Оперативная память Silicon Power SP016GBLFU240BS2 — 155 отзывов, плюсы и минусы
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Silicon Power 16GB 2400MHz CL17 (SP016GBLFU24?
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No extra formatting needed, pop it into the ps4 and let it take care of things from there. The initial set up is slow BEFORE it asks to initialize, but after that it's super snappy!
The noticeable speed difference will come when you launch bulky applications like: Photoshop, games, photos, etc. Boot time will vary depending on different factors.
The Silicon SDD speeds are the same as the Samsun 860 EVO 1TB (Up to 550/520MB/s seq read/write speeds). My tests are showing A55-1TB Silicone SSD with 550/440MB/s (screenshot posted with this review). My speeds are not tested with an "Empty" drive the A55/SSD was tested with a fully functioning OS on it (20% of the drive filled during testing). This is a fast drive at a reasonable price.
IF, anything should occur with the hard drive over a period of time I will return to update this review (if possible). I am using three different variants of the Silicone SSD: 1TB, 480GB, and 256GB. (desktop, laptop, desktop) All three SSD drives are meeting or exceeding their competition's speeds.
A note to all Windows users, please change your advance settings / hard disk timeout in your control panel unless you don't care about very noticeable lag spikes when you open or launch applications/documents. This is under "control panel", top right search box type "power", left window "Edit power plan". "Change advanced power settings", Expand "Hard disk" by clicking on the + symbol to the left of it. Click on the + symbol to the left of "turn off hard disk after", click on "Setting" change to 0 minutes. (do this for M.2/NVME/SSD) otherwise you will wonder why your highspeed drive is acting "slow".
UPDATE: I have now purchased about 5 Silicon SSD (2.5) drives. ALL 5 are still working very well 5 months in. I have done speed tests on a few of them every month (I have multiple sizes: 256, 512, 480, 1TB) The speeds are stable. Meaning you will get a slight variation (either faster or slow) in the speed test numbers but nothing dramatic. If you are concerned about data loss, get a second hard drive (mechanical if you wish). Go get Macrium Reflect, home edition, and you can make a direct copy of your OS boot drive into an image file. Macrium is a UK based software company that has powerful free (home edition) software. YouTube has wonderful videos on how to do this, very simple. Remember to buy a USB stick (2GB more than enough) to make a media boot for recovery purposes.
I wanted to be sure the drive was faulty and that its performance wasn't how SSD's were supposed to perform, since this was the first SSD I had ever bought due to it being the cheapest price at the time of purchase ($149.99 when I bought it, but it is $108.99 at the time of this review), so I bought a Samsung SSD for comparison. The Samsung SSD has not suddenly stopped being recognized by my computer or suddenly disconnected even once. It is only this Silicon Power SSD that is unreliable to the point of unusable.
Now that I've been able find time to slowly and painstakingly transfer all of the data I had on the Silicon Power SSD to my new Samsung SSD to be able to return this faulty SSD, I'm past the date where I can refund or even exchange my Silicon Power SSD. To add insult to injury, when I go in to my Amazon orders to try to get product support for this SSD, the product support for this SSD has just passed its window for me, too. There is no way I can get my money's worth or my money back, much less help for this SSD, and now I'm just stuck with a dead weight of a faulty product. $150 down the drain. Thanks, Silicon Power and Amazon. Don't throw your $109 down the drain, too.
Drive crapped out after 2 days.
Another mistake is I didn't use it within the first month of purchase, it's just I like to keep an SSD handy for any PC or Laptop upgrade.
First: the drive did pretty well installing Windows in Precision workstation.
Then, a few days after, the machines stopped seeing the drive.
After a series of troubleshooting, the machine was able to see the drive, I had to reinstall the Windows and all the applications and data again.
Few days after the second installation, the machine stopped seeing the drive, but in all scenarios, the machine is working perfectly fine with it's older HDDs.
I tried connecting it to another workstation as an external drive, which I was able to read it after a couple of trials, but there's no point of reading it as external drive.
It's now a piece of garbage that I paid $90 for "Amazon choice"!!
And YES: I am an expert computer engineer.
Benchmarks: 301 MB/s sequential. Overall benchmark at 71% (performing way below expectations - 17th percentile).
Dont waste your money. Go with a Samsung or better yet if your board accomodates it, a NVMe.
The drive comes with NTI Echo software (for download), which cloned my old spinning terabyte drive in about three hours. For whatever reason, my BIOS sees the new SSD as a USB FDD, rather than a hard disk. I wanted to keep the old disk for backup/extra storage, so I just changed the boot priority to USB FDD, then Hard Disk, then CD ROM (yep, I still have one of those). This allowed me to boot from the new drive, while keeping the old one online.
Windows 10 sees the cloned drive and won't allow the old one to be accessible, due to a cloned drive signature. Just type "Disk Management" in the task bar, and you'll see the old drive marked OFFLINE. Right click it, change it to ONLINE, and then Windows changes the disk signature and assigns a drive letter. Problem solved.
