 2 days ago and set it up at my office in prep of bringing it to a client on this coming Tuesday. I actually found what I thought were two pretty big problems with my unit, but they were quickly resolved by pretty impressive chat support. (more on that later)

The product itself feels solid. Sturdy metal chassis and great out-of-the-box perception of quality. This is not a cheap feeling piece of hardware. I connected it to my network and had my first issue. Now, anyone setting up a 48-port smart switch should know where to look... as I did... but that doesn't change the fact that the engineer who decided that it's default IP address should be 192.168.0.1 (or really, anything ending in 0.1) needs to be fired... then stoned. Needless to say, when I plugged it into my existing network, everything in my network stopped working because I now had TWO 0.1 devices. No issue... I logged in as admin | admin... changed it's IP to 192.168.0.2... upgraded the firmware... hitting APPLY after each change.

Here comes the next issue - and again, it's a VERY SMALL issue. I then realized I had it in a bad spot on my desk, so I unplugged it... moved my stuff around and plugged it back into power. And all of the settings I changed were back to the defaults???? I made all my changes again... unplugged again... and yes, they reset again. Not wanting to bother troubleshooting, I fired up a CHAT SUPPORT window with TP-LINK. Less than 90 seconds later, the issue was explained by by rep - Camille. As it turns out, there is an APPLY button near every setting (which I used) but there is also a master SAVE CONFIG menu item. I assumed that meant EXPORT (like, to save the .BIN file locally) - you can do that too, but the SAVE CONFIG option is a "COMMIT" of your changes. Theory being, let's say you make a bunch of up-front changes... apply them all... then SAVE CONFIG... 4 months from now, you want to TEST some new changes... you can make them, test them, make more, test those, etc... all without COMMITTING them. And you have the option of removing power to go back to your last COMMITTED set of changes. Great concept... Cisco's have a running config like this... my issue is, TELL ME THAT when I click APPLY. Once you know, it's great. Again, just sloppy engineering.

Those small items aside... so far the options seem limitless. The device does QoS, VLAN, has a neat CABLE TEST option, reports on length of cables in each port... some pretty high end stuff, for not a lot of $$. Every port is gagabit, unlike some switches that SAY gigabit and only 2 or 4 ports are. Device looks and feels great. I only question the documentation, but from a technical aspect, it seems extremely promising so far. It will get put to the test starting Tuesday - this client site is pretty large, so I'll get to see how it handles over the next week or two.

Works great for my house

Switch is advertised to support Layer 2 VLANs - and indeed, initial testing showed it working. Further testing shows that there is a fatal flaw in that VLAN 1 cannot be removed from a port. This means that no matter how much you attempt to configure VLAN segmentation and security - the switch will ignore you. Since this is the absolute bare minimum function required, and the TP-Link team considers it a "feature" - this is a useless product. The unmanaged version is exactly as advertised - the "Easy Smart" version is not. Only way to find the issue is to have your network break and actually sniff the traffic to see the problem...

Use Case
My parents recently got an LG OLED TV set. The LG doesn't have the best wifi performance (despite the AP being in the same room as the TV), in terms of stability or throughput, and would require periodic hard cycling of the TV's power. Since there was already an Ethernet jack in place for another device, the plan was to get a cheap switch and some patch cables.

Appearance/Build Quality
The switch is pretty basic, with a small metal housing, a small power adapter, and some anti-skid feet. The power adapter is of the switching type, which is a plus. The metal housing is painted and stamped steel. The ports reuse the same LED for link status and activity (not my favorite). The anti-skid feet are a nice touch, but wholly inadequate for keeping the unit stationary if two or more cables are hooked up to the device. Think of it as protection for the desk/table surface, rather than something that will keep the unit put.

Performance
So, this is a basic, dumb switch - and it performs like it. Chariot runs were able to pass about 1820mbit/s full duplex and 940mbit/s half duplex traffic. There were no performance or stability issues. Aside from that there's not much to say. It works.

Special note: Metal vs. Plastic
Historically, I've always been a proponent of metal housings for my network equipment. That, incidentally would lead to me picking the TL-SG108 over the TL-SG1008D. However, it's 2019... the innards of the switch have been reduced to a switching or linear regulator, an integrated SoC, and PHY hardware. The whole thing consumes 4.5W, which means that the device is only shedding up to 4W of heat. That's nothing compared to the some of my old switches/hubs, which would pull 25+ watts. At this power level the case material is moot, but with the two devices being the same price the TL-SG108 seems like the better deal.

