Отзывы о Wi-Fi роутер D-Link DIR-815/S

In my capacity as IT admin, general geek, and most importantly family tech support rep, I make lots of recommendations for tech purchasing. So when both my parents and myself needed new routers to replace aging 802.11g routers, I went to work researching. Long story short -- this router from Dlink, the 605L, is extremely reliable and has excellent range, which are the most important criteria for home users.Solid routers are notoriously difficult to find/recommend. You may have noticed that even the highest-rated routers on Amazon (such as the Cisco-Linksys e4200v2 and the Asus Dark Knight n66u) both have as many as 15-30% 1 and 2-star reviews! Why is there so much divergence in opinion? For one, networking equipment performance varies depending on location installed, and the experience of the installer. Choosing the right place to put the router, upgrading to the most stable firmware, and choosing the right channel/band/bandwidth are just as important as the device itself.In my personal research I narrowed the field down to 4 models: two expensive, feature-rich models (the above-mentioned linksys and asus), capable of hard-drive/printer sharing, gigabit switch ports, and three-stream dual-band operation for maximum bandwidth, and two inexpensive but reliable, stable, and easily configured models (this model, Dlink 605L, and the linksys-cisco e3200). If the advanced features I just mentioned don't interest you, the cheaper models are all you need -- and at less than forty dollars, the 605L (this router) is a clear winner. (What about dual-band 2.4/5Ghz vs single-band 2.4Ghz operation of this router? In most locations, even though there is more traffic on the 2.4ghz band, it usually has better range. Bandwidth on the 5ghz channel tends to be higher but only at close to medium range. For most, 2.4ghz works just fine and supports the most devices.)I settled on the 605L and bought it two weeks ago, setting it up in a relatively central location in a medium-sized single story house. In that time it has operated reliably with zero connection drops or required resets since I plugged it in 2 weeks ago, which is a remarkable feat in and of itself. Also, it has excellent range; I would estimate the wireless range is in the 65-75th percentile for home routers and is comparable to the range of most $60-80 routers. My parents' furthest device is about 40 feet away with 4 walls in between, and it gets about 50% signal which is enough for ~50Mbit of bandwidth (half of what you get when you plug in to the 100Mbit ports on back of the router, of which there are 4). Since most home internet connections are less than 25Mbit, this is more than sufficient for 99% of people who might consider this router. From the same location, I was able to do a file transfer between two computers (the other plugged into the router directly) at a rate of 1GB/2.5 min, which is reasonably fast (about 7-11MB/s).Most important for novices is the easy setup interface. After plugging the device into your modem and a computer for initial setup with ethernet cables, typing in 192.168.0.1 takes you right to the web-based setup interface (admin/). You start with the simple setup wizard -- allowing you to set up your basic ISP settings and your desired WiFi name/password -- and for most people this is all they will need to setup and the router's default settings will take care of the rest. For advanced users, the manual settings provide a lot of additional control, such as parental controls, access lists, firewall tweaking, 40mhz band option, QoS settings, etc. But both routers I purchased were connected to the internet and all devices (asus laptop, mac mini, smart tv, roku, ipad, printer) with the basic setup option within 5 minutes.The 'cloud' features allow you to view/block connected devices and reboot the router from a website (mydlink.com), as well as seeing your current internet bandwidth use (an instantaneous poll of your current use -- not cumulative use). Handy for family techs.For its reliability, range, and simplicity, this is an excellent choice. (Other options under a hundred dollars to consider might be the linksys-cisco e3200 and apple's 2012 model airport express.Feel free to ask questions in comments.Tech specs:CPU: Realtek RTL8196C 5 port 10/100 switch & 32 bit RISC CPU SoCSwitch: Realtek RTL8196CRAM: 32 MBFlash: 4 MBRadio: Realtek RTL8192CE 802.11b/g/n 2T2R WLAN SoC------------An update, 7-nov-2012:I have been running this router since purchase months ago without restarting once due to connection issue! This is a small miracle. I continue to highly recommend this router, esp now.Competitive update:Asus has announced a soon to be available router, model RT-N12HP (google search if curious) that has huge 9dBi amplified antennas specifically designed for implementations where maximum range is required. If you have a largish area to cover, this router might be a better choice, though the release date hasn't been anno

