Отзывы о Фотоаппарат Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III Body
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Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III Body?
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Since then I have professionally used a EOS 620, 650, D30, (not 30D) 1D, 1DMk2 and my latest, the £6,000 1D Mk3.
It's simply not up to scratch with the focus.
It has front focussed out of the box, and although I know there is a compensation that can be dialled in, why can't a £6K camera perform like it's previous incarnations?
The focus is random on my camera to say the least, I have lots of shots out of focus that I didn't have with previous cameras.
I have also had the Err 99 appear and it has locked up on me with a 35 -350 L lens on a couple of jobs which has lost me shots. I have booked the body in for a examination following a recall from Canon, (I thought it was just me) so hopefully that will sort out the problems.
Rant on: Canon have been targeting pro-am photographers with their 10D 20D, 30D, 40D 5D and now the 5D MK2 (with no Autofocus on video) who are going out making money with good quality cameras, but they don't have the £6K capital investment to recoup. Hence lower assignment prices (or hopefully for the toggie, bigger profit margins) which makes it tougher for the pro forking out for the pro bodies to get an equivalent ROI (Return On Investment).
I also use Mac computers, who have a similar "we're the best, so we can charge more than the rest" Well, I have had issues with my new MacBook Pro case bending (heat?) and a new Mac Pro straight from Apple with a bent grill, which they are refusing to change as I left it too long to open the box. Rant off.
Update March 2013:
Still soldiering on with a +3 autofocus correction dialled into custom functions and the results are random. I always focus on the eyes with people and can take a series of shots and have a few with the focus on the wrong spot. My old 1D Mk2 is still spot on focus-wise. I see Amazon have decided not to sell the 1DX - wonder if there is any connection with my review of my poorly performing 1D Mk 3s?
Update December 2013:
I still use the 1Ds Mk3 and was photographing a wedding on the 23rd December and I was in the bride's hotel room photographing her - after 44 frames I pressed the shutter button and nothing happened - like the battery had died - although the display was still on - battery was of course charged up!
I tried switching off then on again, which sometimes clears a fault like this, but no joy - display on but controls not working.
I then tried battery out - wait 10 seconds and then back in - no joy, this time the display was blank like a flat battery. I had to finish the wedding with my trusty backup 1D Mk2
When I got back home I tried the Mk3 and it worked for a few frames, then on swapping the memory card it locked up again.
So back to Canon and I will sell it when it is fixed. FWIW I had almost every shot in focus with the Mk 2, something the Mk 3 would not have come close to!
Google me: Spike Photography if you want to ask me about EOS 1D MK3 OR MacBook Pro I am happy to talk or email you.
Cheers
Spike



1D Mark 4
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1Ds Mark 3
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The full frame 5D models have the same flaw. Track moving subjects using a perimeter focus point, and you'll still have to throw away many pixels later cropping to a pleasing 2/3 composition.

I am an advanced amateur and was using the 5D Mark I for the past 2.5 years. I loved the images but hated the focusing. In any kind of shot that involved focusing on a subject moving at walking speed, (or less) the 5D would fail to snap into focus. The second shot would never be in focus. In lower light situations (typical interior lighting, not candles), the 5D was even worse. Sometimes the focusing would force the lens to go to maximum close/distance as the 5D hunted for focus - even when the lens was basically in focus to start - this was guaranteed to miss the shot.
The 1Ds, on the other hand, is great at focusing. Super fast, subjects snap into focus quickly, and focusing continues onto 2nd shots and more. And it will focus on lenses that are 5.6 and above - something the 5D did not do (try a telephoto with a filter or extender). From what I can read, the new 5D Mark II has basically the same focusing system so it is not improved in this area.
What kind of shots am I talking about? Shots of people,kids, basketball, soccer, bands, parades, candids on the street, street life, travel, animals in the wild or at home - I would include most everything except still life/landscape photos. Generally any shot you would not be making with a tripod is a situation where the 1Ds' focusing is vastly superior to the 5D.
High resolution is great. But out of focus shots are not keepers.
Finally, the 1Ds Mark III is much more solid than the 5D - everything from the controls to the shutter sound. I love this camera. My only wish is that it were the same size as the 5D since most shoulde camera bags don't account for its height. I don't mind the weight since the the weight of the lenses I am carrying is much heavier than the camera.

