Отзывы о Кулер для процессора Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360 RGB TR4 Edition
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Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360 RGB TR4 Edit?
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Update 08/29/2020
The tubing is not long enough to reach the processor if the fan is mounted upside down (as it should be). iF YOU DO A FRONT MOUNT the tubes should exit at the bottom of the radiator. The tubes should always come out of the BOTTOM of the radiator and go to the Cpu. They simply cannot reach the cpu.
This AIO struggles with a 10700k clocked at 5. Temps during stress tests (AIDA XTU, can reach 90-100)
Update
09/01
I'm overclocked stable at 5. My temps were too high during a stress test.
I exchanged fans on the unit. So i removed the sickle flow fans and replaced them with these : Scythe Kaze Flex 120mm Fan, Quiet Case/CPU Cooler Fan, PWM 300-1200 RPM. These are configured to push air through the radiator.
The difference is day and night. During a stress test I could not go above 70c.
COOLER MASTER SHAME ON YOU, what a headache this whole process has been. The moral of the story guys. DO NOT GO RUNNING TO BUY A 360 AIO COOLER INSTEAD OF THE 240.
Change fans. The Kaze fans are a revelation.
I also purchased two of these and shall be trying them against the Kaze
Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM, Heavy Duty Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 3000 RPM (120mm,
The problem is that the kaze work really well and are dead silent.
The Noctua (so i hear) (have not tried them yet) Sound like a jet engine).
Final update 09/06
I have tried multiple fans and multiple configurations, as well as multiple thermal pastes and well as multiple reseats.
The industrial Noctua fans changed the temperature 1c. So I cannot recommend. The final configuration I have selected and that works best with this system is two fans in front of the rad, and two behind. They are all 4 pushing air through the rad.
I did notice something else which needs to be mentioned.
I have tried multiple reseats. Some reaseats were a pea size shape thermal paste in the middle of the processor, then wiggle the head around whilst bolting it down.
Some reaseats were one pea size shape but spread on the processor, really thin with a spreader.
Some reseats with two pea size thermal paste, not spread and then spread.
I noticed a 6c gain (both idle and under stress) When "more" rather than "less" thermal paste was applied AND spread before attaching the head.
Artic silver 5, is less viscous than most other thermal paste. I used more of it (two pea size) and spread it out.
I am idling at 40 at 5gz and stress out at 70c-74c which is a huge improvement. Cinebench seems to stress the cpu more than most other stress tests.
The moral of the story. This is a keeper at 5hz with a 10700k. 4 fans need to be used in push configuration. Thermal paste needs to be spread in a more generous amount. I tried push and pull. It increased the temps considerably.
I had to wait 30+ days to receive all my parts for the build so I assume I can’t send it back through Amazon. I’ve put in a support ticket with CoolerMaster 2+ weeks ago and still no reply from cooler master to get a replacement piece..
I have contacted their support number 20+ times, they have no holds on their line, and they haven’t answered at all.
This was my first coolermaster product and probably my last. The install was quite easy, how ever the hardware is cheap, and their customer support is horrendous.
Over all this is one of the best all in one coolers designed for AMD’s Threadripper. In one of my systems, my 2950x idles around 33-38 degrees even over clocked. In stress test, my system does not go above 60 degrees.
RGB is good if that’s your thing….
Cons:
You must be careful installing the CPU mounting bracket. Be sure to tighten using the X pattern using your hands. Hand tighten it and be careful when you apply more pressure using a screw driver. Too much pressure will break the mounts if you use too much force because of the design of the mounting bracket. This is unforgiving design flaw and it will pop if tightened too tight.
Stock fans are a little noisy but work well. I always replace stock fans with the ugly brown ones….
Other thoughts-
I build a lot of PC’s for various people and I test hardware as a hobby. This is a good choice for Threadripper, but as I described previously, you must be mindful of how much pressure you apply to the CPU mount.
My CPU is overclocked, so my temperatures are higher than stock.
Removed another star over the RGB. It uses a manual control that goes inside the cabinet. Basically, it is something you set once. The features are reasonable but not very sophisticated for a 2020 cooler.
All in all, it seems to do the job fine. Our previous cooler, an NZXT Kraken K61 stopped working due to air bubbles and this one cools as well despite being only a single 120mm radiator whereas we had a dual, oversized 280mm before. The 3 star rating might be a little harsh given it does its main job well and the kit was complete including the thermal paste.
Update: I bumped it back up to 4. Cools well which is the main role. And, I think the RGB can interface into some RGB systems instead of via the physical controller it included. Our MoBo does not support that, but that is not the fault of the cooler. Still, the manual should be better.
So, I purchased the ML360 TR4 edition.
PROs
The biggest deal is that my CPU runs about 20 degrees cooler while idling and with the fans set to minimum. With the NZXT cooler, my CPU would max out at 68 degrees while running at 100%. All fans were running at full throttle and it was pretty noisy. This guy runs at about 62 degrees at 100% CPU usage and the fans are running at about 50% (I have a custom fan curve - more on that later). So runs cooler and quieter - that accomplished my primary goal.
Running cooler allows me to get about a 3% boost in max CPU processing power. Based on Cinebench v20 and 3Dmark TimeSpy Extreme benchmarks with the NZXT vs the Cooler Master, there is a measurable improvement, but not dramatic.
I have RGB light on the fans now - this was not a requirement for me, but it's nice.
CONs
No software. This may be a PRO for some, but having to adjust the fan curve in the BIOS was a bit of a pain for me, and doesn't allow for easy adjustments.
Pump is noisier than the NZXT pump. It's not a huge difference, but I can actually hear the pump, whereas I could never hear the NZXT pump (both are running at 100%). My computer is on an open test-bench-style case on my desk just 2 feet away from me. If it was inside any kind of enclosed case, you would not be able to hear it.
Cable management is BAD. Each fan has an RGB and PWM cable. The cables are all separate and are not that long. The PWM cables connect to a 3-way splitter that then plugs into the motherboard. The RGB cables plus into a 5-way splitter that plugs into a tiny RGB controller. This means quite a few cables to manage and I have not been able to tuck everything away nicely so that it's all out of sight. Also, the RGB cable is not long enough to plug into the RGB header on my video card, so I am stuck with only the options on the little mini RGB controller. Again, I have a very open setup, so there aren't a lot of places to hide cables, so this is a pretty big CON for me. If this was inside an enclosed case, it would probably not be an issue.
So, temperatures are reduced, and noise is about the same overall (less fan noise, more pump noise). Overall, probably not worth the cost to upgrade my NZXT, but it's definitely worth an upgrade if you are running on air.






