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Grohe 34744?
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When installing make sure you take note of the "H" (for hot) and "C" for cold molded into the area by the inlets, as this dictates which side is hot vs cold water. If you install it upside down (which can be done if you aren't paying attention), then your shower will start out with hot water and then go to cold water as you turn the lever further.
The main reason these fail is because Grohe used small plastic balls in the design of the shut off, which break after a while. If they had used metal, these would probably last 50+ years. If you take apart your faucet and you find a little white half ball looking piece of plastic in there, then you know that this is the reason your shower is leaking and also that replacing it with a new part will most likely solve the issue.
Note also, when installing a new part, you want to put a little of the supplied grease around the O-rings, so that it will slide into place without disturbing the O-ring or inducing any small tears. Also, make sure there is no debris around each of the inlet holes in the main brass fixture, as this can cause the O-rings to not seat properly.
I'm attaching a photo of our original part from 1999, showing the part # of the old part.

The large O ring behind the cover plate is a 2" ID 2 1/8" OD 1/16" width. It's a Buna-N 70A No 033 O-ring. They cost a dime, but you'll likely have to buy 25 of them for $2.50. Grohe wants you to pay them $50 for an entire valve body when the leaking from the middle of the housing is caused by a bad O-ring. And they don't sell the O-rings! They won't even tell you what O-ring it is. Thanks Grohe.
Home Depot doesn't carry these large O-Rings either. You'll have to find them on line or buy them at a plumbing supply house--if they carry them. Often you can find the right ID/OD but the O ring is thicker. Do Not Make the Mistake of using an O ring that is thicker than 1/16". If you use a thicker O ring, the housing won't seat properly. If the leaking is coming from the brass body of the valve, then this O ring is the problem.
On the valve, the two smaller O-rings on each side the valve look like #209 O-rings I believe--Home Depot has those. But O-ring numbering isn't consistent from company to company so bring the O-rings with you to be sure you get the right ones. And again, not only does the OD have to be the same but so does the thickness. An O ring that is 1/32 smaller will still leak. If the O rings on the left and right side of the valve are the wrong size or thickness, then the shower head will drip.
For Grohe valves, there's also an O-ring on the shaft and one inside the nylon body that the shaft goes through on front brass plate. I didn't measure those. But they are common sizes so they be found at home improvement stores also. The nylon bearing has to be taped out from the front of the housing in order to change the inside O ring. That O ring is important so don't overlook changing it. Tap the nylon bearing out slowly, taping a little all the way around. You'll have to insert a screw driver or a flat tap into the valve shaft to reach the nylon bearing, so take your time. If that bearing gets messed up, you'll have to buy a whole new valve body. If the leak is coming down the valve shaft, then it's because of these two O rings.
Anytime one of these valves that has been installed for a few years is taken apart, all of these O rings should be replaced. The O rings should be lubricated before installing them. A good silicone lube is the best. Some petroleum based greases cause O rings to fail. The lube helps the ring stay in place when it's being installed and to seat properly.
New valves can also leak because of an O ring's failure to seat. You just have to work with the O rings until they are all correctly seated and positioned. I had to replace side o-rings in brand new valves before they would seal properly. Not everything is plug and play with these valves.



Grohe does not tell you that the source of the leak is probably the Valve cover, which has a built in seal that goes bad, and that if you replace this valve cover, it will stop the leak.
You should only purchase the pressure balance cartridge, if the cartridge itself goes bad, otherwise you are wasting your money with this purchase.
I purchased the cartridge, and it did not stop the leak, until I replaced the Valve Cover, so the cartridge was not needed at all.


Replace this Grohe Cartridge “Pressure Balance Valve cartridge” with included Silicone Grease on O-Rings and it fixed the leak.
Note that this kit comes with a Stop Ring (butterfly wing shape) to install on cartridge shaft as instructed, to avoid excessive force on cartridge at end of course.











Then you have to shut off the main supply to the house, disassemble the fixture and hope you can get the rack back on the pinion so you can have water in the house. Once you do that you can get the water to shut off, but the cartridge is weakened and it will happen again until it's replaced.
Last time this happened our house-sitter did it while we were out of the country and she had no idea what to do. The plumber wouldn't come out right away so she had to repeatedly turn the main supply to the house on and off when she needed water. Not to mention all the water wasted.
I don't want to cut the tile out and do all the work necessary to put a different fixture in so I keep buying these awful cartridges. Maybe they are OK in other fixture designs that don't have much of a lever on the handle so it's not as easy to get a lot of torque, but in our fixture they have been a disaster.


Integral stops come with the valve and the valve is not made anymore. Choice is 1) pack (i.e. add teflon) to threads
or 2) put in new valve. Going with Kohler this time.
Grohe parts installed when house buit in 1998/99 starting to fail.
U. S. plumbers don't like to mess with European hardware.





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