I think if I had purchased this as my first or only router, it would have worked great right out of the box. So if you are buying a router for the first time, please don't hesitate to buy this. However, if you already have a firewall router that runs DHCP, and you want to add this as a wireless-N access point, then it might be a bit challenging. D-link includes only a "Quick Install Guide", and no other documentation. Their website is (in my opinion) very hard to navigate, so I resorted to google to find instructions on how to configure this as a wireless access point. Here's the info I found (pay particular attention to step 7):If you are connecting the D-Link router to another router to use as a wireless access point and/or switch, you will have to do the following before connecting the router to your network:• Disable UPnP• Disable DHCP• Change the LAN IP address to an available address on your network. The LAN ports on the router cannot accept a DHCP address from your other router.To connect to another router, please follow the steps below:1. Plug the power into the router. Connect one of your computers to the router (LAN port) using an Ethernet cable. Make sure your IP address on the computer is 192.168.0.xxx (where xxx is between 2 and 254). Please see the Networking Basics section for more information. If you need to change the settings, write down your existing settings before making any changes. In most cases, your computer should be set to receive an IP address automatically in which case you will not have to do anything to your computer.2. Open a web browser and enter [...] and press Enter. When the login window appears, set the user name to Admin and leave the password XXX empty. Click Log In to continue.3. Click on Advanced and then click Advanced Network. Uncheck the Enable UPnP checkbox. Click Save Settings to continue.4. Click Setup and then click Network Settings. Uncheck the Enable DHCP Server server checkbox. Click Save Settings to continue.5. Under Router Settings, enter an available IP address and the subnet mask of your network. Click Save Settings to save your settings. Use this new IP address to access the configuration utility of the router in the future. Close the browser and change your computer’s IP settings back to the original values as in Step 1.6. Disconnect the Ethernet cable from the router and reconnect your computer to your network.7. Connect an Ethernet cable in one of the LAN ports of the router and connect it to your other router. Do not plug anything into the Internet port of the D-Link router.8. You may now use the other 3 LAN ports to connect other Ethernet devices and computers. To configure your wireless network, open a web browser and enter the IP address you assigned to the router. Refer to the Configuration and Wireless Security sections for more information on setting up your wireless network.Hope this helps! The router is now working great as a wireless access point.