Conclusion
The TL-SG108 is fine... for my parents. I'm well past the time when a device like this would be welcome in my home. For that, I would take the TL-SG108E over the TL-SG108 EVERY SINGLE DAY OF THE WEEK. The separation of the link/activity lights is a plus, but the limited L2/L3 management features are a must on my network. The TL-SG108E model costs more, so it comes down to a matter of features... if you don't need any, the TL-SG108 will be fine for you. Conditionally recommended.

Will not allow renaming of default VLAN 1. If left as set from factory "Default_VLAN" throws error message "VLAN Name should not be more than 10 characters." Will not allow removal of any ports from membership in the first VLAN even if ports are members of other VLANs. Firmware upgrade does not fix anything. Do not buy this if you intend to use it for VLANs. You're better off with a GS1200-8 from Zyxel. Eight ports, costs about same, VLAN actually works.

The switch can only be configured using their "Unmanaged Pro Configuration Utility" which consists of 154MB in 643 files in 34 folders. Isn't that a bit cumbersome?

TP-Link is a value option. They are not bad switches for the home user or even the small home office, this is no secret, so in that regard, to rate it so lowly is unfair, but I am intending this for someone who has NO I.T. experience, beyond buying a new computer, setting it up, and maybe installing Windows.

I bought my switch Oct. 21, 2018, and it would have made it to my home within three to four days max, meaning it would have went into service on the 24th or 25th. It ran basically without flaw, maybe with about 2 weeks collective downtime. It never serviced more than about four ethernet devices at once, and sat on top of one of the exhaust grills of my comptuer, which probably got well over 90°F at times. It fell a few times within its service, and in the last week of me deciding to write this, there was a lighting strike in the area, but our house was grounded well, so none of the devices were touched, thankfully, and any surging that might've happened, my Home Network is completely isolated with Surge Protectors--if we had expected lighting, at the time there was none, I would have unplugged all of the surge protectors and the cable wire from its surge protector.

Within a day or so after that lighting strike, by sheer happenstance, the switch starts getting slow sometimes, the LED's get confused, which indicates to me that the PCB manufacturing is not the best--it's been dropped and even over the exhaust of a hot computer, that's not the kind of environment for a switch.

If I recall, the switch came with a one year warranty, which I put off registering for a few weeks, before I finally forgot. If you know anything about warranty calculation, they test a hundred or so devices, and take the average lifespan and round up or down accordingly, so enough of the units failed within a year's time on the low-end. This machine almost made it to a full year.

It is still working for the most part, but every day or so, sometimes more, sometimes less, it needs to be unplugged for it to start switching traffic again, I estimate to get another month or more out of it, at which case, I will be replacing it with an old 15 Mb/s Netgear router I have, as I do not need Gb speed at the time, until I need it again, then I will be replacing it with a Netgear Gb model. I have nothing really against TP-Link, But why buy another model and have it expire in a year, when I could pay a little more for Netgear and have it last a bout 2 and a half to three years minimum. (Cisco is out of my pocket book, lol.)

It was a good switch for a beginner, or to have as backup. If you want tax write-offs, hey.

So, why the three stars instead of four? Because I think a year only is a bit ridiculous, but maybe I just mistreated, and I did, but tech can be roughed around a bit.

My recommendation: if it's just for your home network, don't be afraid to go for it. If you primarily use wi-fi devices, hey, keep it and your desktop devices UNPLUGGED, when not in use, to save on electricity and extend the switch's life.

If you intend on using it for a small office that will be using a few computers, I wouldn't go with it, because of reliability.

Hey, it saw about 338 days of continuous use before really encountering an error--that's not bad.

Thank you for your time, dear reader, and I hope I've helped.

EDIT: Oct. 26, 2019, basically a week after writing this, it literally stopped working. Interestingly, it smells like magic smoke (melting fiberglass and plastic,) which may expediate my theory of how the lights are lighting up wrong. So, if I had to guess, perhaps the layers of the PCB are rather thin, IDK.