Отзывы о Медиаконвертер TP-LINK MC111CS V6
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TP-LINK MC111CS V6?
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My parents recently got an LG OLED TV set. The LG doesn't have the best wifi performance (despite the AP being in the same room as the TV), in terms of stability or throughput, and would require periodic hard cycling of the TV's power. Since there was already an Ethernet jack in place for another device, the plan was to get a cheap switch and some patch cables.
Appearance/Build Quality
The switch is pretty basic, with a small metal housing, a small power adapter, and some anti-skid feet. The power adapter is of the switching type, which is a plus. The metal housing is painted and stamped steel. The ports reuse the same LED for link status and activity (not my favorite). The anti-skid feet are a nice touch, but wholly inadequate for keeping the unit stationary if two or more cables are hooked up to the device. Think of it as protection for the desk/table surface, rather than something that will keep the unit put.
Performance
So, this is a basic, dumb switch - and it performs like it. Chariot runs were able to pass about 1820mbit/s full duplex and 940mbit/s half duplex traffic. There were no performance or stability issues. Aside from that there's not much to say. It works.
Special note: Metal vs. Plastic
Historically, I've always been a proponent of metal housings for my network equipment. That, incidentally would lead to me picking the TL-SG108 over the TL-SG1008D. However, it's 2019... the innards of the switch have been reduced to a switching or linear regulator, an integrated SoC, and PHY hardware. The whole thing consumes 4.5W, which means that the device is only shedding up to 4W of heat. That's nothing compared to the some of my old switches/hubs, which would pull 25+ watts. At this power level the case material is moot, but with the two devices being the same price the TL-SG108 seems like the better deal.
Conclusion
The TL-SG108 is fine... for my parents. I'm well past the time when a device like this would be welcome in my home. For that, I would take the TL-SG108E over the TL-SG108 EVERY SINGLE DAY OF THE WEEK. The separation of the link/activity lights is a plus, but the limited L2/L3 management features are a must on my network. The TL-SG108E model costs more, so it comes down to a matter of features... if you don't need any, the TL-SG108 will be fine for you. Conditionally recommended.
The switch can only be configured using their "Unmanaged Pro Configuration Utility" which consists of 154MB in 643 files in 34 folders. Isn't that a bit cumbersome?
I bought my switch Oct. 21, 2018, and it would have made it to my home within three to four days max, meaning it would have went into service on the 24th or 25th. It ran basically without flaw, maybe with about 2 weeks collective downtime. It never serviced more than about four ethernet devices at once, and sat on top of one of the exhaust grills of my comptuer, which probably got well over 90°F at times. It fell a few times within its service, and in the last week of me deciding to write this, there was a lighting strike in the area, but our house was grounded well, so none of the devices were touched, thankfully, and any surging that might've happened, my Home Network is completely isolated with Surge Protectors--if we had expected lighting, at the time there was none, I would have unplugged all of the surge protectors and the cable wire from its surge protector.
Within a day or so after that lighting strike, by sheer happenstance, the switch starts getting slow sometimes, the LED's get confused, which indicates to me that the PCB manufacturing is not the best--it's been dropped and even over the exhaust of a hot computer, that's not the kind of environment for a switch.
If I recall, the switch came with a one year warranty, which I put off registering for a few weeks, before I finally forgot. If you know anything about warranty calculation, they test a hundred or so devices, and take the average lifespan and round up or down accordingly, so enough of the units failed within a year's time on the low-end. This machine almost made it to a full year.
It is still working for the most part, but every day or so, sometimes more, sometimes less, it needs to be unplugged for it to start switching traffic again, I estimate to get another month or more out of it, at which case, I will be replacing it with an old 15 Mb/s Netgear router I have, as I do not need Gb speed at the time, until I need it again, then I will be replacing it with a Netgear Gb model. I have nothing really against TP-Link, But why buy another model and have it expire in a year, when I could pay a little more for Netgear and have it last a bout 2 and a half to three years minimum. (Cisco is out of my pocket book, lol.)
It was a good switch for a beginner, or to have as backup. If you want tax write-offs, hey.
So, why the three stars instead of four? Because I think a year only is a bit ridiculous, but maybe I just mistreated, and I did, but tech can be roughed around a bit.
My recommendation: if it's just for your home network, don't be afraid to go for it. If you primarily use wi-fi devices, hey, keep it and your desktop devices UNPLUGGED, when not in use, to save on electricity and extend the switch's life.
If you intend on using it for a small office that will be using a few computers, I wouldn't go with it, because of reliability.
Hey, it saw about 338 days of continuous use before really encountering an error--that's not bad.
Thank you for your time, dear reader, and I hope I've helped.
EDIT: Oct. 26, 2019, basically a week after writing this, it literally stopped working. Interestingly, it smells like magic smoke (melting fiberglass and plastic,) which may expediate my theory of how the lights are lighting up wrong. So, if I had to guess, perhaps the layers of the PCB are rather thin, IDK.