1st. The feel, just like the 1D M3, this beast is solid. Not too heavy, but solid in the hand. And here in Alaska, I do put the weather sealing to a test, and just like my trusty 1D M3, the 1Ds passes with flying colors.
2nd. Yes its 21.1 MP, but that should not be your main consideration to buy it. Yah 18x12 @ 300Dpi out of the Camera is nice, but nost people dont print over 16x20, and I have sold a lot of prints from my old 20D at that size or even upto 20x30, as long as you shoot it right in the first place. But this is also a drawback as well. Because of the large file size, esp in Raw, and most, if not all, buyers of this body will/should be shooting in raw, be aware that you will need larger CF cards for it. At least 8gig, I use 12Gig for mine, extreme 3's and they work great! Also be aware if you use the internal high iso noise processing, it slows down the buffering a lot!!!
3rd. Full Frame, just like the earlier 1Ds models its a ful frame sensor. That means 2 things, not only does a 17mm or 14mm lens again be a true wide angle lens, but also with the larger sensor the pixels are more refined and this gives better color and less grain.
4th. The colors of the images in the files. WOW Again the 14bit processors are great!!! Esp for raw, where you can import it in as 16bit for the finer details. One draw back is if you use Photoshop, you will need CS3 to do the raw Conversions, unless you use the Canon program.
5th. You are approaching the image quality of a Dig MF camera, with the portability of a Dslr! Not to mention you can use all the Canon EF lenses, and this camera really should only be used with L series lenses when possible, except for the fisheye as its not made in an L series but the quality is very good anyways. As the Quality of the optics is what affects the quality of the image the most, other than settings in the camera, ie shutterspeed and AV, ISO, etc...
6th. Wonderful Accesories for the camera. I love my wft-e2a. I use it on my 1D M3 a lot and it works great on the 1ds as well. Its a great way to control your camera remotely or to send your files to a remote computer for processing and such while you are still shooting.
This Camera is great. I have used the new nikon d3, and its a much improved camera over the past models, but it does not compare to the top of the line Canon!!!! This camera will not let you down. The noise if shot right is not even noticed until iso 1600 and then you still got to look. ISO 3200 is still great (about the same noise/grain my buddy had on his d200 at iso 400!!!!!)! If you are a Pro and need a camera that can perform the best and give wonderful results, this is it. It kicks butt compared to anything else in the DSLR market!!!

Like many others, I abandoned the Nikon camp when there was no sensible upgrade to the D100 at the time the 20D was launched. With the D300 and D3, Nikon now has gotten a lot better, and depending on your needs, one company may be better than the other. In particular, the 1ds III is better at studio photography and perhaps tonal range than the D3. The D3 is much better at low light photography, and is better for sports photography (especially sports photography that doesn't demand the highest resolution).
But, if you're already invested in one manufacturer's lenses, don't switch. Both Canon and Nikon will continue to leapfrog each other for the foreseeable future, and ain't life grand because of it!
Now to specifics:
1. As impressed as I am with the resolution of the 1ds III, I'm even more impressed with the dynamic range. You should absolutely only shoot RAW -- never JPEG! And make sure your workflow is 16 bit Prophoto; I use Lightroom and Photoshop CS3.
2. Spending $8K on a body and using cheap lenses is silly. I use the 16-35 II zoom, the 24-70/2.8, the 135/2.8, and the 100-400. I also enjoy the 50/1.4 and the 24/2.8 Tilt/Shift lenses.
3. Buy a decent tripod and perhaps monopod. Gitzo carbon is my favorite, but they're a bit pricey...
4. Buy a UDMA compact flash card. I got the Crucial 8Gb Lexar Media Professional Udma 300X Compactflash Cf8Gb-300-380, and then the Sandisk 8GB EXTREME III SDHC SD Card Class 6 (SDSDX3-8192, Plastic Case) for the SD slot. For me, the SD card is for overflow. You should also get a CF UDMA reader.
Suggestion for Canon: I'd really like a mode where pictures are striped across the two cards (shot one to CF, shot two to SD, shot three to CF, ...). This would give a strong measure of protection against one card failure (you'd still have half your shots) without sacrificing space. I bracket a LOT, and a typical day of travel photography will fill both cards!
5. The leads to the next point: buy an extra hard disk to take on the road. I use a 320GB 2.5" USB drive. I download shots to my notebook, do a little editing in Lightroom (tossing the undeniably bad shots), then back up the day's work to the external hard disk.
And I'll echo what another reviewer said. If you take a lot of pictures, think of this camera as a three year investment. If you take care of it, you'll get a good resale value -- and instead of an $8K sunk cost, you can think of it as a ~$1500/yr "camera tax." ($8000 - ~$3500 resale - 3*$1500.) Cheap, huh!
Finally, I get a lot of enjoyment out of my 1ds III. It is one of my truly prized possessions, and has greatly improved the quality of my photographs. I bet it does the same for you.