Now I have a fast boot drive with all my apps intact, and a secondary drive for additional storage. Best upgrade I could have installed, and it was cheap too
Took the drive out to put on a USB adapter. The first thing I noticed was how hot it was. Much hotter than that comparable SanDisk right next to it. Keep in mind that at this point they were just kind of idle since the system wasn't even booting, and it took at least a minute for me to get to the drive inside the laptop, which gave it time to cool.
On the USB adapter, there were zero issues detecting the drive, accessing data, and browsing around. Full checkdisk revealed no errors. When the laptop was failing to boot, it always referenced winload.exe as the problem, so I did a CRC on that compared to one of the same file version, they were identical (indicating no problem), and the Microsoft signatures were in tact as well. Basically, the disk worked flawlessly to the naked eye.
Stumped, I recalled the noticeable heat, and given that I was outside the return period and saw another review about RMA problems, decided I'd like to avoid that. So I removed the metal shell in order to permit better dissipation of heat. NOTE: Where this drive is being used, there is zero risk of the PCB or any of the drive's circuits from coming into contact with other components, there is plastic sandwiching the whole thing and the small and light PCB hovers away from any other surface--I would not do this if there was risk of contact with other metal. I affixed a small piece of tape to the two SATA connectors to bond them and ensure no chance of it ever wiggling out (the laptop is mostly stationary because it's a larger gaming laptop).
So far, this has worked, and I've seen no further issues.
-- UPDATE: About one month since removing the metal shell for heat management, and still no bluescreens nor any other issues have been observed.
You may get a good one, or you may encounter the same problems I had. For a raid (or other redundancy mechanism) I'm a big advocate of mixing different vendors' drives as long as they have similar characteristics, since a bad batch is more likely to affect multiples of the same model bought at the same time.
Silicon Power does provide free software for download to check and monitor the health (and check the SMART stats) of their SSD drives - SP Toolbox. I would recommend downloading the free utility from SP's website for occasionally checking and ensuring your drive is in good health. From a transfer rate perspective, this SSD works as advertised, and performs as well as a Crucial MX SSD 3D NAND that I also have installed in the same desktop system.
SSD's are best for general purpose use - primarily as boot drives for OS and apps, especially on laptops. The OS will boot much, much faster from a SSD compared to a mechanical HDD, and the SSD will consume a lot less power than a mechanical HDD. Apps also launch in a fraction of the time on a SSD. The only drawback with a SSD is its overall shelf life - it has a limited number of writes, which not a huge factor if you're only using the drive for booting the OS and running apps. For media storage, backups, databases, and large files, mechanical HDD's are still the way to go, and they're still a lot less expensive than a SSD. Over time, if you write or delete a lot of data from a SSD drive, performance will begin to deteriorate. Most however will not encounter much in the way of performance degradation, even after several years of drive use. Either way, SSD is best for "read" operations, and will vastly outperform a mechanical HDD for reading data, hence the much faster boot and app launch times. They are well worth it for the performance boost...time is money.
Silicon Power seems to be making quality drives that work, but time will tell. If it fails or clunks out early, I'll be back here to modify my review. Otherwise, no complaints, 5 stars.
Installation was simple. I have a USB to SATA adapter that I bought when I upgraded my first one. I used Macrium Reflect to clone the drive, expanding the windows partition to use the extra space (my original HD was only 500GB). Once it was done, I found a YouTube guide for replacing the drive in my particular laptop. About a dozen screws later, I had the hard drive replaced. Reassembly was quick and easy, and now my laptop boots up in seconds.
I know you're thinking, "Why give it 5-stars then?" Because the problem went away after I disabled power management on the SSD, and now it works great and is very fast as well. I'm getting over 430 MB/sec read and about 400 MB/sec write speeds with the drive 3/4th full. Definitely worth it for the $$.
If you're thinking about this drive, and I recommend it myself, you should disable low power management as part of your installation. In Windows 10, go to Settings > System > Power and Sleep > Additional power settings, then next to the Power Plan, select Change Plan Settings, then Change Advanced Power Settings. When the window opens, go to Hard disk > Turn off hard disk after, and select "0" or "Never".
I called Amazon to wonder about the extended warranty, and they told me I should talk directly to silicon power.
I spoke to the customs rep, very nice and kind people, they asked me to pay the fee to return the drive.
I paid FEDEX shipping from Mexico to the USA. 2 days later they had it.
And guess what they did? they sent it back to me in USPS. Now, USPS is very good in the US, but postal service in Mexico SUCKS. The item is now lost or stolen. and the reps in Silicon Power only tell me to wait a little longer, I guess they want me to wait for the warranty to be void so they can skip their responsibility.
Why do you sell items to OTHER countries if you are NOT going to properly give support to the customers?
What happens:
PC works fine for a few days, then the drive stops being detect by windows, or I get an error when trying to view the contents of a folder on the drive saying it's inaccessible. I've formatted and re-partitioned the drive and the issue persists.