If you just need a POE switch, this switch is great, but if you want to use any of the VLAN functions for security, I'd suggest passing on this one.
I had tried a different port, as well as testing the CAT6 cable that I crimped myself from a commercial spool. The old/new cameras and cable are all perfect. Turns out it is the switch. I am not quite sure what is causing it to malfunction-it may have not even been noticeable with basic switch functionality or possibly other PoE devices... it is definitely noticeable with a live PoE camera that constantly loses signal (intermittently).
I should have checked my main Cisco enterprise switch log and would have seen this:
Jun 18 17:54:08.325: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:54:41.979: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:54:42.977: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:54:45.812: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:54:46.819: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:54:55.383: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:54:56.381: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:55:02.849: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:55:03.855: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:55:14.164: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:55:15.163: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to down
Jun 18 17:55:17.528: %LINK-3-UPDOWN: Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
Jun 18 17:55:18.535: %LINEPROTO-5-UPDOWN: Line protocol on Interface GigabitEthernet2/0/42, changed state to up
As can be seen from the above, the link is constantly going down and back up again. Shame on me for not looking at the log before swapping out the camera.
There is only 1 device connected to this switch, the PoE camera.
I wouldn't recommend this switch for professionals. If you are an amateur and don't really care if it works.. might be a good solution. Stick with the brands that represent quality .. Cisco/Netgear/Linksys/etc.
Using the same Ethernet cable that fed the switch I connected it to the Roku and was able to connect to the internet. The failed power adapter is rated 9V at 0.6A.
2018-01-05 UPDATE
I'm 2-years in on my first unit and 1-yr+ on my second one. I have these arranged in a bridge fashion with xx-ports going to unit #1, xx-ports going to unit #2, and a patch cable linking the two switches. I have had Z-E-R-O problems with these systems. They are fast and they work without any worry or maintenance whatsoever. At this point I'd call these BULLET-PROOF.
Need: I've Cat6 ethernet cable wired around my home for a 4-camera security system. These cables all terminate on a closet inside my utility room. However, I have the Camera-System-Receiver that sits in another room. So, I used this POE switch to power all the 4 cameras and then connect another Cat6 cable which is wired to run through dry-wall all the way to the Receiver.
Quality: The unit has a full metal housing, however it is not to be assumed that this makes it durable. It slipped out of hand when I was connecting the cables and fell to the tiled floor (probably a 3ft drop). The unit stopped working afterwards (connecting the power cable I heard a small frying sound, I assume some short-circuit inside). In short, I had to order a different unit to resume my security-system setup (lifetime warranty really helps for such cases). There are perforations on 3 sides (sides and bottom) for cooling the unit.
Mounting: My closet-box has is perforated. I used double-sided sticky tapes to simply attach the switch to the box. You may as well use the included flanges for mounting.
Power (available for consumption): Each port can provide up to 15W or so of power. For comparison, my Lorex camera needs 5W at max consumption. So, for my needs, this is not an area of concern. Any ways the switch has an indicator light if the connected devices exceed the max. supported power provided.
Smart capabilities: Honestly, I didn't use any of these. I configured static-IP/VLAN settings/address reservation etc. for the switch at Mesh-router config-settings.
Attaching a snap of my setup (in utility closet). Overall, no complaints except the durability aspect mentioned above, after a month of continuous usage. I'll update this review if I notice anything substantial.
First challenge - this is a managed switch - its got a management interface - so lets update the latest revision. - Last version was released Feb 2019. -
That would be fine maybe the product is full of enhancements and doesnt need upgrading.
Well it doesnt play very nicely with my checkpoint router (everything else I own does).
Once I downloaded the TP link Util as soon as I connected to the Switch it registered itself on the LAN.
time to change the password - sure- apart from this device uses a http session - not a https (self signed is fine in my book but it should be https)
Password complexity allowed is moderate -
The only two things I liked about this over an entry level POE switch
A) I can see the actual Power going to my POE devices
B) It has an integrated PSU.
However my big concerns are network security - and this is a managed device with poor security implementations so its going back... I'd prefer an unmanaged device or a device with a proper update cycle.
If you read other low star reviews you can see people discussing shortcomings on the VLAN side etc - I don't want to wait to discover all these fun things - back it goes - I'll spend less and go unmanaged or spend more can get a supported product
I used this to complete my network when prewiring a home I was building. While I have a pretty good understanding of networking, I'm far from being a network architect.
I used this to distribute internet connectivity throughout my house. Installation was quick and easy and I haven't had to give the switch any attention since installing it.
The reasonable and ordinary way to accomplish this is to use VLANs. You set up a VLAN that is port-based, and also tagged. So ports 1 and 2 might be on VLAN 2, and ports 3 & 4 on VLAN 3. VLANs 2 and 3 then squirt (now tagged) out another port which goes to the other end of the cable - where another switch converts them into port-based again.