Swapped this D-Link out from the "old reliable" Linksys WRT54G router. That particular model had seen its age and I wanted to "update" my wireless network a little. Setup is pretty straight forward, if you have set up a router before using the gateway ip address, setting up your security (I suggest wpa2, not WEP) setting your broadcast SSID and a few other things are straight forward.As I'm currently enrolled in Comptia's Network+ Certification program, I've become a little more invested in customizing my network for increased security, connection and making use of all those other tabs no one uses on a consumer level.. The first problem with the DIR-635 had to do with my PCI wireless adapter. As soon as I booted up the router, I connected two laptops around 4 years old to the wireless without any problems, then, my PCI adapter would "see" the signal but could not complete a "handshake". It's fine, I invested in a USB LinkSyS Wireless adapter (I hate USB dongles but, never the less).After thirty minutes I was connected to the d-link and networking away. Connected a brother 2270DW printer with ease and shared it on the network. Soon, I noticed significant drops between my wireless adapter and the router. I checked my phone (HTC Inspire)did not lose signal at all. Hmmm..I ran a few tests, reinstalled the wireless usb dongle and it's still dropping. So, this could be a fault of either A)the usb dongle software b)my USB ports on my motherboard(which I doubt, I tested other devices successfully) or C)the USB dongle itself.A brief mention, I HATE usb dongles of any sort. While you're getting about the same "speed" of a hard wired or otherwise built in radio of laptops and desktops, using a USB dongle is an inefficient means of getting the best signal for short periods of time. Since the PCI card is plugged into the motherboard directly, it shares a different relationship with the CPU and without the technical jargon, provides a more "stable" means of connectivity. If it's plugged in and not working, try another PCI port, if both ports won't recognize the device, check another PCI device, if another works, it's the card.USB is great for transferring data, however, it's not "priority" when communicating with the CPU. Want an example? Put your PC into standby mode and plug in a USB dongle. "wake up" your PC and check what comes on first. The USB will normally be "last" since it's not priority on the system bus and often drops due to inactivity. Think of it as a light that goes off due to inactivity and you have to wave your arm every once in awhile to get it back up.Back on the D-Link, while I have a pretty different situation and I can blame my USB dongle, I noticed at times that the router would drop my signal and take more than a few tries getting connected back to the main gateway. This D-Link has a few features which I looked into to determine the cause, but, pinging back and forth between my PC and a website like google showed no packet loss.So either this is a flaw in the antennae or I have to look even further by contacting the ISP and make sure their modem speeds are correct coming into our house. (If you ever have constant drops or resets on your ISP modem but blazingly fast speeds, this is usually the technicians job to fix the issue.) Either way, this router does its job, but, I'd personally suggest Linksys or Cisco products, they range between $50+ but their design and technical support are great.When contacting D-Link , I was given the per usual, "is it on? Are other devices connected? Hmmm, it sounds like you need another wireless adapter."Some other suggestions, if you're a "gamer" meaning the words "camping" and "raid" mean something completely different too you, I'd suggest a direct connection to any router other than LinkSyS or Cisco, if you're looking for photo, video streaming and facebook this router is budget friendly and easily set up but it's prone to signal drops and complete failure at times.

We purchased this dLink cloud router to replace an aging router that was beginning to cause a lot of problems, especially because of download and upload speeds. We were impressed with the positive reviews on this router, and set up was pretty easy, taking about 45 minutes at most. We joined our newly created network with all five of our wireless devices -- our two Apple laptops, our iPhone, our iPad 2 and our HP Wireless printer. These devices were added one by one with no problems whatsoever. Gee, this was great, so far at least.I was the first one to have a problem. On the iPhone, I noticed when about 100 feet away from the router that my signal strength would fluctuate between one to two bars. This was not impressing me, as this signal strength was about the same as the outdated router we had just discarded. Then, I got kicked off the net. Not once, not twice, but three times within about 2 hours! But, just getting kicked off wasn't the worse of it. . . I had to go to settings, select my own network, and THEN, I had to rejoin!! Again and again, as if I was someone coming over to the home asking if they could connect to our internet -- each time I had to do the reconnect, I was required to input my password. Yet, anyone knows that once you give a password for an internet connection, that you should be "good to go" always. Then, my spouse began to have problems with connectivity with one of our laptops. I then downloaded the free DLink Lite app on our iPhone, and sure enough all five "clients" were listed as connected.Bottom line is we would give this router zero stars, if it were possible to do so.Did we configure it incorrectly? No. Our HP Wireless printer works on all devices, all devices found the network immediately after our set up. So, what else could it have been?? The fact that we have Apple products? I think that possibility is very slim. Perhaps this particular router was a lemon. Who knows? It's the only one I can review though, isn't it.We ultimately solved our problem by installing an Airport Extreme manufactured by Apple. Pricey, but well worth it.