Rebooting the PC doesn't fix the issue. I have to power it down for 5-10 minutes then it will work. It has some kind of intermittent problem when it is left running for long periods of time.
I did a few speed tests before and after. This drive is SATA 3 so the bottle neck is the interface itself. The SSD saturates most of the bandwidth ( a good thing)
Definitely worth the price. If you want blazing speed you get a m.2 drive instead of sata. But you work with what you have.
I decided to purchase the drive because some reviews gave the drive and software
good reviews. I've used SP products in the past and have had no problems.
This time was different!
The software downloads, and installs fine. The GUI is clean and simple.
Then the trouble started, after hitting OK to start cloning.
The NEAT cloning software write a config file to the old hard drive.
and it re-writes the Master Boot Record. This is one of the critical
parts of you Win10 system. It must load and operate correctly.
It didn't ask for permission, or to make a bootable USB.
It just replaced the critical files with its own proprietary junk.
This is like poring gasoline on a wokken bridge, lighting it behind you
as you walk across. If it works, great! If not you have just destroyed your way back.
I called their customer support, got a hold of the very pleasant (albeit clueless) support person.
She said they only did support via email. Obviously a problem since my computer wouldn't boot.
After slowly type an e-mail on my phone, half a day later I got a hold of a customer support person.
The first email had a list of instructions that just didn't work (i.e command not found). The next e-mail
at least worked, but didn't fix the problem. After a grand total of two e-mails I heard nothing more from
the software support at NEAT.
If you decided to buy this drive, please use other software.
Acronis works very well, or Clonezilla. Of choose a different SSD supplier that uses
better software (like Samsung or Crucial)
Anything that does not have the potential destroy your hard drive while upgrading.
This should have been an easy 1 hour upgrade, instead it took three days.
FYI my test bench used for this Silicon Power 1TB SATA, WD Blue 1TB SATA, Crucial MX500 1TB SATA, and Samsung 860 1TB SATA:
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X stock
Gigabyte B450I ITX mobo
Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 C15 (XMP enabled)
Corsair RM750X 80+gold
Asus Strix GTX 1080 stock
It's not very consistent and will break in performance. You can clearly see this with gaming and video editing.
Gaming: the fps will fluctuate very low when loading new areas of the map. This is the result of the drive trying to read the new zones and let the video card produce the graphics.
Video editing: the timer on the editing goes up and down dramatically. It's not consistent and I've done nothing but watch the video recording in progress.
Samsung magician shows the benchmarks go up and down with read and write speeds.
File transfer shows the same issue when moving large files from nvme to ssd.
NVME SSD:
It's the perfect drive out there. I ditched my old 960 Evo 256gb for this. It boots faster. Transfer files faster. Edit videos faster. Literally everything faster (including breaking down faster than the 960 Evo).
Why it breaks down faster? TLC have a much shorter lifespan than MLC. However, that time it takes to use up all the read and write on the SSD would be in the years. By then, a newer technology will arrive.
This drive went into a PS4 as a replacement for the stock 500GB HD. Not only did it double the capacity everything got faster. Oh and it took 5 minutes start to finish. Seriously, if you have a console (PlayStation/XBox), do yourself a favor and get an SSD.
The other two drives I use through external enclosures as backup drives. I would not trust these drives for primary installations of an operating system. It is safer to use them sparingly to back up data that is not changed much, e.g. for music, videos, etc. storage that is read more than written. The value for the money is really not worth it. I recommend people do research to find the most durable/reliable SSDs for installing an operating system or for other heavy use.
At least whenever the drive came back up I never had a problem rebooting and the drive never was corrupted or lost any data. Which is the reason why I call it a "graceful fail out of the box."
Finally I decided to get a new drive (Samsung EVO) and replaced the SP drive. At that point I was not certain that the problem was the SP drive's fault as it could have been a bad motherboard as well. But after a successful drive swap I placed the old SP drive in a USB cradle on the same machine to monitor it. And, yes, after 5 days the MAC suddenly complained that I had removed the SP drive without first ejecting it. It had simply vanished on its own volition from both Finder and the Mac's drive utility. It only re-appeared after power cycling the drive.
My experience doesn't mean that all SP drives are bad but I have dealt with maybe a dozen SSDs and this was my first bad experience with one.
Secondly, upon receiving my package, I noticed the SSD was placed inside a large envelope with no protection whatsoever, which allowed it to move all over the place. It didn’t end there. As I pulled it out of the ridiculous envelope, I noticed it was ripped and partially exposed. Doesn’t look used so I guess that’s a good sign.
And lastly, I did some benchmarking and the results are absolutely underwhelming. Even my 8 year old Samsung 840 Pro blows this thing out of the water. Only thing installed on the Silicon Power SSD is ARK Survival Evolved. Tried installing the websites programs, but the Sandbox isn’t reliable at all, and there was no firmware update. The price was exceptional at $93 when I bought it, and it’s even cheaper now. However, it’s slower than every other drive of mine, and they are all much older. I give this drive a Meh at best.