So you wind up with a system that looks like two Ethernet cables, when you really only have one. This saves you from having to run the second cable.
It's a fairly common and ordinary use case.
UNFORTUNATELY, although this unit supports both port-based and tagged VLANS, it will not do both at the same time. You can have port-based....OR you can have tagged. But not both. Makes it useless for my purpose.
**UPDATE** turns out the ethernet cord included with the switch was defective. I replaced it with a 5ft amazon basics RJ45 CAT6 and now receive full speed 300mbps. Changing review to four stars because included connections were faulty. Also purchased a 5 port switch that had the same issue. Replaced the in box ethernet cable and that fixes my speed. Recommend not using the included cables.
Here is my experience so far
1. My serial would not register, registering is required for warranty. Lucky when you buy from amazon you always have a receipt. I had to email support to get them to register the serial so I could enter it.
2. Then I had to call support one registered and got a person from asia that had a hard time understanding me and i also had a hard time understanding them. I said I had entered my Invoice on the registration page but they wanted an emailed copy? SO I send them a copy while on the phone.
3. Waited a few days for them to respond.
4. Finally got my RMA but they provided no shipping address or instructions. Generally with a warranty a company say put this sheet into the box or write the rma number on the box. Nothing but follow the shipping instructions which I never saw. Maybe it was a popup that didn't pop who knows..
5. I am now into tis 6 days with a dead switch and trying to figure out how to ship this and to whom. I guess I will eventually get this replaced. I was lucky I had a D-Link spare 24 port switch.
I think from now on I will not purchase any TP-Link devices. I have had luck with TP-Link switches,wireless routers and repeaters but if warranty is this much of a hassle then there are many other companies with similar products IMO.
I purchased this TP-Link 8 port switch to handle my home network of computers (personal and business laptops for me and my wife, so 4 computers plus printer, router, and wifi. That's not a ton of traffic or playing games that consume a ton a bandwidth. On an intermittent basis the hard wired connections just bombed out.
Troubleshooting became a habit every third or fourth day. I checked with my service provider, double checked my router, wifi, cables, and switch. It was a bit crazy making, but after testing and getting other expert opinions, I swapped out my gigbit ethernet switch and all is back to being wonderful.
So, while this equipment was half off, I spent hundreds of dollars worth of time and dozens upon dozens of hours trying to fix or figure out something that was resolved by swapping out a simple switch for $30.
This is just my experience. You might have better luck with this product than I did. Good luck!
Fan is quite loud. This is not a unit you want in open air of an occupied room. Definitely plan on placing within an enclosure like a structured media center. Otherwise, its little fan is "microwave oven running" loud.
Caution: POE power limit is actually 110 watts, not the 124 watts in the Amazon product listing. This can be a problem at night with a full complement of eight PTZ cameras. You can easily go over the POE power limit. The switch will automatically shut down POE power starting with highest numbered POE+ port.
1. This is a PoE switch (802.3af), not PoE+ switch (802.3at), according to the Ruckus R710 wireless access point connected to it. The Ruckus is the ONLY PoE device connected to it, and the switch's status light does not indict any power budget overage. I chose this switch specifically for its claimed 802.3at capability as 802.3af does not provide enough power for Ruckus R710, forcing it to operate at reduced capabilities.
2. I then tried to contact TP-Link technical support. The chat page on their website hangs indefinitely. I called the 800 number and was put on hold for more than 30 minutes when I just gave up.
TP-Link folks -- if you are reading this review, please understand that you can't sell an "business" product in the US this way. Your product needs to conform to its published specs, and you need to have a reachable technical support during normal business hours. Otherwise you might as well say no support is provided. That'd be much better than wasting your customers' time before they realize that you really have no support!
If your switch ever needs replacement under warranty you are in for a very difficult time. TP-Link has the worst product/customer support I have ever encountered. July 11, 2016 I was issued a ticket number to get an RMA emailed to me. It’s now July 24, 2016 and nothing. Call after call and email after email with no success. They have my correct information and can’t get an RMA. Google their customer service review at: [...]
They have good products but don’t buy thinking that you have a warranty you can rely on.
What really stands out to me are all the protocols it understands to help shape traffic. It may be super easy to use with absolutely no setup, but that doesn't mean it is just a dumb switch. It understands VOIP and other prioritized traffic and sends those tags along appropriately.
Lately, I've been using these along with their Deco M5 wireless mesh system. The internet feed goes into one of the M5's, out to this switch, and then all the other M5's and wired peripherals plug into this. I've had to get the 16-port version of this as well for slightly larger installs. Every install was super easy and I get full gigabit bandwidth every time.
And the price? Are you kidding me - this is about as affordable as you can go before sacrificing quality and functionality.
The bad side - they came out with a plastic version of this in 2020 which isn't as good. Doesn't support all the same protocols. So I'll pay the extra few bucks to keep getting this one with the metal housing.