This is good basic router; an excellent value for most home networks.It is relatively easy to set up using either the manual method or the automated method that the included instructions recommend. We've only been using it for a couple of days so far, but no dropping or intermittent connection issues for our 11 devices. It is not dual-band, which isn't really an issue for us, and it does NOT have IPV6, which some descriptions indicated it did have. That's not really a problem for most home networks at this point, but it could be a problem in the future if / when we run out of IPV4 addresses for stuff... At ~$40, it's a solid, reliable option for a basic home router.The caveats:- The 'my dlink' service touted by dlink as a way to (remotely, if you prefer) manage your connections is not very robust. The options to configure the router are minimal at best; the connections list is extremely slow to respond to requests to refresh it, and the 'blocking' capability requires that you know the MAC addresses of all the devices in your network- which might be easy for some people, but isn't very intuitive. It identified one of our Android ereaders as a 'suspect' device and recommended blocking it with no other information except a MAC.. It seems to drop some connections from the displayed list of connected devices without explanation or reason, even though I've physically verified the devices are still connected to the network.The 'my dlink' service also allows you to connect remotely using an Android device...which seems to me to be inherently full of security problems that I'd personally prefer to avoid.- The speed of the router is just "OK". It's fine for most networks in a smaller household, but it is nowhere near the specs listed on the box. Several organizations' testing has verified this.- You can't remove the dual antennas and add bigger/better ones to increase the gain; they are large and permanently fixed to the router (whatever happened to those nice 'screw on/off' connections?).Hope that helps!

This router is funky and has serious throughput problem on upload.1.Before firmware upgrade, I was getting terrible upload speed.Compare:Linksys wrt54gl flashed with dd-wrt mini:via wifi (with wpa2): download 15.96/upload 14.22 (I have 40down/20up here)dlink 600L, firmware version 1.00:via wifi (open): download 14.96/upload 5.22 (I have 40down/20up here)dlink 600L, after firmware update (to 1.13):via wifi (open): download 12.53/upload 5.41 (I have 40 megs down/20 megs up here)2. When I went to do the update, the interface would not keep the path to the bin file:REAL PATH: c:\dlink_dir600\PATH SHOWN IN THE INTERFACE: c:\fakepathIt worked, but I wasted time renaming the directory thinking it was too long, hence the name "fakepath". If it is a variable, what a stupid variable name.3. After the firmware update, the language changed to Porteguese or Italian or something on the easy setup page. Manual setup pages are still in English. Is that weird, or what?4. History of browsing does not work even though enabled in the router (Real-time Browsing History -- checked). Claim in the manual is:"You can monitor a user's online activity with real-time website browsing history"Interestingly, the word "history" is used in the manual only in this one sentence.There's nothing in the manual on how to activate browsing history.Not only does it not work, Dlink can't spell: "No record of any vistied history" is what is reported.5. Even though the router has the correct time, the notifications are coming through with the wrong date:Instead of 2012-12-13, the date stamp on the email notifications is 2012-01-20. What's with that?6. Even though the firmware is the latest, the option to be notified of a firmware update results in continued notifications that an update is available.

Bought this to try it out. Disappointed that DHCP and QoS didn't get enough Development and QA. Reserving IP addresses causes the router and device not to work. IP addresses reserved ON the router fails to appear correct on the clients. This causes the router and DHCP services to stop working. So everything on this router needs to be DHCP or set static on client devices for users that don't care about IP reservations. Reservations on this router seems to be broke. Unfortunately, this model router is no longer in production and development.Storage is pretty nice. Nice to have the ability to install any size SATA 2.5" drive. 320Gb drive is installed in mine. Works well. I watched a movie from it on my Mac Book Pro. I've only heard the fan come one during boot up. While watching the movie, it didn't come at that I could hear. I presume that some of the fan noise is only due to certain types or brands of HDDs used. Drives that run hotter will probably make the router warmer or hotter thus causing the routers fan to turn on.Wireless range is good and works well. 2.4Ghz only.Gaming is good using 1 xbox. Not sure about anything more than 1 xbox as it doesn't have any priority and QoS custom rule option like other DIR series routers have so multiple xboxes can be used better. My 1 xbox and game play is great. Played for hours with out any problems seen on my network.Eventually it will be removed from being a main host router to become a wired AP and NAS box.So if your not too worried about IP address reservations and QoS, this is still a good router. Works well for general use and users with out specific network needs and with the additional storage options and features, getting a new one might me a good choice. I got mine cheap, new and still in the box unopened.Visit the D-Link forums for additional help, information on this router and other D-Link model routers.Good luck.