Why would someone buy this body instead of the Canon EOS 5D Mark II? Because of the build of the body, the durability of the shutter and battery life. These three factors provide the user with a camera that can withstand the extremes of nature while working.
This camera is heavier than the 5D, even if the 5D has the optional grip, so if you don't like a camera with mass, this camera is not for you.
I have used this camera in the rain, sleet, snow, and the heat of summer. It has performed flawlessly. The resolution provides enough data for beautiful 24"x36" prints.
Yes, I'm a professional photographer and am immersed in the software and hardware to make photographs. I'm aware that there's much more to photography than the camera body, but it's the camera body & sensor that's the cornerstone for great images.



My five favorite improvements in no particular order.
Faster and more accurate autofocus
Less noise at high ISO making 3200 a viable choice.
File quality that beats many 22MP medium format digital backs.
Live preview, it's cool, fun, and useful.
Improved handling due to lighter more balanced feel
Yes I know number three will get me in trouble but the price, faster handling, and much broader lens selection make it great choice in the 22 to 30MP range. The 39MP backs are clearly more detailed and smoother but this Canon will push many a P25 and H3D-22 onto ebay in the next year.
Canon has set the standard again the mk3 is truly brilliant. The only better deal may be the well cared for used mk2's easily found on ebay.
I just wanted to add a comment regarding cost. Now that my second mk2 has found a new home I can evaluate the true cost of an $8000.00 dslr. I paid $7300.00 each for my mk2s. Sold them for an average of $3620.00 making the cost if you add in an extra battery and firewire cables for three years around $4000.00 each. I anticipate this kind of return for the mk3s and considering they will work in a high demand professional environment for three years or so I'd say the mk3 is a ridiculous bargain.
By the way both of my mk3s have performed flawlessly and were spot on with regards to viewfinder alignment.



Specifically:
1. It has an unacceptably high incidence on "Err99" error codes which disable the camera altogether until it is sent back to Canon for repair.
2. It has an unacceptably high rate of viewfinder misalignment incidences where the viewfinder shows the horizon to be horizontal but the horizon in the image taken isn't.
3. It fails to operate the programming of Canon's own 580 EX flash (the non-version-II).
4. Resolution may well be 21 megapixels, but that is only 25% more in each the two linear dimensions compared to the 5D that costs a fraction of the cost. (square root of 21/13).
5. The image "noise" at high ISO settings is much higher than that of the much lower priced 5D. This is inevitable since the imaging array of the 1Ds has more pixes within the same area, so each pixel is smaller. For high ISO settings I have to revert to the 5D. This limits the camera's usefuleness to bright light situations only.
6. The artificially inflated price (by limiting supply, in the classical supply and demand argument) is outrageous. Canon needs to be taught some humility and customer-relations as soon as other brands offer similar full frame resolutions.


The image quality of the camera is undeniably great. The user interface is more complex than the Nikon D3, for example, with deeper menus. Canon gives you dozens of options for what to do with the two memory cards, for example. The camera sorely needs a "help" button.
What else could this machine use? A built-in GPS and built-in WiFi.
Do you need it? Not unless you are going to make some truly huge prints and you are intending to be disciplined about tripod and lens. Pictopia made us some 20x30" prints from the EOS 5D (13 MP; one quarter the price) that looked great.






единственное, следует принять во внимание и то, что объектив внутренний адаптер имеет две особенности:
1. Есть диафрагма фиксированная, что мне кажется, что это ближе к f/4. Использовать объектив более открытой (f/2, например) создает эффект soft focus в образ, что это не то, что искал во многих случаях.
2. Da линзы коэффициент увеличения 1.4, что может не повлиять слишком. Однако если вы не пользуетесь камерой, Full Frame, также необходимо принимать во внимание коэффициент расширения обрезки. В камере, как T5 или T6 например, с кроп-фактором 1.6 примерно, сочетание может сделать 50 мм имеет поле зрения 100 мм, что важно учитывать.

Осталось чуть чуть в некоторых объектив, но это лучше, что останется рыхлой и между светом или не чувствуют себя в безопасности соединения. Определенно куплю Fotodiox Pro экономичный вариант адаптеров в будущем.

